My main impression from today was the terrible air quality. Visibility was for shit, the smell of wood smoke all too often tinged with plastic and a general toxicity. I’m destroying my old memories. I’m hoping that this is simply because it’s that time of year and not a general deterioration due to population growth and climate change. I haven’t had conversation with anyone old enough to remember the 70’s, but Edwin at the no name hotel I’m staying at remembers the 80’s and said it’s changed since them. But I don’t know if I trust Edwin, he paused far too long before quoting me 150 quetzals for my room. That’s the same $20 price I was paying in Huehuetenango for much better facilities (hot water and Wi-Fi, for starters).
Visibility was so poor that I decided against turning off the highway for the 12% hill leading to the eco park where I hoped to camp with a view of Lake Atitlan. I mostly wanted to see the lake to bump my Instagram cred and if I won’t be able to see it I don’t want to suffer the hill.
The rides both yesterday and today have not been nearly as difficult as I was fearing. I’m starting to wonder if perhaps my legs are stronger.
By chance I met Chris and Rhiannna, two UK cyclists I’ve bumped into 3 times previously on this trip. We started and ended in different locations but our routes briefly overlapped and we all happened to converge on the same town in time to have lunch together before going our separate ways. That was fun.
Dormant Volcán Santa María seen on the climb out of San Cristobal. You can’t see it from this angle but behind it is the active volcano Volcán Santiaguito
Chris and Rihana from the UK and on an open ended journey. We first met at the ferry terminal in La Paz, then outside Tepic and again last month in Oaxaca. It’s possible we’ll meet again
Edwin and I had beers and chatted after he overcharged me for my room. He confirmed my suspicion that all the housing construction I’m seeing is funded by money from working the US. He too mulls the question, should I stay or should I go?
