In Almeria: Day 5, Part 1

March 29, 2024

In another day that feels too full for a single post, this one begins with Rachael waking me up to pronounce that there’s another procession unfolding beneath our window. It’s the crucifixion procession, one I knew was in the schedule but discounted for ourselves because I knew we’d never rouse ourselves to go witness a procession that begins at 5 AM and ends two hours later. If all it takes is getting up, putting some clothes on and staring out the window though, of course we’re in.

Unlike the others, this is a technically simple and mostly silent procession. There’s a single Paso of the crucified Christ, but none of the other standard components - no penitents, no band, no mourning women in black. Instead it’s the single Paso and its bearers, preceded by a huge number of followers.

There are two other components though. There’s a loud speaker pulled along with the procession, to broadcast the narrative from one of the digitaries accompanying the Paso. And there’s a second Paso, but not one that’s part of the procession itself. It’s Mary’s, that’s been brought to the open doorway of Santiago’s church for the processionist to observe and honor. This is apparently the focal point the Paso - everyone stops to honor Mary as they pass by, and the procession stops here for a long time while the narrator delivers an extended speech or sermon and then leads everyone in song. And then the crowd turns silent and starts moving again, straight down our street on their way to the cathedral.

After the last of the participants have passed, a team of men pushes Mary back into the church and its doors close.

This is the view ahead of the processiom. These are all the participants leading the Paso, and they’re stopped here listening to the narrator.

The procession stops at the door to Santiago’s church, where Mary’s Paso has been brought to the doorway.

On the move again, the eerily silent procession continues down the street, bound for the cathedral.

Mary’s Paso is returned to the interior of the church. Last night I wondered why the doorway to the church was left open and that people wandered in and out during the lead up to the procession. It’s to get a close-up view of this Paso, I imagine now.

There’s rain and wind in the forecast again for today, but this morning looks pretty good. Blue skies greet the day, the rains aren’t due to arrive until around two, and for the first few hours at least the winds are quite mild. Rachael’s plan is to hike a new route west of town that I helped her draw up last night, and I’m biking west of town also, back to the wetlands past La Serena. After that, the plan is that we’ll meet at 2 at a waterfront pizzeria Rachael’s made a booking for.

Rachael has a rewarding hike - a 13 miler by the time she makes it back to the apartment after lunch - but it’s not exactly the route she had planned. Even though it’s named and mapped as a walking route on RideWithGPS, there’s a discontinuity in it when she comes to a spot where the trail disappears at the base of the cliffs. So she improvises and continues west, finding a different way to cross the highway and a different trail that eventually hooks into her mapped route.

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I’m going back to La Serena partly because it’s the best choice for today’s conditions. I’ll be biking into modest winds on my way west, and by the time they pick up for the day I’ll be homeward bound - or actually, pizzeria bound.

The other reason I’m going back though is because it was such a rewarding birding destination last time. I wasn’t there as long and didn’t go as far into the refuge as I liked, so I’m going back and allowing more time today. I’m starting earlier and won’t tarry along the way looking at things I’ve seen already anyway. I anticipate a nice ride and expect to come away with a few new birds.

I was right about it being a nice ride, and I enjoy biking through the refuge looking at the various old stone structures wondering what their history was. New birds though? Pffft. Nothing but a big goose egg, though it was nice to get a fresh look at some old friends.

Another slender-billed gull. So obvious, now that I know what to look for.

Mysterious ruined structures are scattered across the landscape.

A much better look at a red-crested pochard.

This old tower needs a restoration project before it’s too late.

Back for another encore anppearance, the ever popular black-winged stilt.

Oh. We already saw these structures. Oh well - they’re interesting from this angle too.

I catch up with Rachael on the waterfront about a quarter mile from the restaurant. We touch base briefly and then I take her rucksack from her and bike ahead so I can get the bike locked up. I’ve got her rucksack because she’s been carrying my lock in it for me for the last 13 miles so we’ll have it at the restaurant. I’m not carrying it myself because I don’t have a place for it unless I want to take a pannier with me. Thanks, Rocky!

Our meal at the pizzeria is OK enough, but certainly nothing like the memorable feast we enjoyed yesterday. Nevertheless it was nearly as expensive.

When we step outside the restaurant after our meal we’re both shocked by what’s happened to the weather over the last hour. The wind is back in full force again, the sky looks frighteningly gloomy, and it feels like the sky could open up at any minute. I take the key from her and race home, wishing her the best; but she’s a fast walker, especially when she’s got the motivation she has today, and she arrives only a few minutes after I do.

And then we wait, because there’s more day yet to come.

This looks totally different than it did an hour ago when we entered the restaurant.

Yow. It’s almost shocking how quickly conditions have changed. I had been planning to stop by the bus station to validate that there will be no problem taking the bikes to Granada, but I change my mind and decide to head for shelter.

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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 501 miles (806 km)

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