Gruissan to Canet en Roussillon

October 18, 2023

Flamingos, More Puddles and a Headwind

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It was a total turn around in the weather today. We were back to shorts and jersey riding. All the wet gear disappeared back into the panniers, sunscreen was applied and we were off.

We explored Gruissan this morning before we left. It is a pretty little town and it would have been nice to have a bit more time. The disadvantage of autumn touring is that days are getting shorter and that really cuts into our explore time.

I was in the bakery when Keith took this shot.

Once we left town we were completely captivated by flamingos. We have seen them before, but never so up close and personal. We spent quite awhile just watching. Their necks are fascinating and their wingspan, oh my. The tops of their wings were a very bright pink. We were both enjoying the spectacle so much.

Once we tore ourselves away from the birds we pointed the bikes into a significant headwind and started to pedal. Where we were watching the flamingos I had noticed minor road flooding and we came over a rise to major road flooding. A combination of tide and wind we surmise. The absolute nicest man in a truck stopped on the highway and reversed to see if we wanted to throw the bikes in the back and he would drive us across. So kind. We figured we were okay, and fortunately we were.

Yikes. Not at the same time as a car, that’s for sure.

Turned out to be drama free. Much shallower on the edge of our side of the road than in the middle.

Shortly after that we were back doing some of our ride up the coast in reverse. Funny thing, it looked completely different going the other way and we kept asking each other if we remembered this landmark or that.

Lots of flooding on the roads today. The wind really was blowing.

We came to the part where we had ridden the ridiculously rough track next to the railway (which we had no plans to repeat) and we were stunned. This is the route our friends John and Darlene and the Grampies took just the other day. They wouldn’t have been doing it today!!

Here is why it was so rough. This must happen regularly leaving only the rough rocks behind. It was completely flooded and impassable.

We came into Leucate differently from the way we left, with some D road riding. Keith’s bike picked up a branch on the highway. I saw it and called to him, but not before the silly thing wrapped itself all the way around his rear cassette. This required highway side minor surgery with needle nosed pliers to remove. Shortly after that we were on a bike path and soon having a picnic in Leucate.

Like almost all the roads, such a smooth surface.

Now this was a strange surface and a new one for us. Like chipseal, but using large stones instead of fine gravel. Very rideable though.

From that point on it was waterfront and bike paths. As the CN said, he had forgotten how easy this route is. We met a lovely young couple from Holland along here, and we exchanged picture taking. He was engaging and she was shy and I predict a bright future for them.

Such great young people. I love this picture and hope they do too.

I need to do a little research on this monument.

We went for a beach walk as soon as we checked into our hotel. The size of this beach is incredible. Then a wonderful dinner beachside, sandy feet and all.

We are trying to decide how best to use our five remaining cycling days. We have no regrets about not taking the train from Millau to Béziers, but it is making planning these last few days interesting. So will we go inland tomorrow or stay on the coast? We aren’t sure.

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 1,326 km (823 miles)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	7

Steve Miller/GrampiesWe are still hoping to see you somewhere between here and Barcelona which we should reach, by train from Girona, on Saturday midday. Here's hoping!
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1 year ago

David MathersIt’s amazing all that can happen in one day cycle touring. Flamingo pictures are fantastic along with the documentation of the parting of the floods with your bikes. The lean of the palm trees 🌴 definitely shows how windy it gets!
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1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonA day full of beauty
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1 year ago

Anne MathersIf you have another moderate climb in your legs and some decent weather, I can recommend the route over to Campodron and then Ripoll. The train (which would takes bikes… an important consideration) goes from Ripoll to Barcelona, but there is so much gorgeous scenery in that region that you wouldn’t want to miss out on. Just a thought.
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesSteve - I will sent you an email tonight as to our plans over the next few days so hopefully we can make it work.
Keith
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenTo Anne MathersThanks Anne for the suggestion. I think we will be running out of time to get over to that area. But certainly will have a closer look with your train to Barcelona suggestion.
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1 year ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Suzanne GibsonIt really was. A day to remember when we wonder why we travel this way!!
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1 year ago