Mountain Stage to Soller

October 21, 2023

Today is the biggest ride of our tour of Mallorca. We're heading into the Serra de Tramontana mountains, the northern backbone of the island. A hard rain last night faded to intermittent showers this morning that are gradually clearing as we start out from Port de Pollenca. Our good luck with the weather is holding up.

The path is just as busy this morning as it was yesterday. Bikers gotta bike.

The gentle grade on a big shoulder makes a nice warmup before the big fun starts.

From Pollenca we start up Ma-10, the coast road that we'll ride for the next two days. Alternating sun and clouds keep us cool on the first 12 mile climb.

Dozens of cyclists pass us as the road tilts into the mountains. We might be moving at half the speed of the professional looking riders dancing on the pedals, maybe less. That's ok, we're entertained by the views that unfold around every curve.

A few rollerski teams have zoomed by coming back down the hill. This crew stood still long enough to get a picture.

There's quite a lot of car traffic on the coast road, and a few big buses. One bus struggled to clear a switchback, stopping traffic and obliging the cars to back up and make room.

I don't see anyone else lugging gear today, or e-bikes.

A friendly guy from Germany took this at Coll de Femenia, partway up the first climb.

A short, blissful downhill stretch before the climb continues

Shy sheep run for cover with bells clanging around their necks

Two hours after starting up the big climb we pop out at Coll de Sa Bataia. The service station here is a popular stop for cyclists. It's extra busy today because the finish line for a footrace is set up in front of the station. I suppose that's the reason why there are so many cars on the road. Fans are out with cowbells to cheer on the runners as they come down the chute. It's all very festive and the station seems to handle the crowd well. The pizza-baguettes and burgers at the station's cafe are tasty, and there's ice cream for extra fuel. We stay for a good break, short of halfway on the day's distance but more than halfway on the climb.

After lunch there's a mile or so further up the hill followed by a nice descent for a couple miles before we start the last big push, five miles up to the summit at the Tunnel de Monnaber.

The first people we've seen riding with gear. I'd love to try one of these tandems with the captain in the back sometime.

At the Tunnel de Monnaber we ride underneath Puig Major, the highest point in the Tramontana range. The peak is inaccessible because there is a military post up there, not that I wanted to climb any higher. I'm happy to take the tunnel through the mountain.

A long line of cars and a bus are coming through the other way. We're very lucky to have hit it when there is no traffic moving in our direction. Having one of those big noisy buses bearing down on me inside the tunnel would be no fun. A slight downhill grade makes for a quick trip through the tunnel.

Viewpoint just after the Tunel de Monnaber. The hard work is behind us, time for a break to survey the scene.

Barry leads the way down the 9 mile drop to Soller. He doesn't like to brake much but does wait for me to catch up every so often.

In Escorca the coast road runs under an aqueduct just before the turnoff for Sa Colabra. It's another famous must-do ride on Mallorca that we are not doing this time. We'll save it for the next visit to the island, whenever that may be.

Another tunnel that we have all to ourselves

Entering Soller, a lovely town in the Valley of the Orange Trees with history dating back to the Romans

A 1912 tram runs between Soller and the Port de Soller.

We see these green shutters all over the island. I wonder if there's a Pantone color for Mallorca green.

Our lodging is a block from the historic center of town.

What the room lacks in amenities like a nightstand and socket, it makes up for in charm. The terrace is nice too.

On the Placa de Constitucio, the main square, stands the 17th century church of Sant Bartomeu.

Fun to watch the kids playing futbol in the Placa Constitutio.

Paella at Sa Granja, a local hangout on the placa. It's a little light on seafood, but very tasty.

The evening in the placa is a wonderful end to our big day in the mountains.

Heart

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Today: 37 miles, 4,015 feet of ascent

For the tour: 516 miles, 32,621 feet of ascent

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 517 miles (832 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	11

Steve Miller/GrampiesOh dear, Mallorca looks so hilly. We have been toying with the idea of starting our spri g trip with a week on Mallorca, but Dodie is not so good at hills, so maybe not.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonCongratulations! That’s a lot of climbing but your photos are amazing!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesYou might still consider it. The Branhams tackled the hilliest part of the island, but the eastern 2/3 of it is much tamer. You might look at Al and Eva Walters’ journal, which generally stuck to the flatter parts.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott. We just glanced at a few pages from the Walters' Mallorca blog and it does look more doable than not. We will have to study it in more detail when we get home.
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1 year ago

Eva WaltersTo Steve Miller/GrampiesWe really liked cycling in Mallorca partly because we could choose as much or as little climbing as we wanted. There are so many alternate quiet routes to choose from. We would recommend cycling around the island from Palma south and east and then north to Alcudia/Pollenca, where you could base yourself for a few days and do loop rides. Our ride back to Palma down the middle of the island was not hilly and very pleasant.
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Eva WaltersThanks Eva. We just glanced at a few pages of your Mallorca blog and feel a bit better about it. When we get home, in 3 weeks, we will studt it more carefully and make some routong decisions, or not, for the spring.
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1 year ago

Anne MathersWoo-hoo, way to go you two! What a fabulous day of climbing. Full of beautiful scenery, ocean vistas, baby goats, glorious smooth pavement, perfect weather and a killer downhill to Soller. It’s among my all-time favourite rides. Enjoy your well-deserved rest in Soller.
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Eva WaltersI really enjoyed the journal entries from your time here Eva. There were so helpful in the planning stages.
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonThanks Rachel. I was worried about tackling this terrain loaded but it was manageable, just took more time.
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI hope you find your way here Steve. I will say that I'm glad it wasn't our first stop. It was helpful to work up to it.
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Anne MathersThanks Anne! This will be an all-time favorite for us too.
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1 year ago