Albi to Plaisance

October 8, 2023

Biking Up the River Tarn

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We started the day lingering over breakfast of course, and when we decided to get serious about leaving Albi, Keith couldn’t find his tail light. Much looking by both of us ensued and we came to the conclusion that he must have left it on his bike. We usually bring them into the room to charge. We both do what we call a sweep of the room before leaving, and as Keith headed out the door he suggested I give the room one last check. I had put on my flashy new sunglasses and saw something on the floor by a floor lamp. Off with the sunglasses and it turned out to be the neatly coiled cord for the lamp. That is when I noticed about 2 cm of the strap for Keith’s tail light. The light was under the lamp base. I kid you not. It was a minor miracle I saw it. Keith remembered moving the lamp but hadn’t realized he had moved it on top of his light. We felt pretty lucky.

Then it was downstairs to give the bikes a wash with the hotel hose and oil the chains. The Chief Mechanic got to work while his sidekick held the bikes. Mine was purring like a kitten when he was done.

We had an easy exit out of Albi, almost entirely on bike lanes. We stopped in Artes after crossing a bridge and got our first glimpse of what kind of scenery we might see in the next few days. There was a huge hydroelectric installation there.

Beautiful old building in Albi across from the Tourist Information Office dedicated to the Tarn, which was of course, closed.

We stopped at a bakery and got an amazing view.

Then we sailed along and the riding was easy. Until we came to where we were to turn right and go down to the river. You guessed it, Route Baree. It was quite a way down and we had no idea if we could get through. We wouldn’t have been happy if we had to climb back up! So after a great deal of discussion we decided to go with the detour.

Red line is the detour. Blue line is where we wanted to be. Do you see that cliff on the Ride with GPS profile? That is the detour.

I was seriously starting to question my fitness level on this climb. It made El Angels and Col de Banyuls feel like a walk in the park. It finally occurred to both of us that the problem wasn’t the very steep grade, although that didn’t help. The problem was that it was completely unremitting. No sections that flattened out a bit or relief from the grade. It was quite a climb. It was lovely to pop out at the top and then back down to the river.

Amazing old stone buildings along the route.

We think these are geese. What a racket. Both of us thought something was wrong with our bikes from a distance. Then we rounded a bend and realized where the sound was coming from.

By lunchtime we were in Ambialet. The restaurant where we were hoping we could score a cold drink was full, but across the bridge was another one with room.

No Lemon Fanta but Orangina hit the spot.

Then we rode to the next bench and one of the most beautiful picnic spots this tour. We sat and soaked up the sun and the scenery.

We both found the ride beautiful. I had low expectations for the day. Maybe that is the secret to really enjoying a ride? The CN had warned me there was one more big climb at the end, but it was easier than the first detour climb.

We arrived at our hotel in Plaisance to be warmly greeted and welcomed with a cold beer. This is such a unique property. We were given a tour and were charmed. The other interesting thing though, is that there are 22 rooms and we are the only guests. Claudia and Kari kindly made us dinner as the restaurant is closed for the season and there is nothing else open here. There is one more restaurant but it is a Sunday in France.

Where we enjoyed a delicious dinner and wine.

Claudia told us that as we are the only guests we should just make the place our own. We can’t believe how beautiful it is here. We went for an evening walk up to the church and the town is dead as a doornail, and not just in the cemetery around the church. We once more feel like the apocalypse has happened and we missed it. Quite a contrast to busy Albi.

It will be a peaceful night after a great day. We feel tired and very relaxed.

Here is today’s Relive:

https://www.relive.cc/view/veqzoypQ97v

Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 778 km (483 miles)

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