Wrapping Up in Paris - For Now - Follow My Heart - CycleBlaze

March 16, 2024 to March 20, 2024

Wrapping Up in Paris - For Now

Not with a bang, but a whimper

Yet another cold and rainy weekend in Paris – a good time for resting, catching up, and getting ready for the next chapter – the one where I am actually cycling! I ventured outside only a few times to pick up provisions at the small specialty shops in my neighborhood. And I met Sonia for a drink on Sunday afternoon, sipping on a spritzer and testing out my French proficiency.

You know its a chill day in Paris when outdoor cafe seating comes with blankets
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A pretty but rather flat spritzer was easily outdone by the scintillating conversation with Sonia
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Monday, March 18

The weather had warmed a bit by Monday, with predictions for sunshine the following days.  I was very much looking forward to getting out and about in Paris – revisiting old haunts and discovering new corners of the city. The first item was a Rothko exhibit at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, one of my favorite museums in Paris.

Mark Rothko was born in Russia in 1903 and emigrated with his family to Portland, OR at the age of ten. Though he started figurative painting in the 1930s, he is best known for his later abstract paintings from the 1950s - two or three large rectangular colored shapes that are recognizably Rothkos.

 The retrospective includes 115 works that are presented in chronological order, from his earliest figurative works to the Black and Gray series commissioned by UNESCO but never installed. Curated narratives throughout the exhibit as well as Rothko’s own words provided insight as to his evolving vision and goals -  “I’m not interested in color, it’s light I’m after

For me, it was an eye-opening exhibition. I’d never thought much about Rothko the artist and though I’d come across one or two of his works in exhibitions with other 20th century artists, I had usually passed them by rather quickly. But here I was compelled to pause before each work, drawn in by the different colors, tones and brushwork. And as is usually the case with successful art expositions, I left there uplifted and a bit in awe at the power of art to move me.

Rothko exhibition at Fondation Louis Vuitton, a museum of modern art
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I almost never tire of photographing the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton
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Street Scene (1937-38) one of Rothko's early figurative paintings
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One of the "Subway Paintings," a series of works of the the New York Subway. These paintings emphasized architectural features rather than the human figures, who often seemed to disappear into the architecture
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"Slow Swirl at the Edge of the Sea" (1944) The 1940s are considered a transitional period for Rothko, when he explored mythological forms and surrealism. This painting depicts the time his parent first met
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Scott AndersonThis and the earlier images surprised me. They’re not at all my idea of Rothko’s art.
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8 months ago
During the multiform period, Rothko's increasingly abstract drawings explored color and geometric forms. He also stopped naming his paintings, referring to them by number
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Rothko's work can envelope you and exert an uncanny hold that compels you to pause and reflect
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The Black and Gray series was commissioned by UNESCO to be placed at their Paris headquarters, near a large sculpture by Giacometti.
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 It was mid-afternoon by the time I exited the museum, with the sun peeking through a generally cloudy sky. Rather than taking the Metro, I decided it would be a fine afternoon to walk the 3.5 miles home. Google plotted a route through Bois de Boulogne, a nearly 2100 acre park on the eastern side of Paris. I’d not previously been in the park and so set off in great anticipation of a new adventure. Along the way I encountered an extensive network of trails as well as a variety of mammalian and avian life forms – it would be a wonderful place to bring Vivien George sometime later this year. However, Google had routed me through a series of paths and dirt roads that snaked through the woods in directions that befuddled me – no real surprise there! It seemed as though I’d been going in circles for ages when I finally emerged from the woods near the Pavillon Royal and the interior lake. In fact, I'd gone less than a mile. I was tired and used the excuse of darkening clouds to abandon my walk and find my way to the Metro. I soon arrived home, tired and content.

Setting off through the Bois de Boulogne
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Janice BranhamYou should definitely bring Vivien George for a visit here. We rode through the Bois de Bologne on the way to the palace at Versailles. The ride was the best part of that day.
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8 months ago
In the Bois de Boulogne
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Out for a swim in the Bois de Boulogne
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Curious dogs, cautious walkers, and indifferent owners - a potentially volatile situation but calm prevailed
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Gym equipment in the park for the buff and the beer-bellied
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A time for contemplation in the Chalet des Acaias
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Bidding au revoir to Bois de Boulogne under somewhat darkening skies
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Tuesday, March 19

 My goals for the last two days in Paris were fairly simple: 1)  finish up last minute errands before my Thursday departure and 2) take long strolls through central Paris. I had a rendezvous with my friend Alex for a 12:30 lunch, so the morning was spent doing a final load of wash and working on the journal. The wash cycle ended and I got up from the couch intending to hang the newly cleaned clothes on the rack. Unbeknownst to me, my left foot had fallen asleep and then crumbled when I stood on it. I struggled to regain my balance, but there was nothing to grab onto to and, as I was wearing socks, I slipped and tumbled to the floor. My left foot rolled as I fell, accompanied by a distinct cracking sound. A zillion thoughts raced through my head - most concerned the potential damage to my foot and what that meant for my upcoming tour through Spain and Portugal.

 My foot was able to bear weight (a good sign), so I immediately retrieved an ice pack from the kitchen and retreated to the couch. After an hour, there was some swelling and discoloration, but I could still walk with a modicum of pain. Feeling pretty encouraged, I headed out for lunch with Alex, followed by a trip to the bank. Unfortunately, the pain and bruising had greatly increased by the time lunch was over, so I limped home for more rest and icing. It was clear central Paris would have to wait, and I was just hoping that my Iberian tour was not in jeopardy.

 Over lunch, I had asked Alex about where I might get an X-ray and he mentioned Doctolib, the French online medical portal. Once home, I logged onto Doctolib and made an appointment for an X-ray the following morning. Thanks to a large dose of Ibuprofen, I was able to get a good night’s sleep.

 Wednesday, Mar 20

 The first day of Spring!! Certainly I will get some good news today.

 The bruising in my foot had spread overnight, but the swelling and pain had subsided a bit. I was feeling optimistic that nothing was broken and that my tour would proceed as planned. The X-ray clinic was not far from home, and I headed over about 9 am for my 9:25 appointment. The line moved slowly as one of the receptionists was out sick, but I’d reached the counter shortly after 9:30. I’d been pretty pleased with myself for navigating Doctolib to set up the appointment, but I missed the critical information that I needed a doctor’s referral before I could get the X-ray. Lacking the referral, I was given an option of three medical centers where I could get both the referral and X-ray.

 I found my way to the MGEN health center and entered a large courtyard surrounded by numbered buildings housing a variety of medical specialties. I wasn’t quite sure where to go, but was directed by a kind onlooker to the building at the far end. There I found a large waiting room filled with patients, each holding a numbered ticket as if they were waiting in a line at the deli. It was clear that I would have a long wait before even knowing if I was in the right place.

 By this time, I’d walked more than a mile on a “broken foot” that seemed to be functioning fairly normally. There was soreness, but no limp. I decided to forgo the X-ray and headed home for some more icing and rest. I plan to be ready at 7:45 tomorrow morning for my ride to Orly and the beginning of what promises to be a great month of cycling.

Nothing like some French patisserie to cheer you up after a fall
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The interior courtyard of MGEN health center - lots of info on the directory but I had no idea of where I was supposed to go
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Not pretty, but functional
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Scott AndersonLooks more hopeful than I’d feared. Good luck, but don’t push it!
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonYes, I am quite pleased that it seems to be not too serious. It was the cracking sound that caused the greatest alarm, but the bark seems to have been much worse than the bite. And I'll do my best to heed your advice - thanks!
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8 months ago
Angela NaefOuch! Sorry you are sore, hope it heals quickly and doesn’t delay your trip.
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8 months ago
Heading to Seville tomorrow for a month-long tour in Spain and Portugal, complete with a couple of planned CycleBlaze meet-ups.
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Jacquie GaudetFingers crossed that your foot recovers quickly!
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8 months ago
Janice BranhamOuch. I hope your crunched foot heals quickly. Looking forward to following your Iberian tour.
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8 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesOh my, poor you. Ice, ibuprofen and maybe light support wrapping might help. Didn't you do this last year?
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8 months ago
Jonathan HechtOuch! But it sounds like it may be okay. In the meantime, take Scott's advice...don't push it.

Enjoy Iberia.
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Jacquie GaudetThanks Jacquie
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Janice BranhamThanks Janice
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThanks - I'm taking inspiration from Dodie! And yes, the injury is reminiscent of one I suffered two years ago, not last year. It was a pretty bad high ankle sprain that I incurred as I was getting into a taxi at CDG. I ended up canceling my entire trip to Spain and Portugal that spring and instead went to Puglia after my ankle had recovered a bit.
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Jonathan HechtThanks Jonathan - I'll try to take it easy!
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8 months ago
Lucy MartinAck! Not again! Fingers crossed.
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8 months ago
Rich FrasierHoping for the best! Take it day by day and maybe that foot will be OK.
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8 months ago
Mike AylingGood that it was not more serious.
As we age our balance deteriorates and Mary and I attend a weekly older adults strength and balance class. We perform core strengthening exercises and a lot of balance work.
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8 months ago
Betsy EvansOh no!! Fingers-crossed for a speedy recovery.
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Lucy MartinGlad to hear from you Lucy. Looking forward to a raincheck tour next year
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Mike AylingThanks Mike - after retirement my work life balance has now focused on just balance :). I do réformer Pilates pretty regularly when at home and am determined to keep up with my morning exercise and stretching routine while in tour this year.
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Betsy EvansThanks Betsy
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8 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Rich FrasierThanks Rich
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8 months ago