It was a long day in the saddle – it was neither the miles nor the terrain, it was the heat.
The day got off to an excellent start with breakfast on the shaded terrace of my albergo where I enjoyed a repeat of last night’s dinner – grilled ham and cheese. I did a quick twirl around town and took off about nine under clear blue skies and warming temperatures. In short order I was back on the FVG3 cycle path and crossing the Torrente Cellina on the Ponte di Ravedis. The route continued on small farm lanes, passing fields of corn with the Carnian prealps rising in the distance. It was easily cycling, generally downhill with occasional stretches through the trees to prevent me from overheating. I took a short break at a small chapel in the woods and then continued to Aviano where I’d identified a bike store I needed to meet.
Water bottles and/or their caps head the list of the items I most often lose on tour – now that I’ve developed a better system to keep track of my wallet. I bought two replacement bottles in Metz last month and I’d already lost one of the caps somewhere in the Friuli. Hence the trip to a bike store. It was market day in Aviano and I wove through the stalls to Land Bike where I found a serviceable replacement bottle. They also had some really nice bike jerseys; sadly, all were professional fit and too tight for my taste. Before leaving town, I spent a little time roaming through the market stalls before landing at a small café for a cold fanta and donut. And free water! When offered, I didn’t hesitate to christen my new water bottle.
Shortly after leaving Aviano, I crossed the Torrente Artugna, not minding wading through the shallows waters that lapped across a low water bridge. Temperatures were in the mid-90s and I relished any cooling breeze, shade or even wet feet. I stopped often, sometimes at a bar/café to replenish my water supply, at other times just to rest in a shady spot along the road. I recalled my long, hot days on RAGBRAI and started dreaming of root beer floats and chocolate milk – I actually have Jeff Lee to thank for reminding me how restorative chocolate milk can be.
I had left the FVG3-Pedemonta cycle route in San Giovanni and traveled along local cycle routes and small roads until I reconnected with the Munich-Venice long-distance cycle route near Vittorio Veneto. It was a gently contoured terrain with little traffic and even less shade - by the time I rolled along the small canal leading into Vittorio Veneto I was ready to jump in the water. Instead, the track led me directly to a Lidl parking lot where I parked Vivien George and went in search of chocolate milk. There was no chocolate milk, only a chocolate “drink,” a label I studiously avoid when searching for dairy products. This time I gave in, not thinking straight in the extremely air conditioned interior of the Lidl. The non-dairy drink was somewhat refreshing but left the bad aftertaste of synthetic ingredients.
The terrain became more contoured as I headed north toward Vittorio Veneto
It was almost 3:30 when I finally checked into my hotel – hot, tired, and hungry. I still had the leftover half of my breakfast grilled ham and cheese, but it had no appeal. A web search identified a Pakistani restaurant that would open soon so I cleaned up and headed over with thoughts of biryani filling my head. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed. I resisted returning to the hotel for a two hour wait until restaurants opened and so settled for lots of hydration and a grilled veggie sandwich at an open café. And I topped it all off with gelato – it wasn’t chocolate milk, it was even better.
Replenishing lost fluids with chips and a Mosqhito - a non-alcoholic drink with ginger ale, kiwi, mint, cucumber, lime