Rocamadour to Beaulieu sur Dordogne

October 8, 2024

Following the V87

There was much planning and mapping and thinking and replanning going on last night and this morning. Both of us wanted to go to Sarlat today, but the reality of needing to be in Zurich for the 16th of the month means heading in the opposite direction, even for a couple of days, is probably not the best course of action. We have also discovered that west to east train travel is going to be a little more complicated than we had hoped, and of course the bikes add a further level of complexity. So instead, we pointed the bikes towards Beaulieu sur Dordogne.

We met a lovely couple from Connecticut this morning. There are bikes in the back of that van. They drive from spot to spot and then spoke out. Another way to do it.

A last look at Rocamadour looking mighty fine in the sunshine.

Life is full of surprises. The ride today was fantastic. We were on a marked bike route which made navigation easy for the CN, we had blue skies, warm temperatures and sunshine, and the landscape and villages were wonderful. The day did not disappoint.

Leaving Rocamadour we were on quiet roads. We first climbed out of the village and then dropped down into the valley. After one silly Komoot move (the app directed us to a non existent bridge) the CN switched to Cycle Travel and we were on the marked bike route, the V87, for the rest of the day.

The bar was closed when we rolled through.

What a bike route it is. We highly recommend it. One section of the ride reminded us of the Tarn, complete with overhanging cliffs, river and incredibly scenic villages. The whole ride was wonderful, but this section was particularly great.

We ate our picnic overlooking the river and the valley in a tiny place called Gluges. Our bench was in front of a cute little church in Gluges with a connection to Edith Piaf. She used to worship there and paid to have all the stained glass windows replaced on the condition no one was to know while she was alive. It was fun to stumble on that.

An ancient castle like house, moat and swan across the way.

What a beauty, and look how clear the water is.

This guys tires very much reminded us of our bike tires the other day. Same rocky gumbo. We don’t know where he had been to pick that up, but there was some roadwork near by.

There were cows and sheep and rolling farmland in the next section. We also stumbled on a pétanque tournament. Fun to watch, but the best part for me was the concession stand with cold Orangina for hot cyclists. Keith tells me he is thinking of giving up golf for pétanque. This was a mixed tournament and if I parsed the French correctly, a masters tournament.

A late rose. So big it looked like a peony.

A woman on a bicycle stopped to tell us that these are Blonde d’Aquitane cattle and unusual in the area.

The mamas were huge. The babies were getting big too.

So many lambs. Some brand new. Seems like the wrong time of year for lambs.

Pétanque. The competitors were very serious. It was fun to watch.

Some of these pumpkins were as big as my panniers.

You could probably get this place for a song.

Are they hoping the roof will last one more year?

Chateau d’Estresses, just before Beaulieu.

So, the final surprise of the day. Beaulieu sur Dordogne is beautiful. We hadn’t had high expectations as we didn’t find much online, but as it was the perfect distance for a stop we chose it. It is small with a great atmosphere. We had a good wander and went out for dinner.

Our restaurant. Pizza tonight. It was delicious and the server spoke excellent English.

It was so much larger inside than we were anticipating.

So it was a great day in every way. Tomorrow’s ride has a very high bar to reach. The weather forecast is good though, and we will be on our bicycles, so it will be good, even if it isn’t as amazing as today.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,523 km (946 miles)

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Pierre EhingerHello Kathleen et Keith 🤗.
What a wonderful reporting with awesome pictures.
Reading you is almost being there
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1 week ago

Keith ClassenTo Pierre EhingerThanks Pierre! Better if you were here!
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6 days ago