The weather has been a bit mixed lately but for the most part if there has been rain, it has been late in the day or overnight. We have consistantly made it to our destinations dry. This morning the skies were cloudy but began to clear as we left Cucugnan at 10:30 am. We each wore three layers as it was brisk even with a short climb right out the door. But the sun was peaking through and the views of the surrounding mountains were really wonderful.
Today`s ride to Renne les Bains is not very complicated, or really hard or very long. In a nutshell it is 25kms up 350 metres and 15KM down 350 metres. It was a beautiful scenic ride entirely on a fabulous, bike friendly D18 highway. You cannot go wrong with this one.
This dog (Great Pyrenees I believe) heard us talking as we were making our way up the hill on the road above. He came over to make sure his sheep were safe! He looks great in the field of broom.
The north side view. The castle dates back to before 1000 AD. In 1659, it was abandoned and decommissioned as a strategic place. It was sold as a national asset in 1820 and its ruins remain to this day.
We passed this cycle group while they we enjoying their lunch. They were all on road bikes and none were e-bikes. We think they were part of an organized tour.
Col number two. Really not much higher than col number one. In fact it is not even at the top of today`s ride where there was no col sign! But it is a col and a col is a col and a photo is required.
The group that was having their lunch has now caught up and are heading down. A fun and fast down hill but it is a bit cool and an extra layer is needed.
The tour group gathers part way down the hill at the Bugarach sign. Fun fact about Bugarach: Has two narrow streets, 176 residents and according to a prophecy/internet rumour, an ancient Mayan calendar had predicted the end of the world would happen on the night of 21 December 2012. The only place on earth that would be saved would be the sleepy village of Bugarach. Must have been interesting times.
Rennes les Bains was not selected as our overnight spot for any particular reason except that it had places to stay and it was roughly the distance that we wanted to ride. It is a small rural town but also a spa resort known since ancient times. This small village is located in the tourist region of the upper Aude valley and its centre is crossed by the river Sals. In the past, spas must have been very popular as an overnight destination. The covid years did shut the facilities down completely and we see that many tourist businesses did not survive. On this Saturday of a holiday weekend in France, the town is very quiet. The hotels appear to be a shadow of their best years and only one restaurant was open. Even still we enjoyed our stay in Rennes les Bains.
Yesterday I ordered a beer and Picon was added. Today I discovered what it is: a caramel-coloured bitter that traditionally accompanies beer in the East and North of France, Belgium, Luxembourg, as well as Switzerland. It is made from dried orange peel, gentian roots and cinchona bark, all macerated in an alcohol solution and added sugar syrup and caramel. With 18% alcohol it really adds a punch to your standard beer.
In France we often see people, usually men, with a dog, a large backpack and a bit of a ragged look. I thought it was strange seeing a caricature of a similar lifestyle on a sign at this bar in Rennes les Bains. They might be described as wanderers or vagabonds. We were wondering - is it a thing?
Keith KleinHi,
There are a couple of possibilities for the wanderers you describe:
1. Pilgrims on there way to or from Compostela. Often with a cockle shell somewhere on their kit.
2. Randonneurs. France is criss-crossed with randonneuring paths, the route des Grandes Randonnés, which are marked on maps with a dotted line and the notation G.R. X, with X being a number. There are legions of randonneurs every summer, and this man in your photo looks typical. His shoes and leather bag are too good for the third type:
3. Vagrants looking for work, asylum seekers, etc. Usually very scruffy and often begging for coins.
Check your map for an indication of a G.R. That might be the answer given that you are seeing a caricature of a randonneur in a local establishment.
Cheers,
Keith Reply to this comment 6 months ago
Rich FrasierIn my experience, scruffy guys with dogs are usually vagrants or homeless. I’ve been told that when they keep companion animals, the authorities can’t force them into housing. I live pretty close to where you are and I know Rennes Les Bains. There are quite a few of these people up there due to the hot springs in the Sals river. It’s a giant headache for the people of the town. Reply to this comment 6 months ago
The heart of the town. I am sure that we were the only visitors at this restaurant tonite. Seating is all outside and the weather is bearable if you dress for it. C`est froid! The pizza was good.
