San Sebastian to Tremp, Days 12 - 23 - Colls, Cats & Cowbells in the Spanish Pyrenees 2024

September 16, 2024 to September 27, 2024

San Sebastian to Tremp, Days 12 - 23

Monday, 16th September

Tolosa

Back to San Sebastián to pick up our bikes and a short ride to Tolosa on a great cycling infrastructure out of San Sebastián. So far the days ahead were looking promising for weather, which was reassuring and finally getting closer to the Pyrenees.

Tuesday, 17th September

Pamplona

From Tolosa to Pamplona, our first big climb and a growing sense of confidence that we'll be able to manage the mountains. Not many photos from Pamplona, but we did enjoy our night there and wandering around the old centre. We had a post ride drink in the Historic Café Iruña, one of Ernest Hemingway’s favourite hang outs. It has a beautiful ornate, art deco interior, and sits in the corner of Pamplona's impressive main square.

Wednesday, 18th September

Sos del Rey Catalico

The next day to Sos del Rey Catalico which I had been very much looking forward to. We finally seem to be leaving traffic behind and the landscape was unfolding around us. It was thrilling to look up and see Griffin Vultures (?) circling above. We had our first taste of a long fun downhill descent, the first of many more to come. The only part of the ride that wasn't as good as the rest of the day, was the 10km approach to Sos on a straight road with a head wind (it seemed interminably long). It was a short steep uphill climb to Sos in the final approach.

Fabulous views out to the landscape spreading in every direction beneath us.

A plaque memorial (!) to the people of the village that died of Covid

Thursday, 19th September

Uncastillo

From there to Uncastillo another of the ‘Cinco Villagaes’ in the region - beautiful, historic villages. It was a quiet ride on a completely traffic free road and a short 23km up and over. I had a big smile on my face all the way down on the 12km descent. Woohoo!

Uncastillo was every bit as wonderful as others have described it. One of my favourite days of the tour. We stayed in the recommended super friendly La Posada de Uncastillo, run by an Argentinian couple, who also manage the bar in the perfect small square. It was a pinch me moment sitting with an evening drink, the medieval buildings glowing in the late afternoon sun and no sound except the echo of voices coming from windows in the narrow medieval streets. The dinner they provided in the hotel was delicious as was the breakfast the next morning. It feels like we've been away for ages. So many different experiences every day. It's a sensory overload!

Friday, 20th September

Ayerbe

We were feeling concerned that Storm Boris might be heading our way and there was rain forecast for our ride from Uncastillo to Ayerbe, but the rain held off and we managed to stay dry. It was another fabulous ride passing by the Cinco Villages on more quiet roads with a number of rolling hills. Dropping down to the Gallego river, we could see impressive cliffs looming in the distance and we were excited for the promise of what might be in store the following day.

Saturday & Sunday, 21st & 22nd September

Jaca

Overnight it was continually pouring with rain and we faced a grim forecast when we woke. We donned every bit of wet weather gear we had and set off - the hotel proprietor looking on with concern. The heavens opened and we were soaked within the first 10kms. Seeking refuge under a flimsy overhang of branches from the torrential downpour on a rather busy road out of Ayerbe, we looked grimly at water pouring down from the cliffs opposite, feeling a hint of trepidation about the 60km still to ride. On we pushed cycling for the next 40km, a few feet away from a raging, roiling torrent of a river that was taking everything in its path, deafening in its roar. The deserted A-1205 road was threatening to become flooded, water pouring onto it from every which way, rocks falling from the cliffs and puddles that were becoming larger bodies of water. I was scared on multiple levels, mostly that our way might be cut off at some point. It was with great relief to finally be on the climb out with the happy sight of Jaca spread out below us. Bruce thought it a fantastic adventure. Aaaagh! So much for seeing the scenery of the dramatic Mallos de Riglos and the towering formations above Murillo, though the dam was memorable ... for all the wrong reasons. Gotta love a day like this for a good story, the post relief laughing, celebration drink and joie de vivre it delivers!

Our first ever coll, never to be forgotten ... hahaha

It's off to the lavenderia with our pile of wet clothing.

Two nights to recover in Jaca and a wander through the fantastic Diocesan Museum situated in the cloister of the Cathedral. A number of medieval mural paintings have been discovered recently in the surrounding areas which have been moved painstakingly, restored and put together again, covering very large walls.

Monday, 23rd September

Torla-Odessa

The sun was shining as we set off for Torla-Odessa and it was a fabulous ride over the Puerto de Cotefablo, biggest climb of the trip so far. We've found a slow, steady comfortable climbing groove that works for both of us and keeps battery use to a minimum . Emerging from the tunnel after the Coll sign, we ran into a group of motorcycle tourers who pointed us in the direction of a bar sitting above us, in the middle of nowhere and highly recommended we should visit. And so we did, enjoying a beer in a bar that was possibly in one of the most beautiful settings. I’m not sure we would have spotted it (but looking back at Kyle & Kirstens journal, I see they posted a photo of it but may have missed noticing there was a beer on offer up there). Arriving in Torla we were definitely feeling like we were in alpine country, the temperature set to drop to 6 degrees celsius overnight and the town alive with the click clacking of hiking poles. Absolutely stunning setting framed by the Ordesa National Park.

We awoke to the sound of cowbells at 5.30am. A quick peek out of our window to see a steady stream of cows plodding down the road to the milking shed. It was an endless parade in both directions for the next hour or so until the final stragglers finally made their way down the street.

The sound of the bells will remain synonymous with this trip through the Pyrenees. Every day the tinkling seemed to be accompanying us at some point in the ride.

Tuesday, 24th September

Ainsa

We set off on a clear brisk morning carefully avoiding the fresh mounds of deposits left behind by the cow train.
Onto Ainsa and another day we had been very much looking forward to, with the promise of a potential canyon and amazing mountain views. And what a day it was!!! There were many exclamations of "wow"!

Looking down on Broto, the first town on the way down from Torla

We got to this point where Kyle & Kirsten posted about the road being closed. To confirm, it's still closed, and still being enforced by park rangers, with a barricade across the road. We took the road they took, and headed up the hill, finding it hard to imagine how much more spectacular it could have been.

Not a bad spot to do a small bike repair on my stand.

Up in the beautiful historic centre of Ainsa

Looking down at the newer part of town where we stayed the night

Wednesday, 25th September

Campo

The next day we had decided to break up the ride to El Pont du Suert with a stop in Campo and glad we did as it was a delightfully quiet little place to spend the night. The short ride from Ainsa on the N260 was a fairly busy highway but had a good shoulder. It was a bit of a slog though, going mostly uphill, into the sun and with plenty of traffic.

Going down to check if the N260 road is open yet. Nope. Still doing roadworks. We'll be going the same way as Kyle & Kirsten

Thursday, 26th September

El Pont du Suert

Setting off for El Pont du Suert, we had confirmed the day before that the N260 that TA took describing an amazing gorge was still closed for roadworks, we set off on the HUV-9601 that Kyle & Kirsten took. We were rewarded with the same amazing gorge experience as they had. There was a bit more traffic than they experienced, so it was tricky to stop and linger. Spectacular to ride through nonetheless, and loved all the tunnel action. The day started off overcast with some drizzle, but as we emerged from the gorge the sun appeared, lighting up the landscape with early autumnal colour. Beautiful. The last 5kms into El Pont du Suert is on one of the major routes into France and the busiest stretch of road that we encountered on the trip. Thank goodness only a short sprint.

Cats reign supreme in this part of Spain. The tourist office still manned by cats

Well one anyway. Some of the staff have been underperforming and laid off. This for Kyle & Kirsten.

The tunnel in the gorge. There were a couple of trucks at our rear so we had to put the gas on.

There's also been a coup in El Pont du Suert. The cats patrol the perimeter of the central square.

And the dogs are being held captive in the apartment above.

Friday, 27th September

Tremp

Another remarkable day of cycling to Tremp. It's one wow day after another. More climbing, more sweeping descents. Empty roads and a variety of landscape. The weather is holding out for us. Lucky! So lucky!

Top of the hill at Port de la Creu de Perves.

Looking down on the town of Perves. Such a fun road to wind our way down on.

We really enjoyed the small town of Tremp, especially our visit to the lavenderia. I laugh to myself every time I use a laundry, thinking about 'Dave's Laundry Drama' - an entry in Jill Gelineau's journal, 'From Munich to Spain to France'. There was a very friendly proprietor in this particular laundry who offered assistance, took over the whole proceedings and told us what time to come back and collect the finished load. We returned delighted to find everything folded and packed away. Later, I discovered a missing sock, one that I was very fond of, and insisted we retrieve it, even though Bruce was happy to relegate it to a lost cause. On returning that evening, I was greeted with much hilarity by the friendly lady, my sock hanging on a chair waiting for collection. It's little encounters like this that can really make for a special day.

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