Valence to Viviers

September 17, 2024

Blown Down the Rhone

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This morning we enjoyed an excellent breakfast at our hotel, both of us talking about how much we enjoy this part of our day. It is just such a lovely time to relax. Even so we were out the door in record time leaving at 9:30 AM.

We weren’t even the last bikes to leave the bike room!

Crossing the bridge in Valence. A safe bike lane.

The ride was excellent. A well marked route, lots of other bike touring folks, primarily downhill and the ever present tailwind. We spun along and enjoyed the well travelled route. There was absolutely no drama.

Beautiful old building. Very secure front door.

We wondered if there had been an oil spill here.

Laying more booms on the other side as we cross the bridge.

A beautiful bridge to cross. One of many today.

Dog walker and these pooches were having a blast.

We met the lovely Ursula who was touring on her own, and the three of us leap frogged all day. Komoot was playing tricks on her and the CN was able to get all of us going in the right direction.

Another bridge and this was pretty narrow with the panniers.

Caruso!! Crowing his heart out at his hens.

This was a suspension bridge. Keith rode, I walked, or more like tiptoed. It was swaying in the wind and I was happy to get across.

In places the route was flat and straight and with the tailwind we were making excellent time. However, just when we would really be rocking along we would come to barriers for no apparent reason…although as I write this, it occurs to me maybe they were there to slow us down!

Clearly enough room but we weren’t going to rock through at speed. Catching a pannier on one of these could be a tour ender.

There are always unexpected sights and interesting things to look at.

These things are huge when you are up close. Four reactors.

How would you like to be the maintenance person who climbs this? The number of cars and buildings associated with this complex was immense.

We came to the classic route barée. We once more decided to take a chance, and were once more rewarded with success. This one caused some concern though as we went for several kms with the wind until we reached the end and it wouldn’t have been a fun return trip in the other direction if we were forced to turn around. As it turned out, there was zero construction happening, just a kilometres long line of red and white barriers. Clearly something is planned, but they haven’t started yet.

Barriers and a gravel track on our right for kilometres.

At the end and looking back. Evidently they started work yesterday. We celebrated our successful way through with lunch in a little park.

We approached beautiful Rochemaure and met Ursula again here. Keith once more rode across the famous bridge while Ursula and I walked.

I am not a big fan of heights or swaying bridges.

Then it was easy breezy (literally) riding the rest of the way to Viviers.

We arrived in Viviers at 3 PM and what a spot it is. It is an ancient walled town that dates from 475 if the tourist literature is accurate and is truly remarkable. Most of the days elevation probably came hiking to our Chambre d’Hôte. The CN was getting a bit frustrated trying to find it but eventually we had success.

First glimpse of Viviers from across the river.

We actually carried the bikes up these stairs after I sat on them for awhile as Keith wandered around unimpeded.

Our Chambre d’Hôte. Note the not extensive signage.

From a lookout adjacent to the Cathedral.

Our chambre d’hôte is also unique. There is nothing that even approaches square or level anywhere in this building. The decor is eclectic and the view from the window gives me vertigo. In short, it is great.

Our room. I cannot begin to think how to describe how crooked everything is. It is such a privilege to be in such an ancient building.

Looking down from our window. It is a long way down.

Today's ride: 74 km (46 miles)
Total: 654 km (406 miles)

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Jacquie GaudetOn my first trip to Europe, travelling with backpack and rail pass after finishing university, I visited Dinkesbuhl in Germany, where I read or was told that nothing was straight, everything was deliberately crooked, because things that were straight were "the work of the Devil". Having graduated in Civil Engineering, I think that was the excuse of mediaeval builders who hadn't constructed proper foundations.
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3 months ago

Kathleen ClassenYou could be right! I can’t imagine the nightmare of renovating, especially laying tile.
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3 months ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a wonderful day!
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3 months ago