Ajo, AZ - Sonoyta, Sonora: We aren't in Colorado now, Toto! - The Squealing with Glee Tour

December 24, 2017

Ajo, AZ - Sonoyta, Sonora: We aren't in Colorado now, Toto!

It sure doesn’t feel like a riding day. Here it is, after 8 AM, and I am in my regular clothes, killing time until the magic hour of 10 AM. Jacinto has already warned me we have to get to Mexico before dark, not so much photo taking.

So far it’s not so desert-y and there are many types of green plants and cactus. All are unusual to me.

I have already observed that even the bushes that are fat enough to hide behind don’t have enough leaves for coverage. The ground is very flat. The few drainages where I could

Hide might already have someone else hiding in them.

Do you think I can hold it for 42 miles? 😮

We have each eaten a $2.99 breakfast burrito from the grocery conveniently located across the street. We just bought one each, not sure of the quality. They are about what I expected. I would have another to carry along. I'm still worried about what we will eat tonight. Jacinto says it will be fine and we can always eat the bars and salted nuts we have for snacks.

I ate my apple. I'm not sure if Mexico cares about bringing fruit across the border. Now it's time to decide what goes in the panniers and what stays in the van. It is 37 degrees right now. It's supposed to be 57 degrees at 10 AM and a high of 68 degrees. I believe I will go with tights. My lily white legs would burn to a crisp with a full day of sunshine.

It was rather spooky last night when we drove into town at dusk. There was not a single vehicle in front of the motel and shadows everywhere. The owner checking us in spoke in a strange manner. It wasn't that English wasn't his first language. I don't think. But it seemed difficult for him to speak. Perhaps he had a stroke? All of these little things added up. One more strange piece. There was only one more room rented last night. They were placed right next to us. Doesn't that seem odd? Perhaps to make it easier for the cleaning lady.

OK - now I'm off to pack. Whatever decisions I make shouldn't be too important. This part of the trip is four days. Possibly five if we decide to take a day off at the beach. Then we are back to the van and driving to meet the crew in Tucson!

3 PM - We are in our hotel room in Sonoyta over the Mexican border.

All things look better in the daylight. Ajo was actually a charming little town with many murals and folk art creations scattered through town. We didn't go into town proper until we cycled through.

We hadn't gone a quarter mile before Jacinto stopped. His feet were hitting the panniers. What? You would have mounted the panniers and gone for a spin or two before leaving on a tour? How practical of you. Jacinto is a very laid back fellow. It's lucky his tires have air. We stopped and he adjusted the panniers. Then he needed a bathroom break. That took us to the far side of town. 45 minutes and we've gone a mile. So much for him worrying *I* was going to hold us up taking too many photos.

The town of Why was another ten miles down the very flat road. That was ok. I could keep my speed up around 14 mph and not feel like I was holding Jacinto up. Sometimes he fell behind. I had to tell him to keep within sight distance so I'd know he was okay and didn't have a flat. I asked why he was lagging behind. I know I'm not faster than he is. Occasionally Jacinto is a wise man. He said I am faster than I think and the two times he caught up with the whole day was on the only inclines. Of course I was happy to hear I was so fast I was outpacing him. Liar. But that's a beneficial lie .

We hadn't gotten any distance out of town before we were passed by two Border Patrol trucks, both pulling trailers with four wheelers. I guess illegal activity doesn't take a break for the holiday. We saw a large number of Border Patrol vehicles on the road, plus a big Border Patrol station in Why.

Jacinto had noted coming into town yesterday that we didn't have much shoulder. I hadn't considered that the road we were driving was also the road we would continue on to Mexico. Nope. Not much shoulder. Perhaps 6-12". Plus it was overgrown with bushes. We hoped that most people were already where they wanted to be for the holiday.

We found that to be true - there wasn't much traffic. But what traffic we had seemed to be traveling far over the posted 55 mph speed limit. Only one car passed too close and it passed both of us too close. Everyone else went way around and we had a few friendly toot toots.

This is very different country from Colorado and not what I expect of Mexico. I've been to Tamaulipas and Jalisco, where Jacinto has family. This area of Arizona and Sonora is mountainous in the distance with all sorts of cactus and unusual cacti type plants in the valley. I took only a few photos - having been warned by Jacinto not to stop too often. We are cycling back this same route, so I have an idea of where I should stop for photos. Plus, we are supposed to take the 21 mile dirt loop through the monument on the return trip. Wayne Estes concisely described riding that route as being IN the desert instead of going THROUGH the desert.

We are off to eat now. I think things might fold up early for the holiday. We are probably going to get food to go for tonight and in the morning.

More later.

We had quite a walk about looking for food. The restaurant attached to the hotel was open, but that would be too easy. We passed a number of closed places before coming to a one table restaurant that was open. The lady said she had run out of food, but told us to go a couple more blocks where a taco stand was open. Street corner taco stands usually have good, greasy food. I was happy to stop there. Jacinto had a burrito and two tacos. I ate four tacos. They weren't the best street tacos I've had, but I filled up. Jacinto was happy with the green jalapeño salsa. We paid $140. pesos, about $8.

We went to the neighboring grocery to see what there might be for dinner. It was freezing inside! They had the old style open freezer cases. It seemed more than half of the store was refrigerated cases. I would not want to pay their utility bill. I was ready to leave, without food. But Jacinto asked many questions at the deli and we ended up with two meals to go out of their very left over looking deli case. I'm not expecting that food to be tasty at all. We also bought two gallons of water.

Jacinto is famous for taking a walk after we get to town. We took the long way back to the hotel. Carting the water and the food . . . I was not as whiny as I could have been.

I could hardly uncurl my fingers from the water holder when we got back to the room. Jacinto didn't even ask me if I wanted to look for more food. He just said he was going to go to the gas station across the street and see what they had. We had stopped back by the taco stand, which was supposed to close at 8 PM only to find out that he had run out of food. We had the grocery store take out for dinner. What about breakfast? Thus, Jacinto had a mission.

He soon came back with a coffee that he said tasted like dishwater. Jacinto was mourning his last minute impulse decision to leave his percolator behind. Kevin seemed to find Oxxo coffee good. Jacinto decided to take a chance. He didn't go to the Oxxo station, maybe that's why this coffee had no flavor.

The San Antonio restaurant would make some machaca burritos with eggs. A three pack for $50. pesos. That sounds like breakfast. Jacinto was hoping for big fat burritos, but they are pretty skinny. He bought two packs of three. There's breakfast. Hopefully we find something on Christmas in Puerto Penasco. I imagine at the worst we can go to a tourist motel to get food. Of course, we are not staying in one of the big high rise places on the beach. Oh, no. We have leads on a couple of $25. places in town. We had one researched on the computer and a retired couple at the rest area told us they always stayed at Posada La Roca, a $25 place right on the beach.

If you read all of the beginning pages, you will know that we are trying wool clothing this trip. We did not rinse our clothes out when we arrived. One chore saved! However, I have a wool bra, which was pretty sweaty and it is still sweaty. I'm concerned it might not dry. However, it is damp but it doesn't stink!

Jacinto has made another foray, back to the gas station. This time he came back with gas station burritos. It might not be tasty, but I think we have enough food to get us the 60some miles tomorrow.

Jacinto attaches my flag before we take off. Seeing the flag in my rear view mirror makes me happy. Hopefully it also makes me visible to passing autos.

There were many murals in Ajo. Look at the details on this one.

Our departing photo, taken by the friendly cleaning lady.

We have coyotes in Colorado, but they aren't brave enough to beg food. There's another pretty mural in the background.

Jacinto says now he's a citizen, he's is not afraid of the Border Patrol.

I showed great restraint and didn't stop at near as many interestingly shaped cacti as I wanted. This one made the cut.

I will have no problem bicycling back through this scenery again.

Here is our $400 peso ($20.) room. It was fine. Hot water. Wi-fi. cable TV. A seat on the toilet AND toilet paper. What more could you want? Jacinto was pleased to get such a bargain. We had planned to stay at the neighboring hotel for $580 pesos - but he liked this price better.

Jacinto is happy with his street burrito.

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 44 miles (71 km)

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