September 21, 2024
Vallon Pont d’Arc
We Survived the Rapids!
Oh my goodness! Only half jokingly I am delighted to report that we are alive. We decided today we would have a full day off the bikes and float down the Ardèche, looking up at the Pont d’Arc. So after a good sleep in and a delicious breakfast we were on our way, the trip arranged by Marie, our hostess.
We opted for the mini tour which meant about two and a half hours on the water. Thousands and thousands of people do this every year. We are boaters, I was a life guard. How hard could it be? What could go wrong? Thank goodness we both love a good adventure.
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In our heads we had pictured a float down the river similar to the float down the channel between Skaha and Okanagan Lakes in Penticton. For those who haven’t done it, that is a lazy float, often done on a tube, usually with beer attached. Our first hint that today might be different was the detailed description of what to do if you capsized. Float on your back, protect your head from the rocks, go down feet first, try not to lose your paddle. Then there was the description of how to approach and which side to take of each of the rapids. Rapids????
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Off we went, a flotilla of three double kayaks. The other two couples were from Germany and had large dogs with them in the bow. We started first and waited for them after the first set of rapids, which were actually fairly tame. At the second set of rapids though, one of the couples hit a rock, launched the poor pooch into the river and capsized the boat, which floated away from them along with one of the paddles. They managed to clamber out at a fairly inaccessible point, with dog but without boat or paddle, leaving the rest of us to attempt a rescue of sorts. Fortunately for them another couple came along with obvious kayak skills and competently got the boat and paddle to them. Sheesh! Then we watched as they negotiated out of the spot with a very unhappy dog.
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Next set of rapids we were ready and sailed through. Good luck I think, not good management. Unhappy dog couple were trying to portage. Eventually we lost sight of them and their friends altogether.
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The views were tremendous, but each time we started hearing rushing water we started to tense and plan our approach. Rapids number three were so exciting a photographer was there to catch the action…same deal as Ventoux but you are travelling fast and scared!
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Ah, and then the next to last set. Somehow we managed to get ourselves completely and utterly stuck on a rock in the middle of the rapid. It was crazy. It was also karma as we had been amused by a couple stuck on a rock a few minutes earlier. It wasn’t amusing when it was us, let me tell you. I have a huge respect for water and when you are stuck on a rock, surrounded by rocks and the water is so strong I couldn’t even get my paddle in to push it is not comfortable. We tried everything! We rocked the boat. Keith used his paddle as a lever. We shifted our weight. I kept trying to help but there was the very real possibility I would lose my grip on the paddle the current was so strong. I kept trying though and sure enough the current ripped the paddle right out of my hands, even though I was holding on as hard as I could. At this point I was appalled. Then I realized I didn’t see the paddle floating away, as incredibly fortunately it too was stuck under the boat and on the damn rock. I retrieved it VERY carefully. We were stuck at least ten minutes. A very long ten minutes. What got us off? Would you believe another kayak ran into us at speed and that dislodged us? Unfortunately that was a Dad and daughter (maybe 10) and as we careened down the river, paddling our hearts out, I could hear her screaming in real fear, poor thing. Obviously no pictures of this little drama.
Once at the Pont d’Arc the water became the quiet paddle we had pictured. Still, I have never been so glad to get out of a boat in my life. We were never in any real danger we knew (there were lots of people onshore enjoying the chaos) but when still stuck on the rock after ten minutes I was starting to worry we would have to be rescued. Keith was never worried. He just wanted to stay dry.
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The CN is resting as I write this and we are already starting to laugh. One thing I am extremely grateful for is the decision to use a double kayak. If I had been on my own I would have been terrified. My big guy had my back thank goodness. He is also taking me for a drink to calm my nerves. Seriously though, I keep bursting into irrepressible giggles. It was that kind of a day.
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Definitely not like Rick Steves paddling down the Dordogne.
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