Lyon to Belfort - Poking Around Europe 9.0 - Switzerland and France - CycleBlaze

October 11, 2024

Lyon to Belfort

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What an interesting morning. We were down in the breakfast room enjoying croissants and cappuccinos shortly after 7 AM. Amazing what a little train anxiety will do for one’s internal alarm clock. We would certainly rather be biking. 

Our train to Belfort was to leave at 9:42 AM and we were at the station an hour early and glad of it. Without Fanny onboard we must have looked like deer in the headlights when we arrived. So many tracks, so many people!  I parked the CN with the bikes and went to find information. Here is what I found. 

Clearly even an hour wasn’t going to be enough for this!
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Keith on bike and people watch down below. People were streaming in and out of the building.
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Obviously we were on our own to figure it out, so I did what I always do, I started asking anyone available questions, from the cleaners to the security guards. Everyone was terrific and twenty minutes before we were to leave Track A popped up and we knew where to go. Fanny had explained yesterday that the French philosophy is not to post the track until twenty minutes before as then it is unlikely to change, but to always be alert for a change regardless. At exactly 9:38, four minutes before scheduled departure they switched us to Track B. Keith noticed the change. The train snuck in virtually silently, behind where we were all standing and there was confusion for sure for everyone. There were other bikes and bike tourers waiting, and everyone made for the bike car, at the end of the train of course, with us at the end of the line. I honestly didn’t see how we would get on when Keith made his second great catch (the first being the track change) and we sprinted to the second door of the car. Easy peasy roll on, and the bikes are resting happily as I write this. I checked for about the fifth time we were on the right train and we relaxed. 

Our happy velos. Keith walked down to investigate how the other cyclists did.
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Standing room only at the other end of the car.
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It was a very crowded train and things didn’t really improve until Besançon when a number of people disembarked, but an equal number of people got on the train. At least that gave me the opportunity to sit next to Keith, which was nice. We arrived in Belfort and started hotel hunting. We don’t usually leave it until day of, but we had checked last night and there was lots of choice so we weren’t worried. We took one look at the Grand Hotel du Tonneau D’Or and we were in. It is stunning. 

You can see I am very pleased about this turn of events. Excellent bike storage too.
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The foyer on our floor.
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Grand staircase and stained glass windows. The property is impeccably maintained and our room is spacious and beautiful.
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We both collapsed for a bit in the room before we went out to explore. Our hotel is listed as one of the things to see in town, with good reason.  It is a beautiful building. The stained glass windows are by master glass artist Jacques Grüber. Never heard of him but his windows are beautiful. 

The Doub River.
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A large pedestrian area with many shops. Even a Galeries Lafayette.
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The three sieges monument.
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Saint-Christophe Cathedral.
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The Hotel de Ville.
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The Citadel. It was cool in the afternoon and we bailed on going to the top. Notice the lion at the base.
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The old town is beautiful.
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We did hike up to Bartholdi’s lion. It is 20 m long and the symbol of Belfort. Bartholdi also designed the Statue of Liberty. Unfortunately the gate to get up close and personal to the lion was locked at 6 PM and we just missed it. 

It is incredibly impressive.
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Rachael AndersonWhat a great statue in a great setting!
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3 days ago
He is magnificent. Belfort is known as ‘The City of the Lion’.
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Views from just below the lion.
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Sunset! Time to get somewhere warm.
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We chose Belfort because we are now well positioned to ride into Zurich with no pressure. It is a great little spot though, and well worth spinning through if you are in the neighbourhood. It is also a great spot to stop for the day. One more fun fact about Belfort, the TGV train cars are manufactured here. 

Today's ride: 5 km (3 miles)
Total: 1,576 km (979 miles)

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Pierre EhingerHi Kathleen & Keith 🤗
What an adventure, struggling with french trains 😂😂.
Whatever you did well, getting through that mess with calm & method.
Nice to see that you loved Belfort, the city where I did my first mechanical engineer school, close to Alsthom Cie (the TGV wagons factory).
Thanks for this journal and awesome photos.
Take care guys
Pierre
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4 days ago
David MathersAgain another successful train 🚆 adventure. Well done you guys…you’re officially SNCF gold medalists 🥇
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4 days ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Pierre EhingerBelfort was a surprise. It doesn’t look like much when you get off the train, but then boom, you get to the old town and it is beautiful! The lion alone is worth a trip to the city. So fun to know you lived here. I think the young women across from us on the train (she got on in Besançon) must be studying engineering. She sweetly asked if we needed the table, we did not, and then she spent the journey doing complicated calculations on graph paper.
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4 days ago
Kathleen ClassenTo David MathersWe are more tired after a day on the train than a big day on the bikes 😂.
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4 days ago
Rachael AndersonI’m so glad to hear your train trip went well! Belfort looks like an amazing place! We have to go go there sometime.
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3 days ago