Home - Mar y Tierra Around Spain - CycleBlaze

November 17, 2023 to November 18, 2023

Home

After the mad dash for the Cordoba train station three days before, we were taking no chances on the flight home. Delta advised arriving at the airport three hours ahead of time. With all the road blocks we'd seen in Madrid due to protests, we weren't sure if the taxis would be able to drive up the street to our hotel. Considering traffic and the possibility that we'd have to walk a block or two to get a cab, we added an hour to get to the airport.

Turns out there was plenty of time. The cab came right to the door and we were on the road by 7:10 for our 11 am flight. From there everything moved along at speed. We were at the airport in 20 minutes, then a porter carted our bags to the Delta counter. Between the taxi and the porter we used up the rest of our Euros so there was no fuss with changing money. 

By 8:10, an hour after leaving the hotel, we had checked the bikes in, cleared security and passport control and were walking down the concourse to the gate. What a difference this was from our experience flying home out of Charles de Gaulle last year. That time we needed every bit of three hours to get on the plane.

I'm a fan of the Madrid airport. It's beautiful, and efficient in our one experience.
Heart 7 Comment 2
Paula MacMannWhat an incredible adventure… and such role models for the younger ones! Yay to both of you.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Paula MacMannThanks for following along Paula!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago

Happy to have free time and fast wifi to work on the journal, I found a quiet table at a coffee shop and spent a couple hours conjuring up memories of our days in Cordoba. 

The plane departed on time for the long trip back over the Atlantic. Flight attendants were attentive, the food was decent and the baggage arrived when we did. No complaints at all.

In Atlanta we were not so enamored with the dingy, crowded and noisy international terminal. Happily the second leg to St. Louis was also on time and we were outta there. Our son Luke picked us up at Lambert airport and we crashed at home, in our own bed. It was as smooth a return as one could hope for.

One last hop over la tierra to St Louis
Heart 5 Comment 0

Barry and I had starkly different approaches to reentry at home. The next day he went on a home repair tear - fixing a broken door lock, snaking a clogged drain, plugging a leaky pipe, charging a dead car battery, ordering new shower door rollers for the RV. All in one day. He was back in his element.

Barry's sense of smell left him several years ago. It's a hazard sometimes, like the time there was a gas leak in the RV, but helpful for snaking the drain.
Heart 3 Comment 0

While he beavered away, my head was still back in Spain. Our bike mileage for the trip stood at 981 and all I wanted to do was round up that number to four digits and daydream about riding through the hills of Andalucia. I did the bare minimum of domestic chores, picking up groceries and starting the laundry. Then I cracked open my Bike Friday suitcase, put the bike back together with help from the chief mechanic, and went for a ride in the sunshine. 

I wasn't expecting much in the way of fall colors this late and was delighted to find some trees still holding on to their looks. Considering that my body clock was still on Madrid time, I'm counting this last ride.

Ahhh, back in the saddle again.
Heart 6 Comment 0
Heart 3 Comment 0

Two weeks later, my brain is still back in Spain. It's a happy place to be. Dragging out the process of finishing the journal has certainly contributed to the fixation. Besides poking along on our story from Madrid, I've been absorbed in cleaning up photos and looking back on everywhere we went. Between the two-week bus tour in Central Europe and the seven weeks on the bikes from southern France into Spain, we traveled through nine countries and 37 cities. In Spain we rode in six regions, or "autonomous communities" - the Basque Country, Cataluña, Mallorca in the Balaeric Islands, Valenciana, Andalucia and Madrid. It's overwhelming to think about it all.

I'm entranced by Rachael's slideshows in Team Anderson's journal Falling Through Spain. It would be cool to make one that pulls together some of the best moments of the trip, although I'm struggling to winnow down the photos to a reasonable number. I might need more than one slideshow. In the meantime, I've pulled up a few pictures that transport me right back there. They evoke the two things we love about bicycle touring - the bicycling, and the touring.

Ten miles west of San Sebastian in the Basque Country
Heart 5 Comment 0
Barcelona and the Mediterranean beyond
Heart 5 Comment 0
Cap de Formentor lighthouse, at the northern tip of Mallorca
Heart 6 Comment 0
The castle above Zahara de la Sierra in Andalucia
Heart 5 Comment 0

Spain is a fantastic place to ride a bike. It helps a lot that motorists respect the 1.5 meter bicycle passing law. For us, most of the riding was low-stress. And my goodness there is so much to see here - gorgeous sea and mountain vistas, groves of olive and orange trees, architectural treasures that go back 2,000 years to the Roman era.

We could hop around the country on trains and buses with the folders, and get around on public transit in the bigger cities. The fall weather is so pleasant in Spain. There were just a few rainy days, all when we were sightseeing on foot. Cordoba was warm and sunny in November, and we had a beautiful afternoon to ride at the end of the trip in Madrid.

Of all the regions we rode through, Andalucia is the one that captivated me. I had no notion of the sophisticated Moorish culture that flourished there in the Middle Ages. Between the exquisite Islamic temples, pueblos blancos, flamenco culture, and the sunny Mediterranean coast, I couldn't get enough of southern Spain. I hope we'll get back there someday.

Once again the Bike Fridays showed off their versatility on all kinds of terrain, but they did throw a few curveballs our way. The day Barry's panniers absconded off his rack into a vineyard in southern France was a long one. After we recovered the bags, he had to fix two flats and took a tumble down a hill by the Canal du Midi. That was the start of a rash of mechanical issues over a couple of weeks - two broken brakes, a missing rack screw, a loose headset, and four more flats. All fixable, but tedious.

We were introduced to the Fun Scale on our journey along the Canal du Midi. This particular afternoon was packed with Type Two Fun, that is, fun that is decidedly un-fun at the time, but fun with the passage of time, or at least funny.
Heart 3 Comment 0

I don't know how Barry handles all these challenges with such cheery calm. After he replaced my rear tire in Mallorca the problems subsided and we didn't use any of the spare tubes we bought there. Even with these hiccups, the bikes have proven their mettle for travel in Europe. We look forward to taking them back there, whenever that may be.

In the weeks since returning we have gradually reconnected with our people and life at home. And we do love being home, make no mistake about that. There's a lot to catch up on.

Hiking with the gals
Heart 3 Comment 0
Leaves corralled, for the moment. The pitiful flower beds will have to wait for a spring when we're not off somewhere on the bike. Could be awhile.
Heart 1 Comment 0
Christmas cookie bake-off with my nieces
Heart 3 Comment 0
Ronan smashing up candy canes for the next batch of cookies
Heart 4 Comment 0
Barry has moved on to a bigger project - replacing our aging deck with composite boards that won't rot.
Heart 2 Comment 0

I have channeled my obsession with Spain into a tapas fiesta for Barry's 75th birthday next week. Today I'm doing a practice session to try out a batch of Croquetas con Jamon y Queso. So far I'm up to nine tapas on the menu, plus holiday cookies and cake. Too much? 

Barry's portrait with Neptune at the Turia Fountain in Valencia is perfect for invitations to the party.
Heart 4 Comment 2
Rachael AndersonI love that photo!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonHe loves it too!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago

I might check back in here on Barry's fiesta, or possibly a slideshow, but will call this a wrap for now. There are future trips to plan. We'll be in Tucson for a month starting January 7th, and in Key West in late March to start a tour up the Atlantic coast to...somewhere.

I am thankful to all of you who have followed along and cheered us on. We so enjoy reading your comments. You make us feel as though you are traveling along with us and egg me on to keep plugging away on the journal. However long it takes, it's worth it to hold on to the details, so we can come back and relive the experience.

Hasta la Proxima!
Heart 7 Comment 2
Rachael AndersonWhat a great photo! I sure loved Gibraltar when we were there!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Rachael AndersonThanks! I'm so glad we made time for the day trip to Gibraltar, totally worth it.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago

November 18: 21 miles, 1290 feet of ascent 

For the tour: 1,002 miles, 65,360 feet of ascent

Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 1,002 miles (1,613 km)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 11
Comment on this entry Comment 21
Bill ShaneyfeltGreat tour! Thanks for posting!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Anne MathersJanice, I loved reading your journal so big thanks from me (and David, too) for all your late nights and attention to detail. For some mysterious reason, I saw zero typos. How do you do that? You have a wonderful balance of weaving a story as you describe where you went and what you experienced. You have a special talent is all I can say. As for the physical side, you both performed admirably… no slouching on this tour! Well, except for Barry almost landing in the Canal due Midi 😁. We are flying to Madrid in May and are ready to be captivated by Andalucia for its terrain and exotic cultural aspects. I located a hotel that’s going to hold our samsonites for 5 weeks and did a happy dance when I received the news today. Enjoy Tucson.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Patrick O'HaraLoved following along. Thanks for sharing your adventure.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Scott AndersonTerrific journal and journey, Janice! Thanks for including us in it. See you in Tucson soon!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Suzanne GibsonThanks for taking us along for the ride!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Angela NaefThanks for a great journal! I loved following along.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Kelly IniguezWe shall see you in Tucson! Which bikes are you bringing?
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Bill ShaneyfeltHey Bill, thanks for enlightening us on the flowers we saw.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Anne MathersThank you for your kind words Anne! I am a slow writer and prone to getting lost running down rabbit trails to find out stuff. Glad you found a home for your suitcases. You are going to love Andalucia. I look forward to the story.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick! Looking forward to following your next adventure.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Scott AndersonThanks for all your advice along the way. Getting excited about Tucson! I haven't acclimated to cold weather riding yet this season, looking forward to heading south.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Suzanne GibsonThanks Suzanne! I appreciate all your encouraging words.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Angela NaefThanks Angela!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Kelly IniguezOoh, good question. Definitely the recumbents and the mountain bikes. I'm hoping the Bike Friday will fit in there somewhere too.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Keith AdamsWonderful recap and wrap-up!

"in Key West in late March to start a tour up the Atlantic coast to...somewhere."

If "somewhere" extends as far as the DC area, please consider a stopover at my place in the Maryland. Suburbs. Allow several days if you do- loads to see, do, and experience within an hour's drive.

Depending on the timing I may even make a tour myself, from Charlotte back home, via a route I'll have designed myself. Perhaps we might coordinate and share some miles on the way?
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Rich FrasierI loved this journal and looked forward to every update. You did a great job of capturing the magic in words and pictures. I know it took a lot of effort - thanks!!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Betsy EvansWhat a great trip you had! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Keith AdamsWhat a lovely invitation, thank you! We really don't have a plan for how far to go. This will be our first time winging it on a bike trip. Other than the first few nights in the Keys, we have no reservations. We'll just head north for a couple of months or so until it feels like time to go home, then rent an SUV to get home. If Maryland looks within reach we plan to take the ACA coastal route through Delaware, although I haven't yet figured out the shuttle over the Chesapeake Bay bridge. Rockville is a bit of a detour, but this early in the game I wouldn't rule anything out.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Rich FrasierThank you Rich! There sure was a lot of magic on this tour. We're glad to have the story to look back on. Looking forward to the further advantages of Rich, Robin and Schnooks.
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Betsy EvansThanks Betsy!
Reply to this comment
11 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Rich Frasier*adventures, not advantages, sheesh
Reply to this comment
11 months ago