Vallon Pont d’Arc to Alès

September 22, 2024

We Made it Just in Time

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Today was just fine despite our weather concerns. We enjoyed a last breakfast at Couleurs du Sud, and other guests and Marie, our hostess, had a good laugh at our surprise at our experience yesterday. They have all been unexpectedly swimming in the Ardèche. The other couple said June should be the most dangerous month as the river is high but it is actually July and August that are awful because there can be thousands of people on the river. We can’t imagine the chaos, so we checked out some YouTube videos. Yikes!

We regretfully left our superb room and headed out. We were anxious to get into Alès early in the day because of the weather forecast.

It seemed a good idea to get here before 4 PM when all this was to start.

So between the weather forecast, which included rain starting at noon, and the CN being unsure how busy the roads he had chosen would be, we headed out unsure about what the day would bring. Marie was very reassuring about his route, so that was nice. It was a bit busy at the start. We would describe it as moderate traffic. It tapered off quickly though and was never a problem.

For who knows what reason the traffic seemed to be mostly in the opposite direction.

We rolled through small towns and there were some good views but it wasn’t a photogenic day weather wise. No dramatic skies, just dull grey. We were rain free most of the time though, and the rain we experienced was never heavy.

Here we had the road completely to ourselves.

Shortly after this we rolled into Rochegude. We had never heard of it but it was an absolutely beautiful spot. It was worthy of an explore despite the weather!

We felt fortunate to have stumbled on it.

If you are in the neighbourhood this spot is really worth a look.

Shortly after Rochegude we saw this old building which took the chief photographer’s fancy.

Rochegude was definitely a highlight of the day, but before long there was another highlight. Keith spotted an open shop…on a Sunday! in France! and we didn’t pass up the opportunity. The proprietor was another highlight. Excellent English and business was quiet so there was time to chat. She was a treasure of information. Keith suggested she put a Tourist Information sign on her door. That is when she told us she had worked in the tourist industry for 25 years!

From there we just rolled along, and even with the weather it was great to be on the bikes.

Then we were in Alès. This isn’t, as the young woman at the hotel desk put it “a very touristique place”. Still, given the weather it was the right decision to take two days to get to Uzès. It started to pour right after we arrived and we sat under an umbrella and had a quick lunch while we booked a hotel. Then when the rain let up we went for a bit of a wander.

This intrigued us. It is the remains of coal mines. It looked like a mini volcano.

Lots of mid rise buildings here that look like they went up in the fifties.

It looked like it would be interesting but it was closed.

I was working on the translation of this when the most lovely young couple came and took over. Closed due to the abysmal weather forecast.

There is a big engineering school here that this young man Anas is attending. His beautiful girlfriend is visiting from Brest.

As we were really enjoying our visit with the young people, the rain and the thunder started. We headed back to the hotel, with only a stop in a Taco joint that is attached for a quick and easy dinner in the room. That was another great encounter with an engaging young person. He even threw in extra fries.

Heading for the hotel in full Goretex. Bikes are cosy and dry in the room with us. We are staying at the Hotel Campanile. It is the white building in the background.

It is thundering away out there and absolutely pouring with rain, but we are snug, safe, warm and happy. Tomorrow promises much better weather.

Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 844 km (524 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesYour day sounds a lot less dangerous than yesterdays'. Glad you mostly missed the rain.
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2 months ago

Kathleen ClassenI can’t believe how hard it is raining and the thunder continues. We are happy to be inside!
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2 months ago

Anne MathersI love when it pours rain at night and we are warm and dry in a cozy room. Often bodes well for blue skies in the morning.
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2 months ago