Day 68: Caminha to Esposende

May 8, 2023

Now I'm miffed! After studying that shower control carefully, I got in there and could not make anything happen! Further research showed that the panel showers did not work, the control for the hand held was not as labelled and the independent temperature control was true but only had a choice of three levels. Despite all this, I did not try the option of calling in reception for help!

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Down by reception, where our bikes were stored, we noted the packs of Camino walkers. The packs are there to be picked up by transport companies, who will bring them to the next hotel along the line. Although in principle we could meet Camino walkers anywhere, the paths are converging in this area, and they have become a big component of our daily experience. We have encountered almost no touring cyclists in Portugal, so it's fun to be sharing the breakfast rooms, lobbies, and roads with people who at least look somewhat like us: dusty, outfitted by Decathlon, and probably lost.

The Compostella mystique is fun. The owner of this pack is clearly into it. But how did they get those patches before getting to Santiago?

Out in front of our hotel, we took in for a last time the beautiful square and buildings of Caminha. Then we passed through the edge of town and out to the estuary.

Our nice hotel, with the flaky elevator and shower, but nice.

The Norfolk Island Pine is seen a lot here, but never so huge as this one, in the middle of town.

The sketch of falling into the water captures the anxiety of riding this edge.

Here is an iconic shot! p.s. That's Spain on the other side.

This guy was moving fast and hard to capture.

Now began again the "age old" struggle about EV 1. That lovely bit by the water, with the boats and Spain and all had been EV 1. So why not stick with it, as it headed out to and along the Atlantic? The answer was soon clear, and we were soon pushing through sand, or bumping on pavers. But we stuck it out and emerged to the Atlantic, where we found a very nice path, much in use by Camino walkers, not mention goats and sheep. Above all, here we were back at the open ocean, with the spectacularly beautiful beaches. All we needed was for the path to carry on, and we could have cycling ecstasy.

Just 'cause it's a nice forest, does not get us to Esposende!

Here we see the coastal path, with Camino walkers.

EV 1 in this area is using the "Ecovia Do Litoral Norte". As we see, it needs work. But one can not rely on the map, which is of unknown age.

One could rest at the Santo Isidoro Chapel, built in the 19th century for peregrinos. But it's shut!

Here is a Norfolk Island pine of more standard shape and size. We saw many today.

At Ancora beach there was an unidentified little fort. Also a troupe of kids, all in yellow hats, clearly out for an adventure of some type.

The path shifted inland to a lagoon area, and on a sandbar we spotted a couple of cormorants, and also some ducks.

EV 1 was still our friend, and we were taken on a boardwalk through lush vegetation.

There was lots of yellow iris. The yellow iris likes wet areas, and can even be seen at home.

As the EV 1 boardwalk crosses a stream, we see walkers, cyclists, and the general public, out enjoying it.

EV 1 now took the opportunity to deteriorate to cobbles, not even pavers, and we took the opportunity to make a bee line for a real road. On the way we came upon a young man sitting with a daypack, in the open sun by the roadside. Dodie asked if he was ok. The answer came, but though he spoke good English we had a hard time getting his story straight. We think he was from Russia, having left to avoid the draft. He was looking for a place of safety, maybe trying to get to Paris - first by finding a certain boat captain here who was going to take him to France. Had the story been more coherent, we might have weighed in more. But as it was, we gave him some few euros and wished him well, leaving him in the middle of nowhere, by the trailside.

We got onto the highway, with a good shoulder as shown, and Steve was humming along. But Dodie longed for the sea and the promise of an EV1 excursion down there.

On that highway, we reached Viana in really good time.

Before we reached downtown Viana, a man came from behind and spoke to us. He lived in Viana and liked to cycle this region. He said he had four bikes, of differing capabilities. Today he was on his road bike, but he did not recommend we follow him on the road. Rather he pointed out a bike path just beside the road, claiming we could go far on that. He was an interesting man, rather old. He told us that he had been a teacher of small children, and that now he liked to meet people, like us, and record his impressions in a journal. That would be a lot like us.

We carried on toward downtown Viana on the roadside cycleway the man had shown us. Soon we came to a large plantation, in which some sort of plant had been densely set out on a carefully plotted grid. What was this? Roses? We took several shots in hopes someone will have an explanation.

I think that grid is strings, not just something printed on the material.

True to form, the trail deteriorated again. But we could still look at the sea, and soon the pavement came back as we were almost in Viana town.

We stopped for lunch in a park, where we found stone benches in the shade - a cool combination. In the park were many bottle brush trees, planted in neat rows. This tree can be small, like the ones shown, or it can be really full sized. In all cases it attracts, as Scott has pointed out, a lot of bees. I wanted to get a close shot of some of the bees, which were of two types, but given that the flowers were about six feet off the ground, I could not get a traditional "macro" shot. The camera does have several (four) "focus modes", with names that include "macro zoom", but I have no idea how to work this, and I see it is only available in "program" mode, not "auto" mode. When I get home and have some days to kill, I will re-read the 406 page manual of this clever machine, figure it out, and come back to these trees!

Here beyond the bottle brushes are a group of cyclists, obviously on a guided tour, each with one pannier bag. Perhaps their main gear is being carried by van to their next hotel.

We had a bit more really good bikeway, going into Viana.

On a hill high above the town, we zoomed in on this fancy looking church. It's the Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, on the Monte de Santa Luzia. It is quite recent, from the late 19th century.

The fort of Santiago da Barra, from about the 15th century. Dodie could see its polygonal design on the GPS. The design is from Filippo de Terzi the most famous designer of military buildings of the time.

We are making determinedly for the bridge over the Lima river, so we can continue south. But I took a peek down a side street and saw this.

As we approached the bridge, we passed a fishing boat harbour, and watched two come in. One striking thing was that the crew appeared to be Asian, though I could not pinpoint the country. There is surely a story to that.

He is from a smoking, cell phone culture - that does not help much with ID!

This ship from 1955 was a hospital ship, supporting the cod fishing industry on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. It became derelict in the Port of Lisbon and was scheduled for demolition. But a TV based campaign saved it, and it is now permanently moored as a museum and 60 bed youth hostel.

Viana buildings by the river, and the church beyond.

The bridge over the Lima is another thing designed by Eiffel here. We found it to be long, scary, and windy.

Looking for a way onto the bridge. This is not it!

The bridge over the Lima had a walkway on either side, but one was blocked off. That forced people to encounter each other on the narrow walk on the one side only. It took some cooperation to get safely around each other.

The walkway is narrow and the bridge is long!

The cyclist on the left is taking a big risk, for himself and the drivers.

We have been looking for "traditional" Portuguese scenes. How about this? This rig has the distinction of being specifically pictured on the sign banning people, bikes, and other riff raff from the autovias.

I have had the ambition of building a bread/pizza oven for some time, but have yet to do it. Yet we have seen these for sale all around Portugal. I need one of the statuary shops to mail me one!

Beyond Viana we had hoped to return to a seaside route, but even EV 1 seemed to be sticking to the highway. There was not too much of interest, but here below was at least one pretty church.

Not too much of interest, but there was a good shoulder!

Finally we hit the outskirts of Esposende, and with it a new and beautiful bikeway. Note also the clean white seaside appearance of the houses.

Along this way, Dodie spotted a Siamese cat, way out in the salt marsh and sitting stock still. I don't know how she spots these things. I stared for a while to make sure it was not a lump pf earth or wood. This kitty did not twitch a muscle for the whole time we were squinting at it.

Our hotel this time is out of town, along that bikeway with the seaside looking buildings. That means no downtown strolling. Maybe tomorrow, as we continue south. Dodie meanwhile is hurting a bit - the bruise from that fall is coming out more. We have her safely in bed now, and tomorrow for sure she will be back at it!

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 2,844 km (1,766 miles)

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