June 23, 1989
Toddy Lake to Bar Harbor
We awoke today filled with excitement about reaching Bar Harbor and enjoying a delicious lobster dinner and a day off. We went across the road to a small diner for a small bite before heading off to Ellsworth for breakfast, thinking we needed something to get us the fifteen miles to the main meal of the morning. Unfortunately, I ordered coffee cake which was a lot more than I needed; but I showed restraint and didn't finish it - not easy, because it was very good. (Amazing. I'd forgotten I ever cared for coffee cake. I dislike it now). By the time we reached Ellsworth, we were ready for a real breakfast.
After filling up, we headed off to Bar Harbor, just 27 miles away. The ride was very pleasant. The road was almost devoid of traffic and the weather was ideal. The scenery mostly consisted of farmland with occasional glimpses of the Atlantic. We had planned to stop for a break about 15 miles short of Bar Harbor, but the conditions were so pleasant that we continued on for another ten miles and then stopped to make sure we were going the right way and for some juice.
We headed out again fifteen minutes later and had another brief stop to observe a pair of osprey. Unfortunately, we ended up heading off in the wrong direction, toward Southwest Harbor. After we realized this we turned around and headed toward Bar Harbor. On the way, we passed a trail marker for Mount Saint Sauveur and decided to hike up it since we were not planning on coming back this way tomorrow. It was a nice break from biking and a pleasant hike, although there wasn't much of a view from the top.
By the time we got back to the bikes we were both very hungry and were just barely able to muster enough energy to make it the rest of the way to Bar Harbor. After reviving ourselves, we found a bike store to fix our rim (the one badly damaged from our crash in the White Mountains. We were lucky that it held out this long). While this was being done, we did some window shopping for souvenirs and lobster dinners.
Bar Harbor is very much a tourist town. The waterfront consists of shops and restaurants in about a one to one ratio. But it did have two very nice parks, one right on the water and the other at the center of the downtown area.
After taking the bike to a second bike shop where we purchased a new wheel for my bike (What's this about? Maybe the first shop decided it wasn't repairable, but didn't have a wheel available?), we headed for the ferry terminal to get tickets for our Sunday ride to Yarmouth. While we were there we learned of an inexpensive room in Bar Harbor so we headed back to town, checked in, and then headed out on foot to look around on foot and look for the perfect lobster dinner.
After a short search we found what looked like a nice place. We ordered lobster pie and stuffed lobster to share and it came with a great salad bar and baked potato. The dinner was delicious and we both ended up stuffed. We then went to a tavern for awhile and listened to a folk singer. It was very interesting watching all the people in the bar. They were mostly locals and it definitely had the feeling of a singles bar. The singer took a break at about 9:30, so we headed back to the hotel stopping at a few stores along the way. (narrative by Rachael)
Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 525 miles (845 km)
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Lyle and I are getting excited for our next long trip in a couple of weeks, which has me looking at blogs so I can see where we are going! I can across this one and it is taking me back to my bike trip in 1981 or 82. I haven't narrowed down the exact year yet! I was not as wise as yourselves and did not keep a journal.
I do know that my two girlfriends and I had very little money, and it was raining all day when we were in Bar Harbour. We were in a pub and the bar keep kindly let us nurse one draft beer each for most of the afternoon as it was miserable out. The sun eventually camp out and we got on our way. Nice place though from what I remember. Your trip is bringing back fond memories. Thank you
1 year ago
If our plans hold, we’ll be up your way on a road trip with the car this summer, sometime in late July. If you’re around we’ll have to finally meet up.
1 year ago
1 year ago