02/18/24 La Festividad del Señor del Sacromonte - south - CycleBlaze

February 18, 2024

02/18/24 La Festividad del Señor del Sacromonte

Not being religious and not being Catholic in particular, I’ve been oblivious to the fact that this is the beginning of Lent. So it was a bit of a surprise to me when I wandered down to the market this morning, hoping to find juice and instead finding a full blown festival taking place. I spent most of the day immersed in the crowd and soaking up the energy. It was basically a huge market, rides, crowded churches and a lot of Aztec dancing. The latter was confusing to me but it’s apparently a fusion of sorts between preconquest and catholic rituals, the church on the top of the hill being built on top of an old temple.  I wasn’t the only one confused, most people I spoke to were out of towners a well. 

Iztaccíhuatl seen from the town plaza
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Cars streaming into town all day long
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The market covered several streets and went on forever
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All sorts of food being prepared and sold
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The smell of grilled meat was everywhere
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So many sweets and nuts
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This is early, before it got crowded
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Food choices were infinite
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Nuts
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Cheese
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Fish
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More fish
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And more fish
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Stacks and stacks of cecina, thin sheets of meat
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More sweets
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Gorditas
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I joined the crowd walking up to the church at the top of the hill
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It was a steep climb on cobblestone
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With good views at the top. Here’s Iztaccíhuatl again
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and Popocatépetl
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Cell phone panorama in an attempt to get both volcanoes in the same shot
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I was there. I was able to see a line of cars heading up to the pass (next to my head), making me glad I’d decided to wait another day. They were going to play in the fresh snow
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Blessing of offerings outside the Santuario del Señor del Sacromonte Amecameca, the church at the top
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There was this long ritual involving incense and bowing to each other
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Religious banners
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All accompanied by drums and singing and this fellow blowing a conch
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The crowd making the trek to the top had grown considerably by the time I made my way down
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Bici taxis are common here
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They even have their own union
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I paid 40 pesos for a ride back to my hotel. It was a kidney crushing experience going over the many speed bumps. When I went back for dinner later I opted to walk home
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I’d have been in my lowest gear, but not my driver
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A car back from a day trip up Pasó del Cortes
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Building a snowman on your hood is a thing here
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