Perigueux to Les Eyzies

May 21, 2023

Taking it Les Eyzies

We leave Perigueux in a gentle drizzle. This apartment has been an easy place to stay- close to the centre and everything works. We decide to cut to the chase and train down to Eyzies, in the heart of the area we want to see. The route to the SNCF gare is without complication. Perigueux Gare has two brand new lifts and a brand, spanking new overhead walkway. Sadly, it’s none is as yet operational. It’ll be great when it is. So we are back to the escalier. No worries- we simply tranfer bags to platform C first then bikes, and climb on board the two car train.

It’s a great ride. The guard is very friendly and helps secure our bikes. The trip is sort of like watching a movie because we can see out the front window past the driver and both sides of the train at the same time- all moving at once. It doesn’t take long to reach Les Eyzies and with the help of the friendly guard, we’re soon standing on a deserted platform with bikes and bags.

We cycle into the village and are immediately impressed by a massive overhanging curve of rock face that extends above and along the length of the town. The valley we have come to, was, in prehistoric times, a route for the ice age reindeer, hence the humans habitation; a fast food source right at the back, or front, door.

It’s pleasantly quiet at the moment and we lunch just off the main street near the river.

Once we’ve deposited our bikes and luggage at our hotel, we walk up to the Musēe National de Prehistoire. Before entering we take in the views from the top. They’re definitely, at the risk of clichē, breathtaking.

The museum’s focus is on early human habitation in this area and contains a large number of small artefacts, bones, animal recreations and examples of stone carvings. There are videos showing how flint was worked to create knives and spear heads. The end product of what seems fairly random whacking is a beautifully shaped implement and/or weapon. The science behind the identification of what was a man made tool and something created naturally is quite astounding. The displays show both kinds, juxtaposed, and in some cases it’s difficult to see how they were able to differentiate.

At some point a purely practical lifestyle began to include a different kind of creativity.

So son… there I was, and there was this sabre tooth tiger…

Oh deer. These giant creatures roamed the earth too.

Following our visit, we have a chat to one of the custodians, about our trip, telling him we are Nouvelle Zelandais. He immediately comes out with the words ‘All Blacks’ and tells us he was once a rugby player. Ah rugby! Breaking down the barriers once again.

Each of these shards has to be examined like pieces from a puzzle.

After a walk upstream to view the kayak company, we head back to the hotel and dinner.

Today's ride: 14 km (9 miles)
Total: 1,158 km (719 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	0