All things considered, today’s ride to Tarvisio was the most difficult of the tour to date – hot, humid, and 46 mostly dusty miles back-loaded with climbing. But it wasn’t all bad, for sure. There were mountains, rivers, a few cows, a cornfield or two, and amiable fellow cyclists. And no rain.
A morning haze greeted me as I set out pedaling through Spittal an der Drau and outlying croplands. After six miles, the route left the pavement and traversed alongside the Drau on well-packed gravel roads. Though the route was flat and the cycling almost effortless, the day was warming, and after ten miles on dusty gravel it was a great relief to find a trailside café. The place was popular with day riders as well as us touring folks, as evidenced by a near constant stream of cyclists pulling in and departing. It was time for elevenses, but the only treat on offer was a large piece of cake – which I ate! While sipping my espresso, I noticed a day rider dousing himself with water from the nearby spigot – he was practically taking a bath. Inspired, I too took a turn at the water station, soaking my wet towel and loading up on nice cool water.
The Alpe Adria (aka CAAR - Ciclovia Alpe Adria Radweg) takes a looping path through Villach, a city that has received mixed reviews from Cycle Blazers – some love it, others seem disappointed, unimpressed or meh. My decision was to avoid the city center altogether and forge my own, more direct and shorter route – five miles of rogue cycling. I said Auf Wiedersehen to my friend the Drau, turned south, and after a couple of missteps rejoined the CAAR, cycling down the Gail River on a gravel track through the woods.
The woods offered few views of the Gail River, only brief glimpses of its clear, blue-green waters. I rode along searching for a nice bench overlooking the river, the perfect picnic spot, but eventually hunger won out – I found a nice bench but no view. Not soon after, I spotted a small path down to the river, a path worth taking. I was tempted to dip my toes in the clear waters, but Sensible Susan won out and I trudged back up through the sand and pedaled off. Almost immediately I crossed the Gail and left the river behind as I started the climb to Tarvisio.
The Villach Train Station - my one notable sighting in the city
The climb started gradually, but was taxing in the heat. After five miles, I stopped in Arnoldstein and quenched my thirst with water, Fanta and an iced kaffé, coffee with ice cream. The stiffer climb began soon thereafter, The stiffer climb began soon thereafter, starting with a short, tight, 15% switchback then winding through woodlands. Mountain peaks rose high as I gained elevation and without fanfare I was in Italy.
This was a strange group of cows, huddled closely together on a hot summer day. At first I just stopped for a photo, but then realized that there was another cow in their midst, lying down, probably in some type of distress. I waited several minutes for a change in their positioning, but none came. I had no idea what was going on
I arrived in Tarvisio too beat to explore the city, opting for dinner at the hotel restaurant – my first pizza of trip. I turned in early, with a tired body and a heart happy to be back in the mountains.
Tarvisio was the start city for stage 11 of the 2013 Giro d'Italia (Tarvisio to Vajont), and more recently the 2023 stage 20 individual time trial (Tarvisio to Monte Lussari).
