November 9, 2017
A visit to Cape Saint Vincent: The end of the world
I was up early, cooked up some eggs for breakfast, and headed out on my bike toward Cape Saint Vincent. It had been quite cold overnight, and I layered up for the ride. But as soon as I got into the sun, I peeled off the layers and was in my t-shirt and bike shorts. It wasn't too windy at first, but as I got further out of town the wind picked up considerably. I was glad to have left my luggage behind at the hostel. When I got to the cape, the lighthouse complex wasn't open yet. A group of British birders arrived about the same time I did, and immediately got very excited to see some rare bird on the cliffs. With no binoculars or spotting scope, it just looked like a little brown bird to me.
I wandered around and took some pictures. I had parked my bike next to a Eurovelo 1 route marker, and another sign that said it was kilometer zero. I don't understand that, as the route goes both north toward Lisbon and east toward Lagos. And I would have liked to have someone to tell what I think of Eurovelo 1!
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When the fortress opened, I went inside and had a cup of coffee. I also went into the gift shop and bought a very cheesy and overpriced hoody that says "I was at the end of the world". If I had any sense I would have gotten the t-shirt, which would have fit into my panniers more easily.
I rode back, stopping at Forte de Belixe, which wasn't open. I went back to town and visited the Fortaleza de Sagres. This fortaleza is much more historical then the one at the cape. It was originally erected in the 15th century and Henry the Navigator worked from there, but a lot of it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755.
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I had dinner at a restaurant near the hostel, a traditional Portugese restaurant. I picked out my fish, but can't tell you what kind it was. It was freshly grilled, and together with some vegetables and a salad, and a large glass of red wine, it was a fantastic dinner. The restaurant is called Escondidinho.
Update: The fish was rabalo, which Google translate says is a sea bass. The fish with vegetables and a salad was 15 euros. The glass of wine was 1 euro, and coffee with milk was 0.80. I also had some agua con gas for 1 euro. It was delicious. The wine made me tipsy. And I was so full that I skipped my birthday desert. How did I get to be 60 years old?
Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 750 km (466 miles)
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