Saint - Émilion to Bergerac - Wake up, Maggie, I think it's time to get back on tour

May 14, 2019

Saint - Émilion to Bergerac

Vineyards galore and amazing river views

We had breakfast in our bare but freshly renovated apartment. It is really a nice place but severely lacks decore. The usual mix of bread, cereal, yogurt and bananas will fuel us for the first few kilometres. As our room was on the third floor we left our bikes in the foyer beside the front door and pushed them out to the street just after the church bells chimed ten o'clock.

Saint - Émilion is a quiet town in the morning hours with only delivery people and shop proprietors on the street setting up for the day. As we left the town you could see long stretches of parking spaces available for day visitors just beyond the town entrance. They should be arriving shortly. A popular place to visit and especially great for anyone who has an interest in wine.

We made our way down a steeply sloping road getting bounced about on the cobble stones as we rode out of town and quickly turned east. We rode on a mix of farm roads and some with the light vehicle traffic.

Many vineyards and views along this route.

This small pâtisserie was a real find along the side of the road on the out skirts of Castillon-la-Bataille.

This proprietor was so nice. When she saw me take a picture she as asked if I wanted to see the oven.

Looking inside, the oven is a massive area. We think she said it was 600 years old.

Our plan was to follow the Dordogne but as this river meanders along we often rode along beside it for a bit and then did not see it again for several kilometres. We crossed over a bridge to the south side at the town of Pressac and continued riding on backroads. Some of the best riding was along an old abandoned road right beside the river.

At Castillon-la-Bataille we began riding beside the Dordogne.

Lunch stop. We sat on a bench in front of a church and watched over the quiet little town.

Closed to car traffic, this delightful old road was right beside the river for a short period of time.

At times we wondered if it would go to a dirt track but it only narrowed a bit here and there. The old signage for cars is in still in place.

Great views of the river all the way along. It really was ideal riding.

There were two horses here in a big field of tall grass.

Rocket man! Heading in the other direction, he must have heard my excitement for his ride. He slammed on the brakes and we chatted for 15 minutes at he side of the road. A regular bike drive train allows him to maintain speeds of 50 kms an hour on good roads. He uses this for his daily commute to work which is 25 kms from his home.

The day really began to get warm, so warm that Pat burned her exposed wrists. We were both relieved when we reached an Intermarche store on the edge of Bergerac as we have almost finished our water.

This is the bridge we crossed over to reach Bergerac on the north bank of river. Not far away we sat in the late day sun and had a beer while chatting with some people from Manchester. Always interesting to get other people's views on world affairs.

Église Notre-Dame de Bergerac in the center of town is a historical monument built in the mid 1800's.

Tonight's stay was at Le Colombier de Cyrus et Roxane which we found quite easily just off the river front. It is in an area of very old buildings, this one is 450 years old. Our room was on the top floor with exposed supporting beams that you must be very careful to step over or duck under as you move around the room.

For dinner we have been enjoying formula menu meals. You can get one with the choice of a main plus a dessert or a main and appetizer. We each order the main we want and share an appetizer and a dessert. We know that we are in France but tiramisu has become a favourite! Pistachio tiramisu - who knew?!?!

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 163 km (101 miles)

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