Back in Bangkok

April 24, 2019 to April 28, 2019

It's Good to be Back

24/04/2919

It's been awhile and I was worrying that I might not be able to find the magic of travel, or that maybe it would refuse to find me, but I needn't have worried.

Bangkok is not a simple or easy city to embrace, but if you give it a bit of a chance it can work its magic on you. The plane touched down early morning, around 0700. I started the journey the evening before in Perth, flying from Perth to Singapore, then another flight from Singapore to Bangkok. The taxi ride in to town took almost as long as the flight from Singapore.

Immigration at Don Muang airport was a totalclusterfuck and I was the last person from our 787 to present at the counter. For some reason they have waived visa fees this month, so it was stamp stamp and inyougo with a friendly hello wave. All immigration entry points should be as simple. And there was no one volunteering their bags for inspection with everyone just walking straight through the "nothing to declare" lane.

I'm staying at GrannyBike Hostel. It is across the corner from the Ratchabophit Wat. The whole neighbourhood is being renovated because the Abbot has just been elected Thailand's "King of Monks." I'm told it's like being made Pope. So the entire neighbourhood, and especially the Wat itself, is getting the once over and the temple is being totally renovated. Which is great because it was very run down. Last time I was here the rats were winning the battle: the street cats wouldn't touch them and they brazenly stood their ground when you tried to pass them on the sidewalk.

It's new sidewalks, potted plants, fresh paint, flags, ribbons and bunting ... and no rats.

The whole neighborhood is getting a makeover.

It is brutally hot here and I suspect that's a key factor for the low tourist numbers in town. And certainly not may international cyclists coming through right now - I'm the only guest at the hostel. I slept through the heat of the day, got up and wandered the Wat, took in a few of my favourite back streets and got a chicken rice from the same stall I frequented 2.5 years ago. I'm tempted to stay a few more days, but I have nonrefundable tickets and a hotel booked in Kunming, so better make do with my short time here...

Ministry of Defence - covers an entire city block opposite the Royal Palace.

25/4/20019

Last night was drinks night. Parn's good friend is a chef and after work he usually rolls up on his cargo bike for his customary late nite dinner and whiskey with Parn at one of their favourite local restaurant/bars. While everyone else drank Thai whiskey with ice, I drank my Singha (with ice) and watched the late nite street scene. The working girls come out in the late evening and one enterprising old lady opposite the bar rents out sidewalk space to people sleeping rough on the streets. Nee and I rode home pillion on the back of the cargo bikes - a midnight dink through the still very hot and humid back streets and alleyways of Bangkok. Seems I now get introduced as and everyone refers to me as "uncle."

Today is bike day. Time to pull the Troll down from the rafters where it's been hanging for over 2.5 years, clean it off, pump up the tyres and see how it rides.

Then tear it down and pack it up for the flight to China.

27/04/2019

Yesterday I went for a test ride to Parn's bike shop through the midday Bangkok traffic. The bike rides beautifully, no problems there. I found the Bangkok traffic invigorating. It certainly keeps you on your toes. The pollution and the heat were a bit more difficult to deal with. Actually, the heat wasn't too bad because you create a bit of a breeze when you are pedalling. All the motorcyclists and cyclists try to rest in the shade when we stop at the lights and we start jostling for position with the cars as the ligts are about to turn green. I bought some gear while at Parn's shop - a new Thai made handlebar bag - a copy of the Ortlieb, but less than half the price. And a frame bag. I'll be taking both of them back with me when I return to Perth.

I brought my Ground Effect's Tardis bag with me from Perth to pack up the Troll for the flight to Kunming. I had the Troll built here 3 years ago in Bangkok expressly for use in SE Asia. It did do a flight from Yangong to Bangkok a couple of years ago. I just couldn't bear (bare?) the thought of riding it back all the way to Bangkok - the road from Yangon to the Thai border at Mae Sot is ugly, especially in the hot season. And at the time, the flight to Bangkok was cheaper than bus fare to the border - and the bike flew boxed for free. On this flight with Air Asia it is bagged and cost me about $50 in excess baggage fees.

Can all of that bike really fit in that little bag?

Two hours later, the answer is yes it can!! That's why they named the bag the Tardis - just like the Doctor's police box, it is much bigger on the inside.

Drippy sweat sodden, I needed a shower and my clothes a good wash by the time I finished.

The last time I used the Tardis bag was on my ride across Australia when I flew my Kuwahara bike from Perth to Brisbane and mailed the bag home. It worked a treat then and I think will do so again. The theory is that the bike gets less abuse when it's in a bag because it's less bulky/ackward than a bikeinbox and one person can easily pick it up by the handle when they need to move it. And an added plus is it's a heck of a lot easier to pack...

You will have to read on to see how the bikeinbag fared on the flight to Kunming. The plane leaves Don Muang airport at 0745 tomorrow morning. It's a 0500 wakeup and taxi ride.

Stay tuned for the next exciting installment in this epic saga.

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