Ramble Around Ronda

November 4, 2023

Some weeks have past since our day in Ronda. I punted this entry at the time, knowing that I'd burn so much time nerding out on the details it would just pile the blog backlog up higher. So I'm back now to dig up what we can remember of this day.

I do recall getting a slow start after the previous day's slog over the mountain pass in a windstorm, and being very happy to spend the day together on foot. Late in the morning we headed out towards the Plaza de Toros de Ronda, one of the oldest bullrings in Spain. It's just as well that we came after the end of bullfighting season. Neither of us is into blood sport, but the art and traditions are fascinating.

The street where our second level flat is located, about a five minute walk from the bullring

The Plaza de Toros de Ronda is home to the Real Maestranza de Caballeria, or the Royal School of Cavalry - the organization that runs the bullring, the Museo Taurino inside it, and a prestigious classical dressage school.

My notions of bullfighting have mostly come from Ernest Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises," intoned in the Audible version by William Hurt with all the ennui of the "lost generation" of early 20th century ex-pats. In the story, Jake introduces Brett Ashley to Pedro Romero, a talented young bullfighter at the Feria in Pamplona. Lady Ashley is enchanted as Jake points out the elegance and skill of Romero's moves with the cape to turn the bull. She runs off with the handsome young matador to Madrid, then the affair ends when Romero wants to make an honest woman of her.

Here at the Plaza de Toros de Ronda we learn about the real Pedro Romero, the legendary bullfighter who dispatched thousands of bulls in this bullring in the late 18th century. Romero is credited with creating the classical style of bullfighting at the school here, marked by artistry as well as courage. But the bullfighter who actually inspired Hemingway to create the Romero character in the book is likely Cayetano Ordóñez, the celebrated matador of the 1920s-30s.

In front of the bullring, homage to Cayetano Ordóñez

In the courtyard behind the ring, a tribute to the bull and its place in Spanish culture

Corrals where the bulls were staged for the fights

The last chute before the bull enters the ring

The Plaza de Toros de Ronda is the largest bullring in Spain with a diameter of 66 meters.

The royal box above the door where horses and carriages entered the ring

The golden albero sand used on the bullring reflects sunlight and soaks up the gore from the fight.

Along with bullfighting history, exhibits tell the story of the Real Maestranza de Caballeria, founded in the 16th century in response to Phillip II's call for the organization of militias to defend the realm. Equestrian education was a vital part of military training, and cavalrymen trained here in the art of dressage to prepare their horses for battle.

Much attention is also devoted to the elegant Andalusian horses native to Iberia. A favorite of the royals and nobility, the breed is recognized for its intelligence, agility and luxurious manes and tails. I don't know if I've ever seen one of these beasts in the flesh but will be keeping an eye out.

In the gallery of Real Maestranza history, Peter Paul Rubens' painting of Andalusian horses in the hunt

The Museo Taurino has an extensive collection of bullfighting regalia and weapons of war used by the Real Maestranza.

After a good long look around the museum, we exited the Plaza de Toros and noticed the Pedro Romero Restaurante across the street. The specialty there is Rabo de Toro - bull's tail stew, of course. Well, why not?

Photos of famous matadors line the walls at Pedro Romero's

The stew was very good, just a bit of work to dig from the bones

After lunch, a couple of blocks down the street we came to the breathtaking 120-meter-deep gorge of the Guadalevin River that divides the city. The top of the cliff was a formidable bastion from which the Moors defended themselves until Rodrigo Ponce de Leon captured the town for the Catholic Monarchs in 1485. Lots of thrilling viewpoints here.

Completed in 1793, The Puente Nuevo over the gorge took 34 years to build.

Even with the stout iron railings, I felt a little dizzy looking over the gorge

From the Puente Neuvo we crossed over the gorge and continued into the old Jewish Quarter, admiring the ancient wooden doors and windows.

We spent a good while at the Mondragon Palace, a museum in a 14th-century home with beautiful gardens and courtyards. The legend is that this was the residence of the Arab King Abbel Malik, the son of the sultan of Morocco. The museum has a collection of historic and archaeological exhibits about the region, and displays about cheese production, saddlery, metallurgy and other traditions that influenced Ronda's economy.

View of the gorge from the grounds at the Mondragon Palace

For the rest of the afternoon we continued our walk through the Jewish Quarter, circling around past the old city walls and returning by the old bridge. With the dramatic views of the gorge, the river valley and the ancient buildongs, I found Ronda to be a romantic place to wander.

Moving on in our wander around the Jewish Quarter

The fortified walls of the Cijara de Ronda above the Guadalevin River

Looking in vain for a railing on these stairs

The Puente Viejo, built in the 16th century

In the Barrio near Igelsia de Padre Jesus

We were a little hungry and stopped for tapas at La Casapuerta Restaurante. The food was just ok; it got the job done. Then we turned in early to be fresh for our next ride to Setenil de las Bodegas. Overall it was a great recovery day.

Tonight's tapas experiment: camembert with curried mango chutney, grilled tuna kabob and a bollito con jamon.

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