May 2, 2024
In Ávila: day two
You’ve already seen what was the most interesting part of today, the start of the procession from the cathedral back to the hermitage. By the time I was done watching the giants, big heads and dancers shimmy out through the cathedral gate it was nearly time for lunch. Rachael found today’s prize for us, the restaurant de Cine, a restaurant that’s sited in what was apparently previously a movie theater.
It’s definitely our favorite of the three restaurants we ate at in Ávila, and one of our favorites of the whole tour so far. We loved the atmosphere in particular - warm, comfortable, and animated. Nearly every table had one or two children seated at it, all well behaved and well cared for by their families. The food was good to, so it was an all around winner.
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Later in the afternoon Rachael went off by herself for a hike, largely following the walk along the river I took yesterday but continuing much further before turning back. She spoke very enthusiastically about it when she returned, and probably enjoyed it the most of any hike she’s taken since Zafra.
Video sound track: For Free, by Joni Mitchell
It’s too cold to get out on the bike still and I’ve had my fill of walking for a few days so I decided it was the right time to see the inside of the cathedral. I went over in mid-afternoon but quickly turned back when I saw the steady stream of tourists entering and exiting and the long line at the ticket window. I returned around six, an hour and a half before closure, and the situation was much better. No line, few other visitors, and quiet enough to provide a conducive atmosphere for appreciating the place.
Somehow I continue to be a few days behind, so I’m going to leave it here. I’m not even going to caption anything! But here’s a nice link about the place in case you’re not sure how to find one for yourself. And here’s a very brief extract of highlights from it, in case you don’t have time for more:
The cathedral was built in the late Romanesque and Gothic architectural traditions. It was planned as a cathedral-fortress, its apse being one of the turrets of the city walls. The Cathedral of Ávila is considered by its age (12th century), along with the Cathedral of Cuenca, as one the first two Gothic cathedrals in Spain. It shows French influences and great resemblances to the Abbey Church of St-Denis, the first European Gothic church.
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