St. Martin de l’Ardeche to Vallon Pont d’Arc

September 19, 2024

A Top Ten Ride

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What an amazing day. It started with a great breakfast in the Hotel Bellevue in St. Martin. It was a fabulous place to stay. We highly recommend it. The room was perfect, the people were so friendly and helpful, dinner in the restaurant last night was another over the top meal in France. The supports for the bridges to Aiguèze are built right into the front of the hotel.

The patio in the background is where we enjoyed our wine last night.

On the way out of town we made a quick stop at tourist information to say good bye to Isabelle, who was so helpful yesterday. She kindly took a picture of us together.

Isabelle and I. Such a wonderful encounter.

This was a top ten ride for sure. There were eleven belvederes (look outs) in 29 km and we stopped at every single one. The views were magnificent and the road was too. It has been recently resurfaced and was so smooth. We followed the same track Susan Carpenter and the Maher-Wearys took last year. I reread their entries this morning and it made me excited. They did an out and back but we carried on to Vallon Pont d’Arc. This was such a beautiful ride.

It was spectacular from the start. About 800 metres of climbing, but always a manageable grade.

The road was fairly lightly travelled and we were all there for the same reason. The views.

Kayakers and canoes were prevalent down below.

Then there were goats! Loved this because it brought traffic to a standstill and it was fun. Grampies are right though…I can see how the smell of goats could put one off goat cheese. They were very aromatic.

This must be common as Susan and the Maher-Wearys saw them too.

These two took a liking to the sweat on Keith’s legs.

At the next Belvedere we took in the views and decided to have lunch. We met Leila and Robert from Munich who have been to Canada. Robert was wearing a Banff tee shirt that caught our attention. A wonderful conversation ensued. Meeting people when you travel is so enriching. It really is.

The other bit of excitement at lunch was the pompiers practicing search and rescue. They stopped for lunch just as we were leaving. These men and one woman were seriously fit. Several had biceps bigger around than I know how to describe. These are the people you want around in an emergency for sure. I was also amused that their lunch attracted a veritable herd of goats. One fellow had to grab one by the horns to get him away from his lunch.

A smorgasbord thought the goats. On a bike tour you never know what you will see.

Then we were at the summit and had a great descent. We stopped part way down for a celebratory beer. I wish we had thought to take a picture. We enjoyed our beer on the patio and when I went inside to pay I felt like I had been teleported to Mexico, the music, the decor, the ambiance.

Trying to take selfies always makes us laugh.

The ride was beautiful all the way into town.

Vallon Pont d’Arc was such a surprise. We were expecting a sleepy village and it is anything but. The cherry on top is our accommodation at Couleurs du Sud. I was torn leaving our beautiful hotel in St. Martin, but this spot is amazing. A private courtyard, a pool, a huge room (the shower is bigger than our powder room at home) and a wonderful host. We made an instant decision to stay another night and set off to explore the town. There is so much to do here one could (and probably should) spend a week. Kayaking, hiking, via ferrata, biking, it is an active person’s spot. We, of course, may simply swan about by the pool tomorrow. We’ll see!

Our room. It is beautiful. We spent time on arrival on our private terrace soaking up the warmth and toasting our good fortune with a glass of wine.

What a wonderful, wonderful day. We are feeling so lucky tonight.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 730 km (453 miles)

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Scott AndersonThis really is a wonderful ride. Rachael and I climbed it 30 years ago on our way back to Paris and were as awed as you sound. It really ranks up with the Gorge d’Verdun in my book. It was later in the fall when we rode, leaves were turning, and across the gorge was the baying of a pack of hunting dogs chasing its quarry.

I’ve wanted to go back ever since, and we were going to do so two springs ago, staying at that same hotel and climbing it as an out and back - I think that’s where Susan got her idea, thinking back on it. Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate for us and we settled for the Nesque Gorge instead.
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3 months ago

Susan CarpenterMy out and back thru the gorge with Steve and Ann was one of the most memorable days of my 2022 tour. So glad you had such a great ride, and wonderful weather to enjoy all the spectacular views
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3 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonHaving done the Nesque Gorge, that isn’t shabby either, but I agree, this was amazing. Hoping your health is galloping along in the right direction now that you have the antibiotics.
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3 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Susan CarpenterWe found your post inspiring which is what made us want to do it. Isn’t CycleBlaze a fabulous community?
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3 months ago

Anne MathersTo Scott AndersonGorge de la Nesque… makes me swoon at the memories of it. That’s worth a do-over any time!
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3 months ago

Anne MathersWhat a great cycle touring day, complete with incredible scenery, a gentle climb and a fun descent, goat kisses and another wonderful hotel to enjoy. The Ardèche is a stunning place that remains etched in our memories but sadly, our 2001 experience here was not great. David had picked up a stomach bug and it was 42 degreeI. He was sick as a dog as we rode through Valon Pont d’Arc and finished at Pont St. Esprit, with his head down the whole way. It just might be time for us to re-visit it.
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3 months ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a great day!
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3 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Anne MathersWhat a shame. It really is worth a return visit. We are leaving to see it from the bottom up shortly. Curious, where did you go after Pont St Esprit? We are leaning towards south then west to keep enjoying this great weather. Rain tomorrow regardless though.
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3 months ago

Anne MathersTo Kathleen ClassenWe rode to Lyon from there.
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3 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Rachael AndersonIt really was. All those people down below drifting down a placid river. We were sure wrong about that!
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3 months ago