To Rennes les Bains - You stole my wheels and that's what really hurts - CycleBlaze

May 18, 2024

To Rennes les Bains

The weather has been a bit mixed lately but for the most part if there has been rain, it has been late in the day or overnight. We have consistantly made it to our destinations dry. This morning the skies were cloudy but began to clear as we left Cucugnan at 10:30 am. We each wore three layers as it was brisk even with a short climb right out the door. But the sun was peaking through and the views of the surrounding mountains were really wonderful.

Today`s ride to Renne les Bains is not very complicated, or really hard or very long.  In a nutshell it is 25kms up 350 metres and 15KM down 350 metres. It was a  beautiful scenic ride entirely on a fabulous, bike friendly D18 highway. You cannot go wrong with this one.

Saying good bye to the hotel manager in Cucugnan.
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Across the street you can buy fresh free range eggs at a pretty good price.
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I wish that my succulents looked like this!
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Looking down the valley as we leave Cucugnan.
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Looking behind us. This is the village of Cucugnan on the small hill.
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We are heading for that impressive rock face. There is actually an old castle up there.
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Another shot of the road and the surrounding area.
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You can see the road heading down a bit here. It was very quiet with almost no traffic on this Saturday morning.
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Very green. Very hilly.
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This dog (Great Pyrenees I believe) heard us talking as we were making our way up the hill on the road above. He came over to make sure his sheep were safe! He looks great in the field of broom.
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Getting closer but the climb up has yet to really begin.
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Château De Peyrepertuse at the top of the rock. Our route took us around to the north side where it is more visible.
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Looking down onto the valley.
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The village of Duilhac-Sous-Peyrepertuse.
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Lots of signs gives Pat interesting reading material as she waits for Scott. We are going to the right.
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The north side view. The castle dates back to before 1000 AD. In 1659, it was abandoned and decommissioned as a strategic place. It was sold as a national asset in 1820 and its ruins remain to this day.
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A closer look at the castle. Hard to believe how much effort would be necessary to build those walls up there!
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This picturesque coffee stop was in Soultatgé. The lady that runs the restaurant was very kind to us.
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Col number one.
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Donkeys in the grass.
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We passed this cycle group while they we enjoying their lunch. They were all on road bikes and none were e-bikes. We think they were part of an organized tour.
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Col number two. Really not much higher than col number one. In fact it is not even at the top of today`s ride where there was no col sign! But it is a col and a col is a col and a photo is required.
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As good a place as any for a quick break along this road. There is still some climbing left to do.
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The vegatation has changed from the valley and we are now riding through a heavily forested area before crossing into the next valley.
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Coming down the other side, the mountain peaks are in the clouds.
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We are a bit concerned about getting wet before we reach our destination.
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The group that was having their lunch has now caught up and are heading down. A fun and fast down hill but it is a bit cool and an extra layer is needed.
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The tour group gathers part way down the hill at the Bugarach sign. Fun fact about Bugarach: Has two narrow streets, 176 residents and according to a prophecy/internet rumour, an ancient Mayan calendar had predicted the end of the world would happen on the night of 21 December 2012. The only place on earth that would be saved would be the sleepy village of Bugarach. Must have been interesting times.
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Interesting rock faces.
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All downhill to Rennes les Bains.
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Rennes les Bains was not selected as our overnight spot for any particular reason except that it had places to stay and it was roughly the distance that we wanted to ride. It is a small rural town but also a spa resort known since ancient times. This small village is located in the tourist region of the upper Aude valley and its centre is crossed by the river Sals. In the past, spas must have been very popular as an overnight destination. The covid years did shut the facilities down completely and we see that many tourist businesses did not survive. On this Saturday of a holiday weekend in France, the town is very quiet. The hotels appear to be a shadow of their best years and only one restaurant was open. Even still we enjoyed our stay in Rennes les Bains.

Yesterday I ordered a beer and Picon was added. Today I discovered what it is: a caramel-coloured bitter that traditionally accompanies beer in the East and North of France, Belgium, Luxembourg, as well as Switzerland. It is made from dried orange peel, gentian roots and cinchona bark, all macerated in an alcohol solution and added sugar syrup and caramel. With 18% alcohol it really adds a punch to your standard beer.
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Jacquie GaudetI love Picon beer! I didn’t realize it added so much to the alcohol content; it’s the flavour!
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7 months ago
In France we often see people, usually men, with a dog, a large backpack and a bit of a ragged look. I thought it was strange seeing a caricature of a similar lifestyle on a sign at this bar in Rennes les Bains. They might be described as wanderers or vagabonds. We were wondering - is it a thing?
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Keith KleinHi,
There are a couple of possibilities for the wanderers you describe:
1. Pilgrims on there way to or from Compostela. Often with a cockle shell somewhere on their kit.
2. Randonneurs. France is criss-crossed with randonneuring paths, the route des Grandes Randonnés, which are marked on maps with a dotted line and the notation G.R. X, with X being a number. There are legions of randonneurs every summer, and this man in your photo looks typical. His shoes and leather bag are too good for the third type:
3. Vagrants looking for work, asylum seekers, etc. Usually very scruffy and often begging for coins.
Check your map for an indication of a G.R. That might be the answer given that you are seeing a caricature of a randonneur in a local establishment.
Cheers,
Keith
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7 months ago
Rich FrasierIn my experience, scruffy guys with dogs are usually vagrants or homeless. I’ve been told that when they keep companion animals, the authorities can’t force them into housing. I live pretty close to where you are and I know Rennes Les Bains. There are quite a few of these people up there due to the hot springs in the Sals river. It’s a giant headache for the people of the town.
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7 months ago
The river Sals in Rennes les Bains.
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Houses along the banks.
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In Rennes les Bains.
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The heart of the town. I am sure that we were the only visitors at this restaurant tonite. Seating is all outside and the weather is bearable if you dress for it. C`est froid! The pizza was good.
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Scott`s.
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Pat`s.
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Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 467 km (290 miles)

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