In Valencia - Mar y Tierra Around Spain - CycleBlaze

October 25, 2023

In Valencia

The historic center of Valencia has some enticing architectural landmarks. I found an audio guide for many of them and have it loaded up on my phone for our walk around the city today. 

We're sure to get in plenty of steps around the sights, so to get a jump start on the day we walk to the bus stop near our flat.  The trip is easy to figure out. Google maps tells us where to go, the bus driver collects our 1.50 Euros and we're on our way.

The bus comes every 8 minutes. It rolls up right on time.
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The tour is narrated by Juan Alberto Romero, an art historian with a crisp British accent that is easy to understand. We share a pair of bluetooth earbuds to listen in. The system works well to keep us in sync and together since the sound breaks up if we get too far apart. 

The first stop is las Torres de Serranos, the medieval gate to the city. The two towers were built in the 14th century during the reign of King Peter IV of Aragon, known as Peter the Ceremonious. Over the central arch, a coat of arms depicts a dragon on a crest with a helmet - the King's personal crest. Our virtual guide says the dragon is now the emblem of the regional government of Valencia. 

Las Torres de Serrano, built in Valencian Gothic style, was the gateway for travelers from the Los Serranos region northwest of the city and the royal road from Barcelona.
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Another dragon mascot! I'll have to hunt for some postcards of this creature for the kids back home.
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Suzanne GibsonI wonder if you have heard of the website Pokamax. With any of your own photos they create a postcard and send it. It's not a virtual postcard, it's a real one via snail mail. Check out their website. It's fun sending postcards with your own pictures.
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1 year ago
Janice BranhamTo Suzanne GibsonI had not heard of that Suzanne. Great tip - thanks!
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1 year ago
The gate from the city side. The towers served as a prison in the 16th to the 19th century. During the Spanish Civil War the gate was used a repository to protect works of art from the Prado Museum in Madrid from the bombing.
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From the gate, we walk down the Placa de Sant Llorenc to the Turia Fountain in the Placa de la Virgen, enjoying the beautiful sunny day.  

I think the hexagonal tower of the Iglesia de San Lorenzo is very beautiful.
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The handsome Placa de Sant Llorenc, a good place to get a coffee and take in the scene.
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At the Turia Fountain, Barry channels Neptune, the god of the sea, surrounded by naked beauties who represent the eight irrigation ditches from the Turia River.
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Scott AndersonIrrigation ditches! Nice to know.
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In the Placa de la Virgen, Our Lady of the Forsaken Basilica on the left is connected to the Valencia Cathedral by what looks like a Roman wall. Roman ruins have been excavated under the Cathedral. Among it's treasures is the Holy Grail from the Last Supper.
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Inside the Basilica, the Virgin Mary of the Fools and Forsaken is considered the mother of all Valencians. She leans forward, creating the impression of looking directly at the faithful who come to pray for her help. Forgive me for the overexposed photo; it's really worth seeing in person.
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On the other side of the Cathedral we enter the bell tower and climb the spiral staircase. The 207 steps to the top aren't the shallow easy kind. It's a good workout.

The octagonal Miguelete bell tower of the Valencia Cathedral, an icon on the city's skyline
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Managed to keep my feet out of the spiral shot this time
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From the top of the Miguelete, a stunning panoramic view of Valencia
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Scott AndersonWow, that’s spectacular.
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Janice BranhamTo Scott AndersonWe were amazed by how vast the city is in all directions.
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Scott AndersonTo Janice BranhamIt does sprawl forever, it seems like. That’s really our only complaint about Valencia - you have to go so far to get out of town and into the hills.
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We are thinking about lunch after our hike up the tower. La Moma nearby serves up what for me is the best lunch of the trip so far- Paella Valenciana, in the city where the dish originated. Barry gallantly passes on his usual steak to join me since paella is made for two people.

Eagerly awaiting our Paella Valenciana. The server said it would take 35 minutes to prepare. They beat the forecast by 10 minutes.
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Paella with chicken, rabbit, snails, beans and artichoke. So good.
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Janice BranhamThey are very tasty with the saffron rice, once you dig the little nuggets out of their shells
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After lunch our virtual guide leads us by palaces, government offices, more churches and broad plazas with giant dancing bears. There's quite a variety of styles and we have an entertaining afternoon. 

So many beautiful bell towers in the historic district. This one at the gothic Santa Catalina Church was built from 1688-1705 without a staircase, a consequence of a flaw in the contract. The staircase was added years later.
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This soulful musician had me spellbound with his playing of Erik Satie's Gymnopedie No. 1
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The Palacio del Marques de Dos Aguas, an over-the-top example of rococo architecture, was buiilt in 1740 for the wealthy Rabassa merchant family.
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Flanking the entrance of the Palacio del Marques de Dos Aguas, two massive figures representing the two largest rivers in the region - the Turia and the Jucar ... Dos Aguas.
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Keith AdamsOver the top, indeed. Wow.
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Admission was free for the ground floor of the museum in the Palacio so we went in for a look. Inside are two rococo horse carriages made by the palace's architects for the Marquis in 1753.
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Beautiful railings abound in Valencia, although Barcelona is still the standout for me on this score.
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The Church of San Juan del Mercado, rebuilt in the 14th century in Gothic style and again in Baroque style two centuries later after a fire.
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By 4:45 we are at the Estacio Del Nord, killing time before our date with Team Anderson back at the Turia Fountain at 5:30. Except it's not at 5:30 as Scott recounted in his funny post, it's now. Luckily I have an obsessive habit of checking my email and see Rachel's message asking if we're coming. Wouldn't miss it.

The train station is a kilometer away from the Turia Fountain, a good distance to work off more of that paella as we hurry back.
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So wonderful to see Scott and Rachel again, good friends and Cycle Blaze sherpas. It's our fourth meeting since we stopped in Sarlat France just over a year ago. Hopefully we'll get to ride together again in Tucson this winter.
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Scott AndersonThanks again for being such good sports. See you in January!
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1 year ago

Dinner is a great ending to our day of fun in the center of Valencia. We have one more day here before moving south to Andalucia. Tomorrow we'll get back on the bike and remind our legs of what we're here for.

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