October 19, 2023
Palma de Mallorca
We didn't get much sleep on the ferry to Palma, maybe an hour or so. I wrote for awhile at a table in the bar where it was so dark I couldn't see the keyboard. Back in the Sirena room with the lounge chairs that we booked for sleeping, the lights blazed all night long and it was quite cool. I was unprepared. Pro tip: bring warm clothes, a sleep mask, pillow and a light blanket if you have it. Better yet, spring for a cabin. I did have earplugs which helped with all the snoring and coughing.
It was full dark when we arrived in Palma this morning at 6:30. The ride off the dock was loud as all the trucks that traveled with us on the boat charged past up the hill. Fortunately it's a short ride in a bike lane to the hotel where we'll spend our last night here five days from now. It's ideal because we can drop off some unnecessary baggage that we can get along without until we come back here, starting with the bags that hold our folded bikes on trains, plus some warm clothes we don't need yet. It feels like the stuff we're stowing weighs at least 10 pounds. It will be good to lighten things up for the mountain stage ahead.
There are more benefits to landing here before we move on today - breakfast, a nice work area with power, and a comfortable place to relax until the sun warms things up. Sadly the pool is closed as of today due to low season, otherwise I could really go for a snooze in one of the lounge chairs there.
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Here's the plan for our five days in Mallorca before we ferry back to the mainland and Valencia. The bus will take us from Palma on MA13 - the straighter road to the southeast - up to Port de Pollenca on the north end of the island. From there we'll work our way back through the Tramontana mountains along the coast. I've fretted for days about the hills and the weather. Rain is forecasted almost every day that we're here, but what can you do about the weather?
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Our ride today is flat and easy on the Palma waterfront bike path. It's breezy at high tide and the breaking waves shower the bike path in spots. The path is busy this morning. With our panniers it feels a little narrow as we pass cyclists going the other way.
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Today's goal is just to have an easy cruise and enjoy the scene. In my sleep-deprived state I'm not as alert as I should be and almost run into a pedestrian. We could go further on out to Bellavista, but the headwind is picking up so we decide to turn back in Can Pastilla. The beach is a fun place to camp out for awhile with a lemonade and watch the windsurfers and kitesailors criss-cross each other.
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The buses load up underground at the Intermodal Station with the trains. A glassed in elevator on the plaza takes us down to the bus docks. We do a quick-fold of the bikes, load them into the bay underneath and settle in for the 90 minute ride to Port de Pollenca. It's all pretty easy and cheap at 11 Euros for two tickets.
I can't stay awake on the bus. Fortunately Barry is alert enough to get us both going at our stop. From there it's a short ride to our hotel for two nights.
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Spain has quite a range of dining customs. At 7:3o the restaurant at our hotel is out of sea bass and lamb chops. In Basque Country dinner didn't start until 8. If you wait that long here you're out of luck. We're still very happy with dinner and excited to be here.
Today's ride: 15 miles (24 km)
Total: 454 miles (731 km)
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