Sun 13th Sep: I was shaking and had a terrible throbbing headache which no amount of coffee this morning would alleviate, so returned to bed: the only thing to do. Rest. It was Sebastian's fault. Staying at another hostel, he came to the Backpackers barbecue lastnight and insisted on sharing his bottle of wine with me. Though, I didn't need much persuading. It was a fine red from Cafayate. I bought a bottle in return. Then a short time before the staff began moving custommers out in order to close up, he bought a third bottle and we downed that too. Three bottles are enough. But, we carried on to a bar in Balcarce street and quite a few beers later began drinking Copra Libra. There was a French couple at our table that spoke English like natives as they'd worked three years for Morgan Stanley in the city of London. Alec and Rachel were on a round the world trip which was coming to an end. They said that they weren't looking forward to going home. That really they'd like to travel for another year. Sat beside them was a woman from California in Argentina for a lauguage conference. She told us about a man in Bolivia she met on the internet who couldn't manage a word of English to begin with, but whom she taught and now he teaches English in La Paz. My friend Arena, we met a couple of weeks ago, I thought would be there, didn't turn up. Is thinking it could be nice to meet again before I leave Salta.

Mon 14th Sep: Today yet more pilgrims from all corners of Salta provence neared the end of their long trek as a procession moved along Calle Buenos Aires this afternoon, bearing banners proclaiming their home village.

Tue 15th Sep: Today all the pilgrims are here as today is the big day: "La Fiesta Nuesta Senora del Milago"*. This afternoon the city came to a standstill as pilgrims and spectators packed into the plaza. Already by two o'clock a brass band played and along a cordoned off route, police, army, navy and the airforce lined up wearing respectful berets, waiting as the crowds behind the barriers waited for three PM when the procession of bishops and catholic dignitary would come out the doors and down the cathedral steps and proceeding would begin. But meanwhile a street dog lay flat out on it's side, on the cobble stones in the way not far from the bottom of the cathedral steps; legs fully stretched out as if sleeping, though with ears picked up, so awake. Two police officers walked over, crouched down and petted the dog on the back then got it on it's feet and led it off to the side by the collar. But no sooner had they let go of the collar than the dog waddled back out and plopped down on the same spot; in the way of the soon to be appoaching bishop's frocks.

Wed 16th Sep: Lastnight Sebastian was back. Back in the hostel bar telling two girls and a boy from London about his secondhand record shop in Buenos Aires. And his sideline, buying up unsold Adidas trainers from sportshops to sell as highly fashionable footwear at a big mark up on ebay.

* The festable of Our Lady of The Miracal (15th Sep); gives thanks for the city being spared destruction from Earth Quakes over the years since collonisation in the sixteenth century.