December 27, 2017
Sonoyta, Sonora - Ajo, Arizona: All is right with the world, I ordered a second breakfast today.
Jacinto slept like a rock all night. I woke up at every horn honk and door slam. Tonight we are in Tucson. I'm hoping for more restful sleep. But we have figured out to turn on the heater the instant we get in the room, at least I wasn't sleeping with all of my clothes on. Jacinto was happy this bed was softer than last night's.
We went to breakfast at the attached restaurant. I had my Desayuno a la Mexicana eaten before he had taken two bites of his meal. The waitress was quite surprised when I ordered another meal. I ate half and Jacinto ate half. That should hold us for 42 miles!
Although the temperature is in the 40's, it is very overcast outside. Sunshine makes all of the difference.
Jacinto has finally shaved in honor of crossing the border. I think that's the reason, he's not admitting it. At least he looks normal again. That was a three week foray into beard-dom. I'm happy it's over.
OK - let's get the border crossing over.
There was a cute little puppy in the parking lot. We didn't talk to it or encourage it in any way to follow us. But it did. Across four lanes of traffic and on down the road until we out paced his little legs. Traveling in foreign countries it is very difficult to see how animals are ignored and mistreated. Maybe this little guy's mom told him to find some soft gringos to take him home.
I had to laugh at Jacinto. We've had several dogs come out and bark at us. He yells at them in English. I admit, the dogs do stop. But do you think Mexican dogs know what "Quit it!" means in English? I'm sure it's the tone of voice. We've only had a few dogs come out. I was impressed and happy that they all stopped when yelled at. The couple of days we've ridden in Arizona haven't been an issue for dogs either. Let's see about the rest of the trip.
Two miles later we were at the border. I waited outside while Jacinto went in. We expected that I would have to go in and show my face to cancel my visa. Nope. It is a very small one person office. The man could see me waiting outside of the door. On we went. At the American side there was a line of about ten cars waiting. We went past them to the pedestrian lane. It was completely empty. I went inside to ask where we should go since we are on bicycles. "Come on in." I had my passport and Jacinto's also. I handed them over. The agent asked where my husband was - waiting with the bikes. "Tell him to come in." Me - "With the bikes?" Agent - "Yes."
By the time we had both the bikes inside, the agent handed me the passports. He didn't ask a single question or speak to Jacinto at all. We said thank you and kept going. Even at the Canadian border they ask a couple of questions. That was the easiest border crossing ever. Perhaps they deal with too many gringos going down to Puerto Penasco. Certainly we didn't see any loaded up vehicles of Mexicans heading home to visit as we do when we visit Jacinto's family.
From looking at the elevation profile I knew we had 8-9 miles of uphill before we hit rollers. Look at me - I wouldn't begin to call this an uphill at home. But it is here! I had warned Jacinto I was fatigued in general and I also wanted to take photos of all of the sights I didn't take photos of the first time. Expect a 10 mph average. In the end I had a 10.5 average. Jacinto didn't say anything today about speed. I think he is resigned to poking along. I also overemphasized many times, "Look at this! Look at that!" "I need a photo of this for sure!" I think he would have felt like a curmudgeon to complain.
TMI alert - Jacinto must have stopped to pee every 3-4 miles. I asked if he had a problem, or if it was an activity while he waited for me. Jacinto laughed and agreed it was an activity.
We quickly arrived at the Organ Cactus National Monument. We could see RV's coming down the road from the campground. I had just read Wayne's journal last night and I thought about how fun it would be to camp there and also to ride the scenic 20 mile loop. I did float the idea that we could drive back and drive the loop. Jacinto said it was too far. He's just not interested. He grew up in cactus country - although certainly not this kind of cactus country!
I took SO many photos today. It was hard to pick a bad spot. We started out under a heavily clouded sky My elderly admirer this morning told me the clouds would clear off in the afternoon. He was correct. I had nicer photos in the afternoon after the sun came out.
I started out with two shirts on and long fingered gloves. Those quickly came off. I did keep the ear warmers on all day. I frequently use them at home to block the wind. We had a slight headwind today. It wasn't notable.
We lost our nice shoulder today when we crossed the border. The quality of pavement was good. But the white line was the edge of the pavement. There seemed to be many more vehicles heading south than north. That was good. But all vehicles seemed to be going fast. I had a couple pass closer than was comfortable. Everyone else moved over.
I paid attention to the RVs and motorhomes today, since I made the statement yesterday that I hadn't been seeing any. Today I saw only a couple big fancy motorhomes. Typically they pulled a dune buggy. We also saw trucks pulling dune buggies. Today I did see more modest motorhomes and RVs. But none of the old rattletrap sort. These all looked pretty new and fancy.
I'm getting good at putting one tip toe down and taking a photo. At first it was a HUGE difference from my long recumbent, where I would easily put either one or two flat feet down when I stop. With the short recumbent, I can get only the tip toes of one foot down. Not both feet. If one tiptoe isn't good, I have to stand up. That was quite a change to start, but I think I've got it now.
I took many photos, but just the click and go sort. Finally I was getting some hot foot and need to get off the bike and get some circulation going. I stopped perhaps 5 miles out of Ajo. The day was almost done. Darn. I was sure loving cactus country.
Jacinto caught up to me just outside of town. He had stopped at the restroom in Why and chatted with some people. I told him to go ahead and start loading his bike in the van. I would be along.
Oren - I got lost going into town. Where were you? It was just slightly lost. I took a turn around the plaza. I thought I heard Jacinto whistle at me. At that instant I thought I was going straight and shouldn't be, so I quickly turned into the plaza and rode around it. No Jacinto. I went back to the main road and continued straight. I can get lost anywhere. It's a good thing I have Bertha (the ridewithgps program) turned on most of the time.
I knew Jacinto wouldn't be happy about loading the van up. He doesn't like fussing with stuff. It went quickly, since we'd just loaded things at home and we knew how to make it all fit. I stopped at the office to say thank you. The door was locked, but an Indian lady from India came to the door. She didn't seem to speak much English. But I said thank you several times. Perhaps that was why I thought the man spoke a bit strangely.
We agreed to go across to the grocery and buy something at the deli as a late lunch/early dinner. We sat outside and ate, then hit the road. We had 117 miles to Tucson. I was most pleased that we continued to see cactus all the way. The road goes through an Indian Reservation. There were a couple of stores on the way, but no motels. The town of Sells was about halfway and would be a perfect stopping point. This road had very little traffic and occasionally had a shoulder.
I've never been to Tucson before and had no idea how large it is. I'm completely intimidated about riding here. I've heard so much about their good bicycle system, but is there anything by the airport where we are?
We have this room for three nights and requested a first floor room. We are on the third floor because they are cleaning carpets on the first and second floors. The lady assured us we could get our bikes in the elevator. Which is correct. But I think we will ask to switch to the first floor tomorrow anyway.
We've done laundry - even though that wool isn't stinking - Jacinto shirt is almost completely white in back from salt! I've got a day off type mentality, but the plan is to ride 50 miles tomorrow. If we can get away from the airport . . .surely we can. I'm a small town girl. I like towns with one road in and one road out where I can't get lost.
Coffee - Jacinto is happy to be back to the van and his percolator. He now says it will be coming along for the remainder of the trip. No more taking chances on drinking dishwater in the morning!
The pretrip has been great. Now I'm ready to see the gang.
BTW, it was 71 degrees in Ajo when we quit riding today. Forecast for the next three days in Tucson is a high of 80. This is the life!
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Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 212 miles (341 km)
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