Pont en Royans to Valence

September 16, 2024

Downwind, Down River and Divine

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Today was a magical day on the bikes. It felt so great to be back on the road this morning. The weather was cool to start but sunny, and promising to warm up. The route was well signed, the navigation was easy and the tailwind was grand. One of those days when everything is going your way.

We said a reluctant goodbye to the Vercors and pointed the bikes west and south. For most of the day we followed our 2019 route in reverse, but everything looked brand new. Funny, but true. I honestly recognized very little, to the extent that I wonder if I should be worried about my brain cells. It was a fabulous ride. We followed Veloroute 63 (La Belle Via) and other than a couple of kilometres through St. Nazaire en Royans which were on a busy D road, we were on a dedicated cycle route all the way to Valence. The bonus in St. Nazaire en Royans was seeing the aqueduct.

Another different butterfly. Similar colours.

I guess people who live here take this stuff for granted but it is impressive for us.

It is hard for me to describe the ride. It was just terrific, was so relaxing and the views and villages were great. We were pushed by the tailwind and the mainly downhill track into Romans sur Isère where I did recognize the cathedral. Phew! A few brain cells are still functioning.

What a beautiful day. The wind really kicked up later.

A great deal of concrete goes into this infrastructure.

Beautiful farm buildings and a bit of Provençal blue.

With a surface that doesn’t threaten to rattle the fillings out of your head. So well done.

We came to the inevitable Route Barée. As usual we ignored but this time realized they were resurfacing the bikeway. Hmmmm. I approached the stern looking man who seemed to be in charge hopefully. He responded with a huge smile and volley of French which I actually thought I understood, but decided to seek clarification. So then in the absolute best charades he told us to just cut through the field to the camion and bon journée. Such a sweetheart. Such a great smile. Many effusive merci beaucoups and we were on our way.

We did need to do a little hike a bike, but it wasn’t a problem.

We stopped in Romans Sur Izère for our picnic lunch, supplemented by a quick run into Albi for chocolate. There was a beautiful waterfront park to enjoy.

Thought we would get a little exercise while eating. These actually made great footrests.

Pedestrian areas are the best thing ever.

Towards the end of the ride we merged with the Via Rhona. In ten minutes we saw more bike tourers than we have seen since we started in Zurich. It was amazing. Build it and they will come.

Trail side companion. Such beautiful creatures.

This was great. When on the D road for a short time, a clearly marked bike lane and as you can see, no traffic for the most part anyway.

I came to this first and it was laying down and really worried me. I actually thought it was a baby for a few seconds. Keith sat it up and then it developed a sort of Chucky personality.

The wind was certainly a presence today. Fortunately behind us 90% of the time. When it was a crosswind it was a bit tricky for me. The CN was fine. Our weather app said sustained winds at 40 kph with gusts to 76 kph. It truly is a bizarre wind but since it is blowing our way it is manageable. I felt very sorry for folks fighting it the other way. I entertained myself a few times by seeing how far I could go without turning a pedal. There were a few climbs but they were the short and steep variety and then on to the main event, flying along the flat with a tailwind.

We arrived in Valence and are very happy with our Hotel de France. Easy secure bike storage (our bikes have friends for the night) and in the heart of town. We have had a good wander and really like Valence. A huge pedestrian area and a great atmosphere. As I write this the wind continues to howl outside. On our walk we had one gust that nearly blew us both off our feet and Keith almost lost his baseball cap. I had a good giggle…it isn’t my favourite of his baseball caps so I wouldn’t have been distressed if it blew all the way to the Atlantic.

There are so many beautiful old buildings.

We stopped in Tourist Information, which can be hit or miss. This time it was terrific. Such a knowledgeable and personable guide with a great sense of humour about the wind.

We are looking forward to tomorrow and being blown further south. We have had the most interesting weather this tour we have experienced on the bikes. The forecast tomorrow is sunny with gradually decreasing winds.

Our Relive ride for today below:

https://www.relive.cc/view/vdvm174Noxv

Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 580 km (360 miles)

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Rachael AndersonI wouldn’t worry about your memory, if I were you. I’m having the opposite happen. We’ll be cycling in an area where we’ve never been before but it looks so familiar that I keep asking Scott if we’ve been before.
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