Penzance to Saint Ives: a beautiful ride along the coast

April 14, 2014

487 metres (1600 feet) up, steepest grade 19%

WEATHER: SUNNY WITH HEADWIND, HIGH 17C

We knew that today's ride would be short, so enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before packing up and heading off toward St. Ives. We circled up from the guest house to the main road out to Land's End, then turned northwest and continued on to a B-road skirting the small town of St. Just. We rode through a series of former tin mining villages with occasional stone ruins of the old tin works along the road. The countryside was open here with green fields, lots of sheep and panoramic sea views. Very nice, especially since there was hardly any traffic. This B-road along the coast used to be the main highway to St. Ives, but now a faster A-road inland via Hayle is the main vehicle route. The wind was right in our faces, but even so, except for a few short steep bits, we were able to cycle all the hills. The turns in the gently rolling road gave us constantly changing vistas that added up to one of the most pleasant stretches that we've ridden anywhere, especially with the very sparse vehicle traffic.

Al with our host Stewart on our departure from Penzance

The terrain was rolling, with grades that were mostly easily manageable

We could look across pastures out to sea to the west

The approach to St. Ives was down a very long steep hill. Luckily we would leave town by a different route, so wouldn't have to cycle up it! We rode down through residential areas, and then the shopping areas to the quayside road fronting the harbour and beaches. We were surprised to find this roadway absolutely heaving with people. It was a struggle to push our bikes through the crowds made up mainly of families with children and groups of young people on spring break. We passed one restaurant after another, most with outdoor seating, and they were all full, with people lined up at the doors. We were ready for lunch, but no way could we imagine trying to shoehorn our way into one of these places—not to mention finding a spot for our bikes. There were lines at all the takeaway joints as well.

Finally, to escape the hordes, we turned up a steep side street away from the water, and immediately the pavement was deserted. We spied a sign for the Mermaid pub and peered inside. It was open but completely empty, and as we looked for a place to lock our bikes, a server came out and kindly offered to park them in their secure garage. We felt really fortunate to have found this restaurant, especially when we tasted the food—crab sandwiches for Eva and bouillabaisse for Al. Everything was delicious, and we were completely mystified to be the only customers.

Crowds along the harbour beach near the centre of St. Ives

After lunch we retrieved our bikes and set off for the Tregony Guest House at No. 1, Clodgy View. St. Ives is built on several steep hills and it was uphill all the way, pushing our bikes through small lanes to reach our destination. The door was opened by a young couple, Charlotte and Gavin, who welcomed us and proceeded to carry our panniers up the three flights of stairs to our large room on the top floor. Lovely people! Our private bathroom was just across the hall, and we had a great view of the town and the harbour below.

The view from the road just outside our B&B in St. Ives

We cleaned up and rested a bit, then went out to walk the narrow cobbled lanes of the picturesque town. We avoided the crowds near the beaches and climbed up a grassy slope to St. Nicholas Chapel with its panoramic views of St. Ives and the beaches north along the coast. Even away from the waterfront, there were more people about than we'd seen anywhere else in Cornwall. This area seems to be holiday central during this combination Easter and spring break.

For dinner we found our way back to the Mermaid pub, on foot this time. It's good we were early because by 6:30 every seat was taken. Tonight we both had lamb in red wine jus--tender, no fat and a huge portion--along with minted potatoes, red cabbage, green beans and cauliflower. The server recognized us, and we couldn't help asking why the place was so full now and so empty at lunch. She explained that they serve dinner year-round, but lunch only seasonally, and today was the first time this year that they were open for lunch. Lucky for us.

The evening light was lovely as we climbed back up to the guest house by another route through different cobbled lanes. Tomorrow will be a day off the bikes to visit pottery studios and galleries.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 194 km (120 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	3
Comment on this entry	Comment	0