May 30, 2023
In Villeneuve-sur-Lot
Stop on the Lot.
Both Fumel and Villeneuve are more towns of industry than other rural towns we’ve seen on the Lot, and it’s quite noticeable when comparing the local vibe with somewhere like Cahors, where the shops seem to be aimed at much more well heeled clientele and tourists. Apart from prunes, and canning of vegetables, Villeneuve has several manufacturing industries. Villeneuve also has some magnificent old half timbered buildings, and the sights of the bridges on the river would be hard to beat, but in the old part of the city, there are also many shops that have closed down and remain empty and there’s a slight down at heel impression conveyed by this. As we cycled in yesterday, we noticed the large number of the usual outlets on the periphery. Clearly these have taken away business.
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There’s also a much more visible Islamic presence hinting that industry and employment have brought people here. We have a chat with the man behind the counter of the Proxi where we go to buy a bottle of wine. He is Tunisian with English, and has two broken arms- from a car crash he tells us. He seems fairly fatalistic about it and says the health system looked after him well.
This morning we breakfast in the sun, already hot, looking out over the river. Our first task is to take my bike down to the nearest bike shop to replace the rear pads. They’ve been bothering me for a while now and have lost much of their stopping power- not good on steep downhills! I was delighted to find I’d packed a pair of pads among our spares so all that was required was to have them fitted- something I could do, but this was the easier option. While this is being done we visit the local market and buy tomatoes, a very nice hard cheese with a bit of bite, some cured ham and the usual baguette. The cheese and ham seller’s face lights up when we tell him we’re from NZ. Rugby! He says with a big grin, telling us he too plays. His prediction for the final of the next RWC is All Blacks v France.
After collecting my Kona we head back for an early lunch and to do a bit of planning for the last couple of weeks of our trip, which we want to spend In Provence. Booking anything always makes one a little nervous- I have to agree with Ann that the advantage of just turning up at a campground with a tent takes away all that booking angst.
In the later afternoon we take a walk to find the local attractions. On the way over ‘our’ bridge we have a look at the Chapel at the end of the bridge. It’s the Chapelle de Notre Dame, built, according to legend in 1289. A statuette of the virgin found at the bottom of the Lot by Quercy boatman was found to have performed a miracle, so they built the chapel. The cathedral is a large red brick building with a dominating tower that is crenellated to look a little like a crown.
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It’s been a work in progress, started in the 14th century and finished in 1937. It has some attractive stained glass windows which date from the 15th century.
Next, we head to the Poste to send off a postcard to our delightful granddaughters. The poste is easy to find, and there are lots of staff ready for action, not behind a window or desk but roving about inside. Soon we have the stamp and a glue stick, but where is the letter box? Turns out it’s outside disguised as a bin.
We decide to finish on a cultural high point by visiting the Gajac Mill which houses the art museum. There’s the permanent collection of landscapes, portraits and still life and an exhibition of Piranisi, an 18th century visionary who worked in pen and ink graphics. His images of prisons of the mind are quite frightening, and his own and ink graphics of gothic ruins have beautiful details of Roman ruins covered in plant growth.
Back at our apartment we wind down with the Sauvignon Blanc - it’s passable though not quite as subtly fruity as Oyster Bay; but then we have to be biased.
Today's ride: 4 km (2 miles)
Total: 1,422 km (883 miles)
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