To Villarreal de San Carlos

April 10, 2024

Parque Nacional Monfragüe

Today I was back to touring solo. Suzanne, Janos and I posed for a closing picture of our mini-tour of Spain and Portugal and then they were off to explore the city while I hit the road. I was headed north to Parque Nacional Monfragüe, or Monfragüe, an 18,000 hectare national park recognized by UNESCO as a Biosphere reserve and noted for its bird life.

The route headed almost due north on EX208, following a near straight trajectory for 25 miles to the small town of Torrejón el Rubio. It was a fantastic ride full of dips, downhills and manageable climbs. There were few cars but an abundance of livestock – cows and sheep of course but also goats and the famed Iberian pigs. And there were other cyclists. Day riders out enjoying the wonderful weather and terrific network roads outside Trujillo as well as a couple of touring cyclists. I was having so much fun that I barely missed Suzanne and Janos…but of course missed sharing this splendid day with them.

Another wonderful tour had come to an end

These quonset huts immediately reminded me of livestock shelters, but I had no idea if that was the case here

Rings of Iberian pigs sleeping in the sun

A bit different from the way pigs are raised in Iowa - check that, a BIG difference

Jorge - out for a day ride on the quiet roads around Trujillo

I was taking some photos here at Rio Torzo when another touring cyclist rode by, giving me a big hello but zipping on by

And he's off, with only a shout of greeting

I later caught up with Wolfgang while he was stopped at Rio Almonte. A German from Frankfurt, he's on his way to Bilbao from Cadiz

The landscape was mostly scrub trees and pastureland

Looking back - I swear I could see Trujillo for about 14 miles into the ride

A field of young olive trees suddenly appeared on a hilltop a few miles south of Torrejón el Rubi

About 20 miles into the ride I got my first look at the far-off expanse of Monfragüe, framed by a long, rocky ridge. Five miles later I stopped in Torrejón el Rubio and enjoyed a fanta, my breakfast sandwich, and a chat with Tomas, a Spaniard doing a 30-day tour in his home country. I was relishing the sunshine and wanted to linger, but I moved on, excited to see the Parque.

Enjoying a Fanta and sunshine in Torrejón el Rubi

Vivien George has no interest in the Discoteca, but I did see Vincent swaying in the breeze

Once entering Monfragüe, the wide and straight road I'd experienced for more than 20 miles suddenly narrowed as it snaked down to the River Tagus (Rio Tajo). I was mesmerized by the quiet and lushness around me, the air filled only with sounds of insects and birds and the occasional car engine. The surroundings called for quiet contemplation and I proceeded slowly, trying to inhale all that was around me.

Heading down, there were few small pull-offs where I could safely snap a photo. Then I reached the viewing area known as Salto del Gitano (Gypsy’s Leap). Rising across the river was the imposing rock wall known as Peña Falcon, an important nesting site for a variety of raptor species. There were scores of raptors circling and swooping about the rock, and I tried vainly to capture some detailed images. Alas, my birder gene was never activated and I could only stare up in wonder at their grace and majesty.

Monfragüe attracts birders from all over Europe, and Gypsy’s Leap is one of the most important viewing spots in the park. Indeed, there were a number of avid birders peering across the river at Peña Falcon through a telephoto lens or spotting scopes, each in search of nesting raptors and/or other rare species. In my ignorance, I asked one gentleman, a Scot named Bruce, what kind of birds were flying about overhead. Mainly griffon vultures, but also black vultures. He then asked if I wanted to see a black stork, a fairly rare species that is known to nest in the crags of Peña Falcon. I nodded my head emphatically as he handed me his binoculars. Hopeless, I was. So he set up his spotting scope and let me have a look – a nesting stork with a long, bright red beak and a black body with green highlights that shimmered in the sun. Extraordinary. My emotional connection with storks was firmly cemented. I have no picture to share of this encounter – all efforts to find the nest with my zoom camera were for naught, so I included from the internet.

Bruce and I chatted for about fifteen minutes, he spends most winters in southern Spain to escape the cold of Scotland. We talked birds and bicycling and Brexit, and I thanked him profusely for sharing the black stork.

After more than 20 miles, we have curves!

In Monfragüe, with Peña Falcon rising ahead

Peña Falcon rises across the River Tagus

Bruce, with his binoculars, spotting scope and generous heart

A black stork, captured from the internet

Vivien George and I continued through the park, astounded at our good fortune. We crossed the Tagus River and climbed to the small village of Villareal de San Carlos (pop. 28) - home to my lodging, the park Visitor Center and a couple of restaurants. There were a few hiccups getting access to the room, but I settled in to my Casa Rural and marveled at how extraordinary the day had been.

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Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 535 miles (861 km)

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Rachael AndersonI’m so glad you got to see Monfragüe. I’m excited about us going there. Beautiful photos!
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