Tremp to Paris, Days 24 - 37 - Colls, Cats & Cowbells in the Spanish Pyrenees 2024

September 28, 2024 to October 12, 2024

Tremp to Paris, Days 24 - 37

Saturday, 28th September

Coll de Nargo

This was our biggest day of climbing to date and one I had been feeling a little nervous about. We were lucky to set out with the same deep ultramarine blue skies that Team Anderson had had. It was a Saturday with the main road out of Tremp having a constant stream of motorbikes coming towards us. It was good to get to the turn off, but we still had quite a number of motorbikes passing throughout the day, shattering the silence. Otherwise we had delightfully empty roads ... again. The climb up! I was grateful the entire way for our E-Bikes making the job so much easier. The gradient on the first mountain was moderate but seemed to keep coming ... for a long way. All I could see as I looked up, was the road continuing to twist and turn above us. We got into a slow steady rhythm and the km’s slipped by finally seeing us at the top. Absolutely breathtaking views. And the views just kept coming for the rest of the day. Something to gasp at around every corner. I had been expecting to be wowed, and no photograph could convey the scope and drama of the landscape we encountered that day. Truly spectacular. Just when we thought our days couldn't get more impressive.

We arrived at Coll de Boixols feeling like the only ones standing on the top of the world, poised to enjoy our picnic lunch in complete serenity and views out the wazoo. No sooner had I unzipped my bag when three motorbikes roared in, followed shortly by a number of roadies. We decamped down the road when the cigarettes came out.

At Coll de Nargo we stayed at Hotel Betriu, the stopover for every motorbike in the area. And the only place in town for dinner that night. Rustic country perfection.

Sunday, 29th September

Sant Llorenç de Morunys

The following day was the biggest climb day we had, and the one I been most worried about leading up to the tour. It had been hard to imagine what a 1500m elevation gain would be like. However, at this point, I was feeling confident enough not to be worried about it, and we set off excited for the day on another beautiful, crisp, clear morning. The climbing started straight away, so lovely on a tree dappled totally quiet road. Heaven.

Turning off the from the main road just out of Coll de Nargo onto another traffic free road.

And there was a lot of climbing, but it didn't seem as challenging as I thought it would be, maybe because it was broken up into a number of climbs over the day. The batteries on our bikes told a different story however, being nearly depleted at the end of the day for the first time. I loved this day, one of my favourites, though hard to pick one above the other of this last week. Every one of them memorable and spectacular.

Monday, 30th September

Berga

More sun to start the next day with. It's a very short ride up and over the mountain to Berga for the night. The city sits at the the foot of the great rock formations of the Serra de Querait and it was a steep drop into town from the BV4241. We chose it as a stopover to break up the ride to Sant Joan.

Crossing a bridge shortly after leaving Sant Llorenç de Morunys.

Tuesday, 1st October

Sant Joan de les Abadesses

Castellar de N’Hug was where I had initially planned to go following previous breadcrumbs, but there was no accommodation available. So we went rogue after being unable to find any information about the C-26 road to Sant Joan. It's the main road to Ripoll and I was concerned it might be as busy as the C-16 sounded to get to Castellar de N’Hug, but again there was very little traffic and it turned out to be a really great route. We took a 10km detour of the C-26 at one stage, which started with some great rollers and finished following a sealed trail through some lovely parklands. Another great day of cycling to chalk up.

Shortly after leaving Berga, there was a long bridge crossing over the Baells reservoir which was spectacular, and fortunately no cars.

To Sant Joan following the very quiet C-26 main road to Ripoll.

From Ripoll there was a paved greenway following the Ter river all the way to Sant Joan.

Sant Joan is a small town with an interesting history. The Monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadesses was the first female monastary of the Catalan counties. The monastery began life as a nunnery, though the nuns were expelled in 1017 – some say for licentious conduct.

The Gothic Vell Bridge across the Ter river in Sant Joan de les Abadesses.

Wednesday, 2nd October

Camprodon

A very short ride continuing on the paved trail from Sant Joan, all the way to Camprodon and just as the weather started closing in. The rain came shortly after we arrived and steadily worsened over the course of the afternoon and night. We’ve been so fortunate, especially after reading many reports of unrelenting rain in northern Europe. Camprodon was totally enchanting, and one of the prettiest villages of the trip, even in the rain.

Thursday, 3rd October

Over the Col d'Ares Pass to Céret

The following day we woke to blue skies again and the morning began with a good look around Camprodon.

From there we headed over the Col d’Ares back into France and onto Céret. The climb up was lovely and didn't feel too challenging. I was expecting traffic but again it was very light. It was a cold morning and with the longest downhill of the trip, we were well chilled by the time we arrived in Prats de Mollo la Preste, our lunch stop.

An important part of our clothing kit are our buffs, so useful for sun, wind, cold, the occasional swarms of small insects and piggeries (a lot of those in Spain).

At the top of the pass there were information boards with some interesting photos. Bruce & I read a book called the Savage Frontier before we came on this trip, which traces the routes over the mountains taken by monks, soldiers, poets, pilgrims and refugees, examining the lives and events that have shaped the Pyrenees across the centuries. So much history in these mountains. It was a fascinating read and brought it to life for us as we were cycling through. Stories in every place.

On the approach to Prats de Mollo, a really beautiful little town that would be great for a longer stopover.

Onto lovely Céret for a couple of nights and a stay in Poppy's, one of the C'bers favourite places from what I've read. Such a genial host and fabulous breakfast spread. Loved our room overlooking the cafés and plane trees below.

The museum of Modern Art founded largely by Picasso is well worth a visit with it's small collection of great paintings (many of them of different depictions of Céret) and lots of interesting photographs bringing to life the times when there was a thriving arts community living here.

Gorgeous plane trees and outdoor cafés. We could imagine Picasso hanging out here surrounded by his cronies.

Saturday, 5th October

Collioure

Onwards to Collioure after having explored the fabulous Saturday market in Céret. Quite a thrill to know we’ve cycled from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. And a shock to arrive at such a busy town thronging with tourists after having been in such semi isolated places. Throughout the Pyrenees we came across so few cycling tourers (if any come to think of it). I put this down to a yet fairly undiscovered touring route only made popular on CycleBlaze by the trail blazing Andersons. But in Collioure we were suddenly amongst many bikes again (and cars). A beautiful seaside town and so different to where we had been.

Sunday, 6th October

Perpignan

Collioure to Perpignan via Argeles-sur-Mer, following the Med on the EV8 on an overcast day. Again we managed to arrive dry. A completely different ride, next to the sea on a totally flat dedicated cycle path. Whilst it was a good ride I was missing the mountains already. The Pyrenees are going to be hard to beat. But as long as we're on our bikes with loaded panniers I'm actually happy to be going anywhere.

Rain settled in shortly after we arrived in Perpignan, so we didn't do a whole lot of sightseeing, except to the train station to scope it out for the following morning.

In Perpignan, a brief wander in the rain but looked to have a lovely old centre.

A train story!

Just as we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves on the success we had had with trains thus far. From Perpignan we had booked a train to Toulouse. Despite having platform stairs to deal with at Perpignan station, we were the first onto the bike carriage and the bikes were hung without a drama. We breathed a sigh of relief, knowing Toulouse was the final stop, and there would be plenty of time to unload. On reaching Narbonne there were alarming announcements that everyone needed to disembark. We established that all the trains to Bordeaux had been cancelled with no indication of when they might resume. A decision was made to cycle to Carcassonne which is about half way to Toulouse, and reassess there as to what to do if the trains were still out of action. We quickly mapped out a route on Komoot hoping it wouldn't take us on any goat tracks (we've learnt our lesson and usually check the komoot map very carefully each day before we set off). Fortunately when we arrived at Carcassonne late afternoon, the trains were running again and an Intercité was about to depart. It was pulling into the station just as we were hauling our bikes up the stairs to the platform. The bike carriage was at the front and the train just kept coming and coming. In our panicked haste, I threw all our bags onto the nearest carriage and Bruce sprinted up the platform with the two bikes. The whistle was blowing, I started freaking (should I jump off with the bags). Fortunately at the last minute the conductor came to his aid, "allez,allez" and helped throw the bikes on. I wasn’t sure I had conveyed to Bruce that we needed to get off at the next stop, and in the rush his phone and wallet were in the bags I had. The train was too long for us to connect, so it was an anxious hour until Toulouse. Thankfully he figured it out! As Scott wrote afterwards, always have a plan if separated and unbelievably his words came to fruition for Rachael and him just a few short weeks later. Thankfully also with a happy ending.

An unplanned trip from Narbonne to Carcassonne but we embraced the chance for a bonus ride and a bit of adventure. As it turned out it was a fabulous ride especially the section before we hit the canal du Midi. The light drizzle added an extra special misty ambiance to the landscape. Beautiful.

Monday, 7th October

Toulouse

A layover day in Toulouse, and the sun is back. We spent the entire day walking and enjoying the sun (warmest day of the trip), the grand architecture and exploring all the tiny ancient streets and small squares. There was so much to look at. It's nickname is La Ville Rose because of the pinkish terracotta bricks that have been used on all the buildings. It's a very vibrant city, alive with young people and cafés spilling out onto all the squares. We would certainly be keen to return, and even more appealing is the convenience of the TGV to Paris with fully assembled bikes and only a four hour journey.

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, 9th-11th October

Paris & Boubiers

And so it was, back to Paris on the TGV InOui and the easiest train experience to date. Straight out of the main doors at Toulouse station onto the train, with the bikes leaning next to us, not having to go on hooks. Thanks again to Susan for tipping me off on this as I was planning to book the Intercité, a seven hour trip with the awkward stairs and hooks to navigate. Arrived in Paris to heavy rain, and a drenching on the 6km cycle from Montparnasse to Saint Lazare stations. A train back to Boubiers, a day to prepare our bikes for their winter hibernation and then back to Paris for another day, before the long haul back to New Zealand. Sad.

Leaving little Boubiers station, can't wait to come back.

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Scott AndersonYikes! Great train story, and so glad it worked out for you. It’s frightening just reading about it.

And thanks for writing this up and sharing it with us. It’s great to get another look at this country and be reminded of one of our best tours. And we should find a way to be in the same place at the same time one of these years!
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3 weeks ago

Robyn RichardsThanks so much for sharing your adventures!
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3 weeks ago

Carolyn van HoeveTo Scott AndersonYour train story was scarier! Seeing one of us pull out of the station without the other would be my worst train nightmare.

We were so close this time, it has to happen one of these years!
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3 weeks ago

Lyle McLeodEvery trip is enhanced by a good train story - after the fact of course! Thanks for the journal and the chance to get your perspective of this lovely part of the world.
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2 weeks ago

Carolyn van HoeveHi Lyle, thanks for all your comments which were fun to read! And it's a big thank you for that fabulous journal you wrote, which I was referencing the whole way, including food recommendations. One of the best meals of the trip was at Lasai in Bilbao. After that meal Bruce said let's just copy them from here on in. A delicious lunch at Pont 9 in Camprodon (I think we even sat at the same table). And we were really looking forward to those scallops at Mala Gana in Sant Llorenc, but the restaurant has closed down (I think we ended up at the pizza place). Hopefully you're planning a 2025 trip!
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2 weeks ago