To Olargues - You stole my wheels and that's what really hurts - CycleBlaze

May 12, 2024

To Olargues

Coasting downhill in slow motion


Today`s ride to Olargues must be considered a rest day. We knew that it would be a much easier ride than the last few days, and we could use it!  But how did we cycle only 30 kilometres in about five hours? Simple, we were coasting  downhill on a smooth 1-3 percent grade rail line for most of it. At times, we were only pushing the pedals when we felt it was absolutely necessary. It was a very relaxing pace as everyone else on the path just whizzed past us!  Our host in Olargues was not going to be available until after 4pm so we were in no hurry. But first, lets finish up on a few details from yesterday.

We were staying in Labastide-Rouairoux at the Chambre d`Hotes - Residence le Petit Paradis.  Labastide-Rouairoux was originally developed as a small town for the manufacture of textiles. That industry has now  long faded away and the town is  pretty quiet except for a very busy highway running right through it. Fortunately,  the Voie Verte cyclepath, an oasis for cyclists, also runs right through it. 

Our room for the evening was in a large house that was initially part of a textile factory but the original factory owner converted the building for his own family`s use. It is now operated by Guy and his wife as a Chambre d`Hote. As part of their offerings to their guests, dinner can be provided in their grand home. We graciously accepted the offer to have the dinner and had a wonderful meal with Guy. He was a great host and being from Belgium and  fluent in English we very much enjoyed his telling of the history of his home and the local town.  As well, he was an avid skier!

The garden at Le Petit Paradis. Perfect for an afternoon refreshment.
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The dining room set with the salad to start our dinner.
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Getting ready to leave today but not in any real hurry. The sun is just starting to come out after an early morning shower.
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Incomparable Guy. Master chef, gardener, handyman, Harley rider and local historian amongst many other things.
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A private back door leads us back to the Voie Verte to start our day.
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and with a bit of help we are back on track - literally.
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We said ¨au revoir¨ to Guy around 11 am and began our slow motion ride to Olargues. We continued along the Voie Verte,  most of it under sunny skies.  The riding was easy along the defunct rail line and it was an great way to enjoy the lovely scenery. 

Not a totally clear picture of this operation but this is an amazing piece of machinery. The operator uses a saw attached to the back of the tractor and cuts the log to length. It then drops into a spitting device where it is quartered and finally sent up the conveyor belt into the waiting truck.
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Part way through the tunnel, cyclists are provided a free bike and rider shower.
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Horses also enjoy the Voie Verte.
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You can only see the top part of this massive tree as we are on a bridge.
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It is a very scenic ride.
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Such idyllic little settlements.
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All the small towns along the way have signs with the town name.
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The surface is as smooth asphalt with just a dusting of fine particles on top.
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The two restaurants on the highway in Saint-Pons-de-Thomières were doing excellent lunch business on Sunday. We stopped and had a coffee here.
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Not a clear picture, but it does show old roofs on a factory that has long stopped production near Saint-Pons-de-Thomières. We are not sure why these derelict buildings are left standing but we wondered if the company went bankrupt, who would fund the expensive project?
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A map of our route today. The cyclepath is very well developed with many places to stop along the way. We have seen an incredible number of riders with touring gear using it.
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Interesting rock out cropping.
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This bridge is part of an old road that is no longer safe to use. It has been turned into an artwork of BMX wheels and large pink paint brushes.
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Just a really peaceful ride. In this direction you do not have to work too hard to enjoy it.
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Pausing again to look at the views. No wonder we were so slow today!
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Food truck along the way - we were told that it was good but we had already stopped for our picnic lunch on the trail.
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Voie Verte is very popular with families. The mother of this group is back at the corner - having shown more prudence on the sharp 15% decline and walked her bike down. No waiting - even on Mother`s Day.
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Piece of the highway down below.
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No longer on the rail line but still on the Voie Verte we went up this short but steep15% grade! The rail line section near here may have been completely abandoned due to tunnel and bridge issues. Instead we were routed over a small hill.
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The rail bridge that we did not cross as it appears to be no longer passable. Perhaps a tunnel connecting to it was beyond repair.
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Looking down to the river below. Way in the distance a girl is in the river. We thought that the water must be very cold.
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Approaching Olargues. The bridges here are so beautiful.
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Olargues! Our destination.
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Our room for the night.
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Olargues is a small, rustic, medieval village. These very old hamlets are always difficult to manage with a bike because they were built on hills,  steep hills. The narrow alleyways can often be at least 20 degree slopes. In the 1800`s God forbid if you had any body joint problems!

We found our way to La Maison d’Els and there was note on the door addressed to us. Our host said she would be late and provided directions to the local pub where we could wait. She knows us well already! After our refreshments we met Els at her studio. The rest of the day was spent exploring  the village with a dinner at the local pizza shop.

In Olargues.
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Leaving through a town gate. The pub is just down the street.
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Some of the buildings are somewhat abandoned although there are a number of large scale renovation projects on the go, too. A note on this building looked like it closed during Covid and never reopened.
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A fixer upper is at the top of these stairs.
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In Olargues.
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The Pont Vieux sometimes known as the "Devil's Bridge" is said to date back to 1202 and is on the Jaur river at Olargues in Hérault.
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Jacquie GaudetI’m curious why so many ancient bridges are called “Devil’s Bridge”
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetI had the same thought. It reminds me of the one in Ceret.
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6 months ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonI planned one of our routes in Tuscany to go over a “Devil’s Bridge”.
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6 months ago
Barry DevlinAwesome bridge!
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6 months ago
Another look.
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Wine in a paper cup is cheaper than coke. Only two places to eat were open on this Sunday night and we had heard that this pizza place back on the Voie Verte was good. We ate the wood fired, thin crust pizza outside at a picnic table. It was good!
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Barry DevlinWine cheaper than coke - what a great country!
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6 months ago
This cloud and rain chased us home at the end of the day.
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Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 251 km (156 miles)

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