Day 30: Huelva to Paterna del Campo - Grampies Iberian Inquisition Spring 2023 - CycleBlaze

March 31, 2023

Day 30: Huelva to Paterna del Campo

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Huelva no doubt has some old and attractive areas, but in our transit through the place the closest we could compare it to was parts of Vancouver. For us, that is not a very great compliment.

Vancouver? No, too dense for that.
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Outskirts of most cities have the same ring of car dealerships.
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A little more out of town and we got onot our really nice road, the A-472, and began to see some pleasing things. One was a one off random hacienda, in the middle of a grain field. Another was a really one off  random flamingo, and then a pair of black winged stilts.

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Wow, a flamingo!
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Stilts
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But the really big deal for us today came as we began to pass through a series of little villages. We found these to have a unique architecture with respect to their typical buildings. These are row houses, featuring balconies, grill work, tiling, and interestingly, a variety of finials mounted on flat roofs.

To this is added churches that have been built after the earthquake (1755) and which are in a really attractive Baroque style.

The first town up for us was like this . We looked at the interesting streets and headed for the church. The church appeared to be locked tight, so I was ready to just carry on. But Dodie had some kind of twitch to her nose, and she just kept noodling around the church, drawing some exasperated "Can we just go?"'s from me. But soon Dodie was around the back, and she found what you see in the second photo below!

San Juan del Puerto
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Dodie strikes a paso - Semana Santa parade
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These are just kids in make do outfits, and they pause to have a look at me.
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Back to business
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Ben ParkeI can only assume the cultural meaning of these masks is much different than it would be in the southern part of the USA….
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Ben ParkeAbsolutely. These are the originals and date back many hundreds? of years. The awful group of southern US yahoos co-opted the symbol of the hats and ruined it for everyone.
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Here comes the float!
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The back door of the church had been opened for the float, allowing me to leak in. As we have begun to see, they tend to park a lot of floats and stuff in the churches.

A somewhat dare I say Moorish Jesus, ready to go, with his three - what are those things in place by his head?
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Andrea BrownJesus wasn't blonde and blue-eyed, that we can be pretty sure of.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Andrea BrownTrue. He probably looked more like Steve, dark hair and beard, shorter stature, darker skin tones, etc.
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Mary with appropriate crown.
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Nice general (non mobile) decoration of the church.
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A Mary with crown and a "Baby Jesus". I like the way the little guy has that hand signal figured out.
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Lovely benches in front of the church
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We took to the road again, really appreciating the broad shoulder and low traffic volume. The traffic is on the big road, which we crossed over.

Our road
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The other road!
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Our road took us to Niebla, which is a walled city. It was interesting to look at inside, with the design of the houses, and out, with the design of the walls. The walls are based on Roman foundations,  and then have Moorish design, followed by Gothic additions.

The wall and some buildings
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The town has a complete wall.
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Moorish design in the wall
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Town buildings
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A typical street
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We had more good fortune as we came to the Santa Maria de la Granada church, where we found people touching up a float. There were other parked floats as well!

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Mary, ready to "roll"!
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Moorish courtyard
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A tree had decided to adorn Dodie with a natural hair decoration. I think it looked good!
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Bill ShaneyfeltMulberry blooms?
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Bill ShaneyfeltReally haven't got a clue. Cannot recall the tree.
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Bill ShaneyfeltScroll down to the photo of male blooms.

https://thepolycultureproject.medium.com/mo-mulberry-the-essential-guide-to-all-you-need-to-know-about-mulberry-28a0c11b611
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We left town via the "Sevilla" gate, naturally, and soon used a Roman bridge to cross an arroyo. These things felt sufficientl historical!

The Roman bridge
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So we passed an equestrian centre, where one horse looked very spirited and Spanish. Some nice while horses were also using some "gym equipment" in the form of an exercise ring where they followed a moving barrier. I wondered how long they could keep circling the thing, but realized it could be very long, given how we were then setting off for some more or less infinite pedaling.

Some Spanish action.
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Using the gym equipment.
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Vilarrasa was up next for us, with again the row houses and the interesting churches, of not that ancient construction.

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The first church we came upon.
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The other side seems to be looking at us.
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A second, nice church, begun in 1988.
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The land hereabouts is rolling and pleasant.
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La Palma del Condado was one of our final towns.
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The streets are so pleasant.
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And the church not only of striking design but covered with tiles, and storks.
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The church square
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In the square
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The church is 18th century Baroque style
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Comes with live stork finial!
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Rachael AndersonBeautiful photo!
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Lovely steeple design
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Swallow's nest up on the church.
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Got this glimpse of a baby swallow.
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Another town street.
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Kelly IniguezThey must be very good at parallel parking!
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Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Kelly IniguezNo kidding, all the cars are in tight to the curb and close together. Wonder how they get in to an empty spot, or out to create one for that matter?
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A magpie at rest?
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Amazingly we did visit two more towns, with their unique streets and churches, but I am going to  skim by them, because the idea of the day is well established. I will leave in one last tower and one last stork!

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At last we did a swoop to our home for the night, in Paterna del Campo. It was swoop at first, but then a climb!

The swoop.
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For the first time since England we were doing a small room above a pub. When we got there, the noise was so loud I expected to see dozens of people. Instead there were but a few people, but each was a noise making expert. While waiting for Dodie to make arrangements, I observed three women and two men at a table, making an awful racket. Their technique was to shout toward each other, all simultaneously. Inside, three men on a six foot bar were bellowing toward each other with amazing volume. The English, at least, needed quite a crowd to be similarly obnoxious.

These ordinary looking people are noise experts.
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Our dinky room actually works.
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Kelly IniguezWe have booked quite a few rooms with two beds because we are afraid that the single bed rooms will be what we call double beds here in the USA. To your experience, are the single beds typically queen size, or smaller?
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1 year ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Kelly IniguezIn general two bed rooms are twins, like in the photo. Each bed is small, suitable for one person. Often though, especially in more pricey places, a one bed room will contain a generous queen size, or even a king. We have found a few rooms where the one bed was barely a double. That is when you need to be good friends with your sleeping partner.
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1 year ago
Kelly IniguezTo Steve Miller/GrampiesLooking at the lodging photos, many of the single bed rooms appeared to have small beds. I mostly erred on the side of caution and chose two beds. Unless the listing specifically said the size of the bed, which they seldom did. It will all be an adventure for us. This is our first trip riding overseas. June 12th is our departure date.
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1 year ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Kelly IniguezWe have a double at home and most of the beds on recent trips have been bigger. I remember saggy narrow beds from our first European trip together in 1992, but I don’t know how much of that is due to a different time or our current better budget.
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Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 1,200 km (745 miles)

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