Climbing away from the Madding Crowd: Ste. Maxime to Sillans le Cascade

April 6, 2015

There's something a little too fake about the Cote d'Azur for me. The setting is beautiful, where the mountains come down to the sea, but the things that made the region desirable are being submerged under hype and greed. There are innnumerable real eastate agents all selling villas, condos, and even shacks, all with "sea views" and all at inflated prices. The roads, which once wound between fishing villages, are now overcrowded with the Mercedes and Porsches of the rich and the Citroens and Peugeots of the hoi-polloi. Cycling here in the high season must be a test of nerves. For much of the way along the coast between Ste. Maxime and St. Tropez there is a "cycle" path, which is great if you can avoid the strollers and joggers, and squeeze between the illegally parked cars. Along the path are all the businesses that cater to the resort crowds: pool services, garden stores, nurseries where one has the choice of 100 year old olive trees and stately palms, campgrounds cum trailer parks, restaurants and bars. After two days and my laundry done and I was on my way out, and as needs be, up.

A short warm up along the bike path and then inland to La Garde Freinet. The shouilders of the road are comfortably wide so what traffic there didn't bother me. About an hour of cranking and I'm there. I stopped for coffee and to catch my breath, and then it was over the top and back down into the "real" Provence.

La Garde Freinet perched on top of its hill.

The downhill road had no shoulder, but much less traffic. Probably because the sea is hidden from that side of the hill. I was soon descending through groves of Mediterranean pines. The first spring flowers were scattered among them, but I was enjoying the ride too much to stop and photograph them.

A short while later, I was on my way back up to le Thoronet, where I stopped for lunch. The restaurant where I ate is called Mon Paradis Provençal, and it is run by Matthieu (if I caught his name right), and if you ever find yourself in le Thoronet about lunchtime, give it a try. Matthieu and his wife are displaced northerners, and they run a six table, no frills eatery. They also are known for their charitable work, taking meals to shut-ins and supporting the Restos de Coeur (restaurants with heart), a food bank initiative in France. And Matthieu is a great cook.

I had turkey a la Provençal, cooked right before me!

It feels like eating in somebody's kitchen, which of course you are!

Feeling very satisfied, and very full, I left to continue my climb into the lower Alps. Along the way I took a wrong turn, which turned out to be a nice and very scenic byway.

When I saw this chateau, I should have guessed that I'd soon be climbing up to it.

I decided that I'd stop at the first hotel I came to, and just a few kilometers later there was Sillans la Cascade. The hotel had one room left, and I took it. The village is very pretty, but the only restaurant was serving its Easter special for dinner. Oh, well, I climbed enough today I can eat anything and everything. And I did: terrine de lotte, epaule d'agneiu, and tarte aux poires.

A doorway in Sillans that caught my eye.

Motto on a house in Sillans, written in Provençal. "Time passes, pass it well"

This Robin was bold enough to let me photograph him. North American robins are quite a different species, and not closely related to these. The French name for this bird is "rouge gorge", red throat.

Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 438 km (272 miles)

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