Day 61: Soulac-sur-Mer to Marennes

April 7, 2024

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Soulac was super peaceful this morning. Although there are some cars visible in this photo, none were moving and no one was on the sidewalks.

We jumped on the Velodysee, which has been really super, all the way from Bayonne.

After a bit we came to this structure (below). Even though it has now been years since we were camping, good wild camp spots always jump out at me. Dodie, however, astutely observed that this was actually a train station. Indeed, a track extended from here all the way to the ferry (10 km), but we didn't see any train hardware, so we guess the line is defunct.

As usual we left extra early, so as not to miss the ferry in case of any mishap. We though that mishap was here, when we saw a route barree coming. But no, it was the motorists who were getting the grief, and we only got an advice to dismount. "Dismount" is a word we have learned in other languages. "Absteigen" in Germqny seems very forthright, but in France it's "pied a terre". That strikes me as kind of abstract or poetic. It's a little inexact too, because "feet on the ground" still does not exactly mean you've dismounted to proceed anywhere!

Along the way we ran by a lighthouse. This is one of many along the Gironde estuary, and they seem quite famous, with a lot of posters and info panels about them scattered about.

We arrived early, of course, for the ferry. This gave us time to look at a nearby display about one of those the lighthouses. the Phare (lighthouse) de Cadouan. At 400 years, it is mentioned as the oldest lighthouse in France still in operation. An info panel gave some statistics, like that it is 302 steps to the top. One that confused me was the statement that the light power is 250 watts, which strikes me as no more than two or three household light bulbs. If anyone out there is really into lighthouses, then this one has this website.

Oldest lighthouse in France still in operation.

We were the only cyclists and there were only a few cars on the ferry, since this is still very much the off season. As we stowed our bikes, we noticed that a spot was getting some touchup paint. That's nice, but we wondered why it apparently took seven staffers to achieve the chore!

As we arrived at Royan, we were sensitive to what we were going to see, because we were already aware that the town had been totally destroyed during WWII. The story, as near as I can make out from confusing roadside panels, is that in 1945, the British and Americans consulted with the French about what to do about Royan. The French at first identified some limited targets, but later changed their minds and called off any raids. But the British and Americans "failed to get the memo" and somehow understood that they were to take out Royan. So they did just that, flattening the place.

We wondered just what we would see as we got off the boat.

Roadside panels show some of the bombing effects.

As if this were not enough, Royan got double flattened, by being liberated, later in 1945. Lots of roadside panels attest to this:

There is also this liberation memorial, on a hill overlooking the harbour.

Yet another memorial is set up for the Frankton Operation, that we mentioned from a memorial on the opposite bank, yesterday. This one pictures the commandos, of which only two survived. Of the remaining eight, two drowned, and six were captured, tortured, and executed.

From the hill with the memorials we watched our ferry returning to Soulac. We could also look put along the shore, noticing the strange fishing huts, which are called carrelets. The name derives from the square nets they lower, as "carre" is French for square. Learn more about it here.

We were surprised to see quite a few "Soulac" style houses standing by the water, and wondered if these were reproductions, or more likely, were ones repaired following war damage.

The name on the front is "Castel Horizon"

We pulled along parallel to the shore, on a bit of a bluff, and looked down on the beach. Some families were frolicking on the packed sand. There were not a lot of people, so it was not a beach "scene", yet it was not an organized group. Just some random people. Nevertheless there was some interest to observing them. First off, the little kids were having a grand time digging in the sand, though we might want to change that assessment, from the one in the second picture down, upset it seems because of dirty hands.

I also spotted this family, batting a tennis ball back and forth. So what? Well the kid on the right was extremely good. When he was playing his father, the balls were moving back and forth with much vigor. Once Mom took the racquet, the kid began to send her soft shots, to give her a chance. Her fate then seemed sealed when the baby ran up under her feet and began to cry. That's when Dad grabbed baby, as you see in the photo. Our tennis ace then continued, giving Mom a chance.

You may be wondering why was Steve standing over a beach , becoming schooled in one family's tennis abilities? Assuming he is not some kind of pervert, there must be a deeper reason! The reason is that Dodie had pulled us over beside the bakery shown below, just to restock our food bag a bit. The bakery looks totally ordinary, and she chose it because it happened to be there. It was not until an hour or more later that we discovered that this had been one of the best bakeries we have encountered in France.

The first thing that came from the bakery was some they called a tarte Provencale. It was really a form of pizza. It's main features were quality mushrooms, tomatoes, eggplant, and raclette cheese, with herbs, on an excellently baked crust. The flavours and crust texture were superb!

The second thing was one of my favourite genres, the tarte aux abricots. But look at this thing:

What a bakery! It is now in our hall of fame.

Here is some evidence of restoration of one of the old houses.

Along the way toward la Palmeyre the beaches spawn a holiday atmosphere. "Beach Burger" is not likely to be our restaurant, though.

Here is someone that does not mind riding in the sand.

We take this to be a female Common Blackbird

Not that tough, really, but there were some significant roller coaster effects.

By and large, the trail up the coast here is just as good as for all the past days.

Only 5,000 km to Montreal. So far on this cycle we have already done 2,919 km.

We had a long stretch like this. We were gloating, though, because the bikes had the pavement and any cars got the sand.

Dodie remembered one trip where we hid from rain is restaurant, so I thought I would record it and later see if I find our earlier picture.

You have to cross La Seudre to progress up the coast. But the bridge is long, and there was a nasty cross wind. I had to really focus to avoid freaking out up there.

Near Marennes, a roundabout features this sculpture.

Here is one of our first chateaus. As is the case with many, they are either run by the government or have gone commercial. This one is billed as an adventure park.

A family passed us as we followed the Velodysee to our BnB. We liked to see the little one on a Tag a Long. I also noticed how Mama rode outboard, with a flasher going.

Our stay for this night is a BnB (except no breakfast) which is called Chambre Zen a la Campagne (Zen room in the country). I like the idea of the name, but it is just a small bedroom in somebody's house, and we share the washroom with them. 69 euros. Given that it is pouring rain outside, it still feels good to be here. There is also a heater directly at my back as I type this. Dodie says I am blocking the heat rays. That may be true, but surely I will soon begin to re-radiate and warm up her and the room overall!

Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 2,919 km (1,813 miles)

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