To Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

May 31, 2024

Back to the Basque country

We were holding off booking a room for tonight until we had a better feel for the weather. Our plan was to ride to the famous Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port where many walkers begin their month long, 800km pilgrimage to to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. We stayed there last October before our ride into Spain. It is an interesting and busy historic town and worth seeing again.

The weather was looking quite dry (we cannot say warm!) so we tried to book the same small hotel where we had stayed previously but they were showing full on booking.com. We sent two messages to them but unfortunately we did not receive any response. With very few other choices we went ahead and booked a hotel just down the same street that had no reviews but looked nice and was new to booking.com.

We woke to clear skies and were excited about not having any weather issues with the day`s ride. Domaine Agerria has a large breakfast area but only two other guests were having breakfast. We enjoyed the excellent fare and the calm atmosphere. We watched a black cloud come in and it began to rain quite heavily. It was a bit concerning how quickly the weather had changed.

Cows on the hill in the morning rays. We always think that they have great lives in rural France.

Pat loading up in the court yard of Domaine Agerria. It has truly been an oasis for us.

Our route today from Mauléon-Licharre to Saint Jean Pied du Port started with a 300 metre climb up to Col d`Osquich. Pat thought that she was done with cols but in fact we rode up two today and one was by her own choice. What has gotten into that girl?

We were loosely following the suggested RIDE WITH GPS ¨Raid Pyrenean Randonneur OFFICIAL¨ according to their route notes, ¨This is a route between all 18 cols on the Randonneur raid. This needs to be accomplished in 100 hours for the official medal.¨ That is coast to coast through the Peyrenees mountains in less than 5 days!!

Back to our reality, climbing began almost immediately upon leaving Mauléon-Licharre but the route up Col d`Osquich was often around a 5% grade and quite an enjoyable ride. The kilometres went by quickly and we were soon layering up for the the ride down. It was on a wide open two lane road with smooth surface and a "no need to brake" grade. Love these!

Larger view of the valley on the north side of the pass. Lots of clouds in the area but not too threatening at the moment.

Nearing the top, the south side valley is looking much brighter.

Col d`Qsquich is only about a 300 metre climb but a nice start to the day.

We put our jackets back on to head down there.

Great road with --- No need to brake grade!

We then chose to go up to Col de Gamia rather than ride the D933 highway route which, surprisingly, is the Raid Pyrenean Randonneur OFFICIAL routing. I guess if you are going to complete the thing in 100 hours some highways have to be ridden. We choose to avoid them.

It was a bit tougher ride, but for sure much more enjoyable than the highway. Col de Gambia is very steep once you pass the farm land and it heads up -- at least a couple of kilometres of 10+ % grades. It was a quiet single lane road so we zigged zagged back and forth to make our way up the steepest sections. It was that steep!

We startled these goats! They immediately started running single file to cross the road and reach higher ground before we get there!

Almost all have made it to safety! Their calling out was so loud - a real cacophony of different "baas". Quite the sight and sound!

Working on my bird pictures but I do not think that this guy was impressed and showed his disapproval.

Heading down. This pass was much steeper and full braking was required.

Very threatening skies now with a few showers around.

We did not see a col sign at the top, just a bunch of goats. The directional signage will have to do. Notice that we are now in Basque country so both the French and Basque names are used on signs.

This way to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port for walkers and cyclists alike.

We reached Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port a little after two o`clock and were quite hungry. We stopped at a restaurant for their mushroom omelette special and some coffee before proceeding to find our room for the night at number 5 Rue d'Espagne. We easily found it but the door was very plain and there was no signage to indicate it was la Maison LAURENTZENIA. We knocked on the door and there was no answer but we were early as check did not start until 4 PM. We took our bikes around the back and confirmed from the pictures on Booking.com that this was indeed the place. We decided to leave our bikes in between the buildings and go for a walk and come back later.

We had returned to the front and knocked again when a lady from the shop across the street came and spoke to us. She said they were not open yet and would be opening on June 1st. Did we book the wrong day?? But after a phone call, all was confirmed as okay and they would arrive at 4pm. Another housing crisis averted!

Back up Rue d'Espagne we passed through the gates into the oldest part of the town and up a short incline to Maison Simonenia where we had stayed last year. Through the window, Scott noticed the lady who had found his cell phone in the bed and chased us down the street as we were riding out town. We were so appreciative of her efforts that we wanted to thank her again. We began talking and explained that we were sad that they were full tonight and we could not stay with her. ¨Where are you staying?¨ Pat`s reply ¨ la Maison LAURENTZENIA¨. In almost a scream, ¨that is our new place! We open for the first night tonight!¨ She was so excited and you cannot believe the howls of laughter. Anyway, long story short - she immediately led us down the street to the front door. We were her very first guests in the new building. Two years in development, eight suites and a pool and boy is it nice. It was such fun!

Pat and Catharine heading to our hotel, La Maison Laurentzenia.

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Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 978 km (607 miles)

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Rachael AndersonWhat a great day!
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6 months ago