In San Sebastian: Embrace the siesta

October 10, 2023

Our tiny first floor room at Pension La Concha has no balcony and an open view of the street both ways, but it wins on location - two blocks from the iconic Playa de la Concha beach. Bike storage is excellent, in the reception area right outside our room, behind two locked doors, an easy half-flight of stairs up from the street.

Double windows do a decent job of blocking the street noise.

I'm fascinated by the elaborate railings on the balconies across the street.

Bikes are happily hanging out under the security cameras

Barry was happy to find something close to his favorite cereal at the neighborhood market. There's just enough room in the mini-bar to hold everything needed for our standard breakfast.

We've been masking up on public transit since we left home, up until the train to Bayonne two days ago, and are paying the price now. Both of us have colds. It's pretty mild for me, not so much for Barry so the first stop is at the Farmacia for cold medicine, tissues and a few other odds and ends. Next we check off the long-awaited money exchange errand.

The 3,000 Hungarian Forints I've carried around for two weeks yield 5 Euros, enough for a coffee stop.

Neither of us is up for a long walk today so we buy tickets at the TI for a ride around town on the big red touristic bus. The British narration is muddy and hard to follow through the earbuds they supply, but it's pleasant to cruise around and admire the Belle Epoque architecture of San Sebastian.

Cafe con leche at the Victoria Eugenia Theatre while we wait for the bus

The Puente Zurriola, last bridge over the Urumea before the ocean

Good views from the top of the double-decker bus

Yesterday we rode in on this freaky bike path in the middle of the road on the Santa Catalina bridge

At Monte Igueldo we hop off to catch the funicular up to Parc Urgell and the old lighthouse tower. The roller coaster at the amusement park here is closed on Tuesdays unfortunately, but the tower is open so that's our exercise for the day. I lost count of the number of the steps around 85. They're not too steep, worth the trip to the top.

Almost to the park at the top of the funicular

There are two funicular cars and a short double-track section where they pass each other going up and down. Four Euros a person, not bad.

This tower was built in 1854 but there have been light signals here going back to the 16th century

The top of the tower is a wonderful spot to gaze out at San Sebastian's beaches and the Pyrenees beyond.

Santa Clara Island guards the bay and La Concha beach.

After climbing back down from the tower and catching the next tour bus, we ride to the Maria Cristina bridge, not far from our hotel. On the way we stop for lunch at Patagonia Gastrobar and get a great big salad to share, queso y jambon croquettas and a salmon snack on crusty bread.

The vino blanco and rioja here are both very good. That tracks with most of the restaurants we've been to. The house wines are reliably good, and cheap. I think a glass was 2.50 Euros.

It's a pleasure to walk the beautiful pedestrian plazas here.

Back at the hotel we eye the baggage critically. Tomorrow starts a series of three long days in the saddle with lots of climbing so its a good time to lighten the load. The U-locks we've been toting around on the racks underneath the panniers haven't been used yet. There's some kind of bike storage everywhere we're staying, and our cable locks have been good enough to secure the bikes for short stops. At nearly 2.5 pounds each, it seems silly to keep carrying these things so they are going home, along with some other stuff we can get along without.

Time to jettison anything that isn't earning its keep.

The post office stays open until 8:30 so that errand can wait. Barry pops a decongestant and looks ready to crash for a few hours. I wander out to the beach.

The beautiful railings that line La Concha beach were built in 1910 by Juan Rafael Alday for the sum of 5,700 pesetas, about 34 Euros today.

Same railings at the restaurant, on brand

Siesta time. Seems like a pretty good idea.

After a swim I walk the waves for awhile. It's an incredibly clean, lovely beach. No seaweed or sharp shells to dodge.

After a snooze, a glass of wine at La Perla.

The bike path runs all the way down the beach. Tempting, but we'll get to ride it tomorrow on the way out of town.

Heading back toward the room I call Barry to check in. He is up and ready for dinner. First we meet up at the post office to ship our stuff home.

The box is bulging with all the stuff, but still I'm astonished to see 4.4 kg on the scale - 10 pounds, five for each of us! That'll make a difference on the hills.

The clerk at the post office wraps plenty of tape around our bulging box of ballast and sends it on its way.

Last night we walked a long way for dinner. It's really not necessary to go that far; there are plenty of appealing places in the neighborhood, and other pretty things to see right here.

Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San Sebastian

One last swing by the beach before dinner

The Sebastopol bar, just two blocks from the hotel

Tortilla patatas and some other things I can't precisely identify, but they're very tasty. The bill for supper: 13.30 Euros.

It's been a restful day in the beautiful city. We're ready for more of the Basque coast tomorrow.

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Anne MathersWe rode this coastline in 2017, so it’s awesome to follow along. If you are going to stay in Getaria, you might want to consider visiting the Ballenciaga Museum. It’s very cool, even though neither of us is into fashion we both enjoyed it a lot. It’s a cut little place with fab food.
I am loving your journal ❤️.
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Anne MathersThank you Anne. We had lunch in Getaria but were past it when I read this. I caught a glimpse of a sign that said Ballenciaga and wondered if it was about the fashion brand.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonI hope you get feeling better soon!
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1 year ago

Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonWe're both past the crud, feeling good now
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1 year ago