October 15, 2023
Millau to Le Caylar
Another Gorgeous Gorge
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At one point we had considered taking the train out of Millau. We must get back to Barcelona in time for our flight home and that seemed like a reasonable idea. Three problems though, first, neither of us really wanted to take a train. It just seemed like a sensible idea. With further research we found out maintenance on the tracks meant there are no trains, only buses, and finally, because we would be in Millau on a Sunday, only one bus in the very late afternoon, arriving in Beziérs in the dark. That made it easy to decide that we would ride. Thank goodness we did. The Gorges de la Dourbie and the Larzac (a karstic massif, culminating at 921 meters) was a fantastic ride.
We left Millau at our usual 10:30, but warmly dressed. Things that haven’t seen the light of day since we packed them away in Victoria were retrieved from the bottom of the panniers. It was a chilly 13°C at the time. By the time we were 5 km into the ride we had both removed multiple layers, but there is no question, fall has arrived.
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The ride was beautiful from the start. Not as dramatic as yesterday’s ride, but still so over the top we would recommend it to anyone. Atmospheric villages, limestone cliffs, La Dourbie river and general awesomeness.
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One note of interest today happened while we were stopped in a sweet little village, La Roque Sainte Marguerite. Who should roar by at a gazillion kph? The impressive cars from the other day. I can now report, not a Lamborghini, it is a Ferrari (red of course) two Porsches and a Mercedes. I know this because we passed them later when they were parked and I could take a better look. All the growly showy kind of their particular make. They passed us two more times today and it felt like The Tortoise and the Hare.
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We stopped for lunch in Nant. It was after this that the landscape really started to change, opening up, and today’s climb began.
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Then we arrived at La Couvertoirade. I have no idea how that is pronounced!! It is a fortified medieval city. To quote the information I was given “Untouched by time, La Couvertoirade is an authentic medieval village. Founded by the knights Templar, enlarged, enriched and fortified by the knights Hospitaller” and a whole lot more. Google it. It was a hoot to walk around.
This whole area, the Gorges de la Dourbie and the Causse du Larzac and Causse Noir has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 2011. It is really worth seeing.
Then it was the last few km into Le Caylar where we are staying in the Gites du Caylar. If you ever have a chance, stay here. Huge room and so lovely I tried to talk Keith into granola bars for dinner so I didn’t have to leave. That didn’t fly. We should have taken pictures of the room before the panniers exploded.
We both loved this ride. We felt so happy to be in such a beautiful place, on our bicycles, and so grateful we didn’t take the train.
Here is the Relive:
Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 1,101 km (684 miles)
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