Vallon Pont d’Arc

September 21, 2024

We Survived the Rapids!

Oh my goodness! Only half jokingly I am delighted to report that we are alive. We decided today we would have a full day off the bikes and float down the Ardèche, looking up at the Pont d’Arc. So after a good sleep in and a delicious breakfast we were on our way, the trip arranged by Marie, our hostess.

We opted for the mini tour which meant about two and a half hours on the water. Thousands and thousands of people do this every year. We are boaters, I was a life guard. How hard could it be? What could go wrong? Thank goodness we both love a good adventure.

These weren’t exactly performance craft. Very sturdy.

In our heads we had pictured a float down the river similar to the float down the channel between Skaha and Okanagan Lakes in Penticton. For those who haven’t done it, that is a lazy float, often done on a tube, usually with beer attached. Our first hint that today might be different was the detailed description of what to do if you capsized. Float on your back, protect your head from the rocks, go down feet first, try not to lose your paddle. Then there was the description of how to approach and which side to take of each of the rapids. Rapids????

Ready to launch, after the safety lecture and trying to remember which side to take the rapids.

Feeling relaxed and happy to be on the water.

Off we went, a flotilla of three double kayaks. The other two couples were from Germany and had large dogs with them in the bow. We started first and waited for them after the first set of rapids, which were actually fairly tame. At the second set of rapids though, one of the couples hit a rock, launched the poor pooch into the river and capsized the boat, which floated away from them along with one of the paddles. They managed to clamber out at a fairly inaccessible point, with dog but without boat or paddle, leaving the rest of us to attempt a rescue of sorts. Fortunately for them another couple came along with obvious kayak skills and competently got the boat and paddle to them. Sheesh! Then we watched as they negotiated out of the spot with a very unhappy dog.

Approaching the rock, out of control and at speed.

About to collide. If I was the dog I would have been very unhappy at this point. I hope the pooch was a water dog.

Everyone in the water. I asked the fellow giving the safety talk if people often end up in the water. All the time he said, with a Gallic shrug.

Experienced kayakers on a rescue mission.

Next set of rapids we were ready and sailed through. Good luck I think, not good management. Unhappy dog couple were trying to portage. Eventually we lost sight of them and their friends altogether.

I think everyone felt a sense of relief when they got through and remained dry.

The views were tremendous, but each time we started hearing rushing water we started to tense and plan our approach. Rapids number three were so exciting a photographer was there to catch the action…same deal as Ventoux but you are travelling fast and scared!

I am going to check our photo out tonight.

We actually climbed out for a bit after this, hoping to see our companions, but gave up after ten minutes or so.

Ah, and then the next to last set. Somehow we managed to get ourselves completely and utterly stuck on a rock in the middle of the rapid. It was crazy. It was also karma as we had been amused by a couple stuck on a rock a few minutes earlier. It wasn’t amusing when it was us, let me tell you. I have a huge respect for water and when you are stuck on a rock, surrounded by rocks and the water is so strong I couldn’t even get my paddle in to push it is not comfortable. We tried everything! We rocked the boat. Keith used his paddle as a lever. We shifted our weight. I kept trying to help but there was the very real possibility I would lose my grip on the paddle the current was so strong. I kept trying though and sure enough the current ripped the paddle right out of my hands, even though I was holding on as hard as I could. At this point I was appalled. Then I realized I didn’t see the paddle floating away, as incredibly fortunately it too was stuck under the boat and on the damn rock. I retrieved it VERY carefully. We were stuck at least ten minutes. A very long ten minutes. What got us off? Would you believe another kayak ran into us at speed and that dislodged us? Unfortunately that was a Dad and daughter (maybe 10) and as we careened down the river, paddling our hearts out, I could hear her screaming in real fear, poor thing. Obviously no pictures of this little drama.

Once at the Pont d’Arc the water became the quiet paddle we had pictured. Still, I have never been so glad to get out of a boat in my life. We were never in any real danger we knew (there were lots of people onshore enjoying the chaos) but when still stuck on the rock after ten minutes I was starting to worry we would have to be rescued. Keith was never worried. He just wanted to stay dry.

Finally calm waters and beautiful views, as imagined.

The CN is resting as I write this and we are already starting to laugh. One thing I am extremely grateful for is the decision to use a double kayak. If I had been on my own I would have been terrified. My big guy had my back thank goodness. He is also taking me for a drink to calm my nerves. Seriously though, I keep bursting into irrepressible giggles. It was that kind of a day.

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Rich FrasierOh my! Glad you survived!! FWIW, we had a very similar experience to this many years ago in Belgium on the Lesse river near Dinant. Everything that happened to you happened to us, except that we had dragged some friends into coming with us. So we felt responsible as well as terrified. It was an epic day that gave us a story to tell that has lasted a lifetime. I'm laughing right now as I think back over it. It's somehow comforting to know that European safety standards haven't really changed in 40 years!
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3 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesNot a hope in a million years that we would EVER do this. Glad you made it without more disaster that a stuck kayak.
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3 months ago

Keith ClassenTo Rich FrasierSheesh Rick - you could have warned us!
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3 months ago

Susan CarpenterWhat an epic adrenaline adventure! A Classen Classic. Glad that you got off the rock - with your paddle - and stayed dry! Enjoy your drinks and give a toast to the Ardèche - it's one thrill after another.
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3 months ago

Keith ClassenHi Susan - a little more adventure than we were expecting. The direction we were given is to approach the first 2 rapids on the right side and the 3rd on left side. No mention of rapids 4, 5 and 6.
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3 months ago

Anne MathersOMG, what an adventure! That’s a far cry from the leisurely drifting and drinking we saw from a distance. I’m laughing as I read how you got off the rock, but seriously, that was downright scary. The photos of the two heading for the rock is pretty hilarious (not for them!) too. As Rich says, you have a story for life. I look forward to the play-by-play when you get home. Meanwhile, enjoy that drink and keep the rubber side down. 🤪
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3 months ago

Patrick O'HaraHa ha. Great story. One you'll soon not forget.
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2 months ago

Joy DavisGlad you’re okay — what an adventure!
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2 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesWe will never do it again!!!!
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2 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Patrick O'HaraWe will be telling the story for years. Every time I think of it I start to laugh.
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2 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Joy DavisWe will be telling the story for years. We have moderate kayak skills but we certainly aren’t knowledgeable about how to read rapids. These weren’t performance kayaks either. The concern we had was we were jammed on the top of the rock at 90° to the current. As soon as the other kayak hit and dislodged us we had to get the kayak facing downstream in a hurry. Two people paddling with a purpose!
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2 months ago

Rachael AndersonHow scary! I’m so glad you made it through safely. It’s good you can laugh about. I’m really bad at steering a kayak so we always use a double kayak.
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2 months ago

Bob KoreisMon dieu! If that was the "mini tour", how stressful would an all day have been?

Definitely not like Rick Steves paddling down the Dordogne.
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2 months ago