Day trip to Hellfire Pass

January 24, 2017

And a change of accomodation

Piece of cake. No, that's not what I ate today, that was the ride to Hellfire Pass. Easy-peasy. Choose your favorite description. I was worried for nothing.

I was up early, and checked myself out of the resort. As nice as I initially thought it was, I was put off by loud music in the evening, and an unpleasant smell in the blanket. I had unfortunately left my sleeping bag liner in Bangkok as part of my effort to lighten my load for these few days, and ended up trying to use a towel as a blanket. I had asked the owner about the music. Maybe he thought I was rude to say I thought it was too loud, but I thought his response was rude too. There was no sign of life as I left at 7 am, so I dropped my room key at the desk, my panniers behind the desk, and a note saying I would come back for them.

As I started up the hill out of town, my Garmin read a very comfortable 63 degrees F. The ride was rolling, and the hills not too steep. I made note of lots of restaurants and coffee shops that I could take advantage of during the return ride. Mostly it was through undeveloped countryside.

Typical scene from the ride to Hellfire Pass.

I did encounter some road construction,

Fortunately, road paving was complete and just striping remained to be done, and there was nothing actively going on as I passed.

I passed a few wats. They were more wooded than others I've seen in Thailand.

I had a moment of confusion as I neared the pass. Both my Garmin and maps.me showed a turn to the museum where there isn't one. I thought I missed the turn and backtracked, found where it was indicated was in the middle of a farmer's field, thought that it would be odd not to have a sign in English, and then found the turn about a quarter mile further on.

Hellfire Pass Museum and Memorial, supported by the Australian and Thai governments.

I arrived at about 8:30, and the museum didn't open until 9. There was someone in front who told me that I could walk the trails before the museum opened. That turned out to be a good thing, as it was quiet. I saw a few other people, including some workers who seemed to be on a cigarette break, but was alone most of the time.

Rock walls cut by POWs and Asian workers under horrific conditions.

I think this is the quietest spot I've been in, in all of Thailand.

After walking around and reaching the memorial plaque, I turned around and went back to the museum. By now it was open and there were quite a few people there.

Peace Vessel sculpture in the Hellfire Pass Museum.

The museum does a good job of explaining the history of Japanese aggression in World War 2, and why they needed the Thai-Burma railway, and how miserably they used and treated the prisoners of war. Sometime in the past few days someone commented to me that it's hard to reconcile the Japan of today and the Japanese people we've known with the awful history of abuse and mistreatment of others by Japan during the war. I find that absolutely to be true. But that can be said of other nationalities at times of war, as well. It's shameful how badly we can treat other people.

While I was touring the museum, busloads of Thai school kids arrived. They were loud and boisterous, and changed the solemn atmosphere at the museum. There were groups on the trails, groups in the museum, groups waiting on the pavement outside, and basically everywhere!

The school kids at the memorial were everywhere, and all wearing yellow shirts.

I decided it was a good time to leave, and went back to my bike and left. I passed a restaurant on the way out, where it looked like a couple of Thai tour guides were eating. I was looking for food, but passed that one up. The next few restaurants, outside the memorial, appeared open but no one was there. I stopped at one, hoping someone would come out and offer me a menu, but that didn't happen. I think most of these restaurants are used by tour groups, and it was early for anyone to be stopping for lunch. I finally saw one with people watching TV, and stopped there. I had some crispy pork with basil, with steamed rice. It was just okay, and cost about 5 times what it typically does outside of the tourist areas.

I continued on back to town. The temperature had risen into the high 90's F, and my Garmin was reading over 100 on the road. I stopped and had a cold drink as I got into town, went back to last night's lodging to get my panniers, and then crossed over to the other side of the road. The road is a divided highway. I had chosen last night's resort based on the direction I was riding and not having to cross over. I went to the resort on the other side of the road, checked it out, and took a room.

This is the Sai Yok Noi Blue River Resort. Initially I was shown a bungalow that looked good, had AC and all the amenities (including toilet paper!) for 800 baht. I did a Wi-Fi survey, and found it weak there. The girl showing me the room didn't seem to understand my issue. I walked around the resort and found the area with a strong signal, and asked for a room there. The single room there is a little bit different, and the price is 900 baht. She was unwilling to negotiate, and I took the room.

My room at the Blue River Resort. Laundry hanging from my bike on the porch.

Inside the room. A little dark, but with white sheets! There is a small window next to the door, where the picture was taken.

Typical Thai on-demand electric water heater for the shower. There is no separation between the wet and dry parts of the bathroom, and no hot water at the sink.

I walked down the street, had an iced coffee from one of the vendors, and picked up some more drinks and also some yogurt and baked things at the 7-11 for breakfast in the morning. I have some instant coffee, and can use the kettle in the room for hot water.

I had a strong headwind for my return trip. It looks like that will continue tomorrow, perhaps even stronger. I hope the forecast is wrong!

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Today's ride: 41 km (25 miles)
Total: 2,865 km (1,779 miles)

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