July 30, 2023
Ravne na Koroškem to Maribor
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We awoke this morning to steady rain. It was expected. The rain tapped on the windows as we ate breakfast and dark clouds swirled in the sky. As we sat, we hoped that the weather forecast that predicted clearing skies later in the day was correct. Sue exclaimed, 'Let's get an early start to beat the traffic." So, right after breakfast we were off. We donned our rain jackets and rode off under grey skies and a pelting rain.
Last night we decided to get off on an early start, as we expected the road between Ravne and Dravograd to be a busy one. From the Google Earth images that we looked at, it appeared to be quite a busy road. But, being Sunday, the road was quiet and trended downhill and it turned out to be a fine and safe ride after all. We continued to follow the Meza river out of Ravne to where it joins the mighty Drava (Drau) river at Dravograd.
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Once we arrived in Dravograd, we were on the Drava cycle route. This cycle path is 710 km long and runs from Toblach, Italy into Croatia, and, of course follows the Drava River. The Drava River is the sixth largest tributary of the Danube. Meeting the Drava again jogged our memories of our tour in 2016 when we rode from Prague to Venice. We'll never forget it as we went up and over Grockglossner with fully loaded bikes and descended to the Drau (Drava) from Austria. Perhaps the hardest day on a tour we've ever had.
In our experience many European cycle routes do their best to avoid traffic and cars, which is a positive thing, of course. But, they also have a tendency to dipsy doodle all over the place in attempting to route you through the quieter and more peaceful roads; and this dipsy doodling often has its fair share of ups and downs in elevation. Today was a day of ups and downs, but it was also incredibly beautiful and peaceful. You just had to work for it at times.
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We stopped for a break at the only café in Podvelka. The group of men smoking and drinking outside gave us the usual greeting so common in Slovenia. Dobra Dan (Good day). It's such a wonderful common cultural thing that we have noticed about many places in Europe. Whether you are in Italy, Germany, or Slovenia, when you enter a cafe, you greet everyone in the cafe as a group with a buongiorno, a gruß gut, or a dobra dan. It's a wonderful thing to observe, and seems to reinforce community and good faith between strangers and friends.
After our break in Podvelka, we began our big climb of the day. We followed the Velka River upstream, gaining about 250m of elevation through quiet beech and pine forests. The Velka valley was beautiful and water trickled down the mountainside in rivulets which flowed in every direction; and the well-kept houses, gardens and properties were well attended to on this Sunday.
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After a longish day, it was nice to finally near Maribor. The skies sprinkled as we approached town, just light enough to be refreshing but not hard enough to warrant the rain jackets.
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The last few kms of the Drava cycle route into Maribor brought us through the forests just outside of town. There were several downed trees that we had to negotiate.
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Today's ride: 77 km (48 miles)
Total: 495 km (307 miles)
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