June 11, 2024
In Abergavenny: Three Castle challenge
If today’s ride goes well for me, we can thank Polly Low for inspiring me to take the challenge. On the other hand, I’ll know who to point the finger at if it ends ignominiously. Why? Polly passed on this video in a comment recently after we gave some business to that Greggs back in Newport. It’s impossible not to be inspired by the vision of trekking 28 miles in a single day, visiting and taking sustenance at all 32 Greggs storefronts in Newcastle upon Tyne. A staggering achievement, and I defy you to watch the video yourself without feeling roused to look around and find some great challenge of your own to tackle, as I did.
Unfortunately, when I study the map of Abergavenny and its surroundings I find only a single Greggs listed. Not much challenge there, even for an old guy. So I dig deeper for other ideas and find that while it’s nearly a wasteland Greggs-wise, it’s a true castle hotspot. There are nearly a dozen castles within a twenty mile radius of Abergavenny, not counting ones that have been more or less completely demolished so there’s little remaining to view.
I’m not doing a dozen in one go - I imagine if I mapped out an itinerary that picked them all up it would be 150 miles or more; and there’s no point trying to see the ones in Usk and Raglan because we’ve just done that; and we’ll be in Hay tomorrow so that’s off the list for today too. Also there’s the complication that the day starts out rainy so we’re staying in the apartment this morning and going out for lunch so I’ve only got at most four hours of ride time available. And there’s that old guy thing to factor in too.
So, not the dozen then. Three though looks like the sweet spot for the day, the castellar trio east of town that look like a natural grouping: Y Castell Gwynn (the White Castle), Skenfrith Castle, and Grosmont Castle. Three castles, 35 miles, 3,500’ of elevation gain in 4 hours. I can do that.
And Rachael could too, if she wasn’t taking the day off from any significant activity because her foot is bothering her. She’s happy to stay around in the apartment giving her foot a break and then looking at some castle photos when I’m back.
It’s just turning four when I leave. I’ll need to keep disciplined if I want to complete the loop and make it back before it starts getting too dark in some of the narrow, hedgerow lined roads I’ll likely find myself on. The ride gets off to a poor start though when I’m halfway up the first hill of the ride - a 12 percenter that starts about five blocks from the apartment. I’m starting to get views so I feel in the back of my shirts for the camera. It’s not there.
I can hardly do this ride without the camera, so I groan, curse myself out, and then turn around and start coasting back home. Once I’m there I lean the bike against the wall and am just about to open the door when for some reason I remember I’m wearing my coat and didn’t think to check its pockets. I’ve had the camera all along.
So, a poor start - an extra mile, an extra climb my knees didn’t need, and fifteen minutes gone from my time window.
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After that false start things pick up. Ten miles into the ride I come to the White Castle, leaving in my wake the first three of the nine climbs my Garmin lists for the ride - that first 12 percenter I did half of twice; and then another like it; and then a 17% monster that encourages me to take a brief walk. Plus a couple other climbs too short to get listed but that still edge up into the 10-12% range. It’s not quite like making it through your first ten Greggs encounters but it feels like a milestone.
I’ll save some time here and steal some words from Cadw, the Welsh Government’s historical environment service.
White Castle is the best preserved and most imposing of the trio of Monmouthshire fortresses known as the ‘Three Castles’ – which includes Grosmont and Skenfrith – built to control the border. Originally constructed from wood and earth, a series of renovations transformed it into the significant defensive structure we see today. Its medieval name might derive from the white rendering used on its masonry. The large outer ward is as big as a football pitch, while the pear-shaped inner ward sits behind a deep, steep-sided, water-filled moat.
Many of these features are thought to be the work of the Lord Edward (later King Edward I) who took possession of the Three Castles in 1254. The modifications at White Castle, his first Welsh castle, can be seen as a forerunner of the mighty fortresses he would go on to build in north Wales.
It’s a challenge, there’s not much time and I’m behind schedule by about ten minutes, so I’m just there long enough to poke around briefly and take a few photos and I’m off again - to Skenfrith, a village only about six miles on. Another listed climb lifts me up to the top of a ridge looking across the valley to England just a mile or two away, and then I’m dropping down to the village of Skenfrith on the bank of the River Monnow. I make reasonably good time, except for when I pause to admire the impressive landscape along the border and then the intriguing large building down in Skenfrith when I approach it.
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According to Cadw the White Castle is the best preserved of these three castles, but maybe that’s why I found it the least interesting. I was more taken with this one here at Skenfrith and allow myself longer nosing around here. And here’s what Cadw has to say about the place:
One of the ‘Three Castles of Gwent’ (along with Grosmont and White Castle) founded by Norman lord William fitz Osbern in the early 12th century, the remains of Skenfrith we see today are of a later fortress constructed in the 13th century by Hubert de Burgh. The castle’s well-preserved walls surround a circular keep, similar to those seen at Bronllys and Tretower. Built on an earthen mound, this sturdy structure was a last line of defence should the castle fall under attack.
Between them, the Three Castles controlled a large area of confrontational border country between the River Wye and the Black Mountains, with Skenfrith occupying a strategic spot on the banks of the River Monnow overlooking one of the main routes between Wales and England.
Leaving the castle, I take time to stop for a closer look at that odd structure I saw from above. I’m surprised to see it’s the village church, Saint Bridget’s. A really unusual design for a church.
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5 months ago
It’s quarter past six when I leave Skedfrith heading for castle #3. Two down, but I’ve used up over half of my four hours and still have half the miles remaining. I’m feeling more confident that I’ll make it now though - conditions are still good and it looks like I’ll be fine for light. It’s a good thing - I’m at the midpoint, so it’s as short to go forward as to go back.
Still, I didn’t need to come to Grosmont and fail to see the sign for the castle. I’ve climbed up through town and am out the other side when I realize I must have missed it and turn around and coast back. Another wasted ten minutes gone.
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Grosmont is my favorite of the three castles, which is nice - I like saving the best for last. I’m here the longest, and even challenge my knees by walking up the steep stone staircase to the viewpoint on the parapet. And down again, which is more painstaking.
Here’s the Cadw overview:
Grosmont is a member of an illustrious trio of strongholds. Along with Skenfrith and White Castle, it’s one of the ‘Three Castles of Gwent’ built by the Normans to control a key section of troublesome border country. The original earth-and-timber stronghold, build on a gros mont (French for ‘big hill’), was later replaced in stone.
It experienced an active life. Thirteenth-century reconstruction included the gatehouse and circular towers. Remodelling a century later gave Grosmont apartments fit for a noble household, but by the 15th century the castle was in the wars again, besieged in the rebellion led by charismatic Welsh leader Owain Glyndŵr.
It’s nearly seven thirty when I finally tear myself away from Grosmont. I’ve still got eleven miles to go and will be back later than I thought so I call Rachael to give her a heads-up so she won’t worry, and say I’ll be home around 8:30 - fine this far north this close to solstice, but the sun briefly breaking through and lighting the fields slows me down; and the last several miles go slower than planned even though they’re all downhill because it’s a narrow rough surface and it’s getting gloomy in the shadows between the hedgerows. It wouldn’t do to overrun my sight distance and take a header from a pothole.
So I don’t make it home until closing on nine, a little later than I’m comfortable with. I like leaving more room for something to go wrong than this. Mission accomplished though. Thanks for the nudge, Polly!
Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 2,060 miles (3,315 km)
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