May 19, 2024 to May 22, 2024
Wrapping up in Bordeaux and Paris
I’ve gotten considerably behind in posting the end of our short tour and Leah and Susie’s time France. In fact, I’ve already started on another tour with fellow CBers Suzanne, Janos and Kathleen Jones!! To save little bit of sanity, I’m wrapping up the last few days in Bordeaux and Paris into one post, trying to economize on both pictures and words.
Sunday, May 19
Today we returned to Bordeaux, taking the TER train from Brive with a connection in Perigeaux. On arriving at the Brive station, we met a couple from the UK who had just completed a cycle tour somewhat similar to ours, but arranged by a travel agency/bike rental outfit in Bordeaux. As the five of us waited together with bikes on the platform, the two-car train pulled into the station. Bike logos on each car indicated room for two bikes. The conductor, who had an eerie resemblance to Captain Kangaroo, barked that only four bikes were allowed on the train. Assuring him we had booked reservations with bikes, Leah and I loaded into one car while Susie joined the UK couple in the other car.
Once underway, the conductor came by to check our tickets and asserted we had no bike reservations, though I specifically booked a train with bike space. He asked for my “passport”, which I eventually gleaned was a special bike reservation ticket. We were traveling on a French holiday and, after much discussion, it seemed that a TER bike ticket was required. And it cost 1€. I was still unclear as to where/how I could purchase such a ticket, but the conversation ended and we all made it to Perigeaux. While waiting for the second leg of the journey, I learned that the English couple also lacked a special bike ticket - evidently the new policies regarding bikes on French TERs are not widely known, even by travel agencies and bike rental outfits. Nor are they widely enforced - the conductors on our train from Perigeaux to Bordeaux had no issues or even questions regarding bike tickets.
The bike rental outfit, O2 cycles, was waiting when we arrived at Gare Saint-Jean. Leah and Susie said good-bye to their trusty steeds, remembering at the last minute to remove their pedals. We were too early for check-in so we dropped off my bike and our gear and headed for lunch, finding a small sandwich shop just in front of a Sunday flea market. Leah and Susie spent the afternoon browsing more of Bordeaux while I headed back to the hotel to complete check in and try to do a little journaling. The dinner with Nathalie and her husband Jeff was very special, with great food and stimulating conversation – so engaging that I forgot to take any pictures! It was almost ten when we finally tore ourselves away and walked back to the hotel through the lively streets of Bordeaux, marveling once again how vibrant outdoor life is in French cities.
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Monday, May 20
Our return to Paris on the high speed TGV was a breeze. To my surprise and relief, the storage place for bikes had a big blue cardboard sign indicating a space reserved for vélos, not luggage. I strapped Vivien George in, took my seat, and had a relaxing two hours to Paris. I did have a little fall while walking back to the apartment – I tripped on a curb in a construction site, landing on my back with a loaded Vivien George atop. I felt like a bug trapped on his back. Leah and Susie were quick to help me up - no serious damage and my only regret is that there are no photos. We lunched at a neighborhood café and I spent the afternoon catching up on videos of missed French classes while Susie and Leah roamed the streets of Paris. Dinner was Chinese takeout at my apartment.
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Tuesday, May 21
Today was all about being a tourist in Paris. The day started with a visit to Musée d’Orsay, which was in the midst of celebrating 150 years of Impressionism. We skipped the special exhibit, but could not avoid the crowds – more than I’ve witnessed in over a dozen trips to the museum in the last seven years. Despite the crowds, the Orsay was a big hit, especially with Susie. After the museum, we strolled on the quai along the Seine to Notre Dame and lunched at a small bistro on Ile-Saint-Louis. Our visit to Notre Dame continued with a walk along the north and west side where placards document the restoration project and serve as a living museum of the work, material and people who are bringing the great Cathedral back to life.
Leah and Susie treated me to dinner at one of my favorite neighborhood restaurants, one with a more modern take on French cuisine. The meal delivered on all fronts – fantastic food with great friends celebrating a most memorable and delightful cycling adventure in France.
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Wednesday, May 22
Leah and Susie left today, closing out what I considered a highly successful tour and two enjoyable weeks in France. No matter the weather or route conditions, both were always upbeat and ready for more - something I was very thankful for. They wisely opted to take a taxi to CDG rather than brave the ordeal and uncertainty of the Metro and RER B. The cab was a few minutes late, stuck in traffic, but they had a good cushion and made it to the airport and through all the queues well in advance of their departure. They even arrived back in Raleigh 45 minutes ahead of schedule.
The rest of my day was filled with laundry and trying to catch up on the journal. I managed to squeeze in dinner with Carla and Alex to celebrate upcoming birthdays before they left for three weeks in Argentina. We put a bow on the day with a walk through the gardens of the Palais Royal, past the Louvre Pyramid, and across the Seine - enjoying some of the best of Paris on a late spring evening.
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Interesting news about needing a bike pass on a TER. I’ll have to remember that for this fall.
3 months ago
3 months ago
I'm just in the process of booking tickets from Toulouse to Paris in October. Currently I will be able to book the only 2 spaces available on the TGV INOUI (for fully assembled bikes) and there is also an option for the intercity which takes 7hrs. I remembered that you had taken the TGV from Toulouse last year and looked up your account of it. We're not going to be faced with the same chaos you encountered on a public holiday but I'm still a little nervous about how easy it will be to get up to the platform, find the bike car and hope there are no suitcases in the way. How much time is there to get onto the train from when the platform is announced? Can you remember whether the bike section was at the front or back of the train? I'm wondering if it would be less stressful to take the 7hr intercity option with slightly more capacity for bikes? Would love if you are able to offer up some advice!
3 months ago
3 months ago
They are suppose to announce the track ~20 min before departure, so that would leave you adequate time to find the bike car. If you book early, your seat should be in the same car as the bike and the car/seat indicated on your ticket. You can always ask one of the conductors which is the bike car(s).
Another advantage of the train originating in Toulouse is that when you the bike car before the luggage space is filled with luggage.
3 months ago