The penultimate day of my tour of Northern Italy – and a ride to remember. I planned to cycle up the Brenta River and was hoping for some relief from the high temperatures of the past few days. It wasn’t a pie-in-the-sky dream but a reasonable hope based on yesterday’s rain and the fact that I was heading back into higher elevations. I would gradually gain elevation all day as made my way up the river, with a kicker at the end to my lodging in Spera. I was out the door at just past 8 am and made my way through the weekend market and across Pont Vecchio, happy to look upriver and see clearing skies with a partial cloud cover.
After crossing Pont Vecchio I turned onto a bike path along the river. At least I thought it was a bike path but in reality it was more of a footpath running along the river’s edge. As I continued on, dodging the scores of walkers and joggers (but no cyclists) I began to wonder how I happened to be here, and how I might get off. The answer to the first question was moot, but my track indicated almost two miles along the path with no exit. It was slow going as I dismounted and carefully picked my way through washouts and large rocks – not the way I wanted to start the day. I finally spotted a steep and narrow path that my map indicated would lead me to a road. It did, and I was soon back atop the bike and rolling north.
Market day on Piazza Libertà - a seemingly common occurrence
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonYou've been there? I did copy/reverse your route between Borgo and BDG but also edited the beginning to start at my hotel. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt and blaming RWGPS. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Susan CarpenterOh, I’m so sorry. That route posted in our journal is the one we intended to ride but quickly turned back when we found it wasn’t a bikeable track. I think we only got a few hundred yards in before backtracking. I didn’t think to correct the route before posting it. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonNo worries - I should have turned back myself. At least I didn’t fall into the river!! Reply to this comment 4 months ago
The road north to Valstagna was busy with folks out for some weekend fun. There were bikes were on the road, on the backs of cars, and parked at cafés at each passing town. And kayaks – lots of kayaks. The Brenta River near Valstagna is popular rafting and kayak spot and there is even a kayak salmon course just north of town. After Valstagna, vehicle traffic slowed considerably and the road was left mostly to cyclists out for a day ride. It was wonderful relaxed cycling and I fondly recalled my first ride on this stretch, on the way from Feltre to Bassano del Grappa in 2021. If possible, it was even more enjoyable today.
About seven miles north of Valstanga, the road ended where it crossed the Brenta River and joined the larger state highway SS47. There were couple of bike-friendly café/bars just before the bridge that spoke to the popularity of this spot for cyclists. The junction was also the start of the car-free section of the Brenta Cycle Path that I would follow up the Valsugana valley. You can imagine my chagrin when I found the path blocked with a Route Closed sign affixed to the barrier.
Coming into Valstagna, stretched out along the Brenta River
The road ended at a large bar and restaurant just before crossing the bridge over the Brenta River. It was a popular turn-around spot for some day riders.
Steve Miller/GrampiesAs a general rule we ignore these signs and barricades. Usually it is not a problem, but every once in a while we have had to backtrack and try a route around. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
As I stood at the at the barricade considering my limited options, a cyclist came down the path toward me. When queried, he revealed that it was possible to cycle through – just some short sections that were under repair. Elated, I slipped past the barrier and headed up the valley. It was a spectacular ride – nothing thrilling or challenging, just a serene pedal through a scenic landscape that left me grinning and thankful for the experiences of the past month.
It was heartening to see other cyclists coming toward me as I started up the closed Brenta cycle path
In addition to dangers of rock sliding down on the path, there was water pouring through the rock wall. Possibly contributing to the overall instability of this section of the route
My original plan had been to book lodging in Borga Valsugana, a town of about 7,000 and a logical overnight on the route between Bassano del Grappa and Trento. However, it was only yesterday that I finally got around yesterday to looking for a room – and there were none available. Not on any booking site nor when trying to directly book. The closest/only place I could find was a direct booking Hotel Spera, located high above the valley in the small town of Spera. The climb was a bit steep but the reward was spectacular views across the valley.
I arrived at Hotel Spera a little past 2 pm, sweaty and hungry. It was one of those classic inns seated on a ridge overlooking the valley, a throwback to the past that may have seen its glory days. I was greeted by a reserved but very kind woman who reminded me of my grandmother, though she was somewhat younger than me. She showed me where to stow Vivien George and, though the restaurant seemed closed, she sat me at a table and gave me a menu. I ordered my usual salad with multiple drinks and then retreated to my room until dinner on the terrace. The menu was limited, the guests were few, but the setting, the food and the friendly service combined to make it one of the best dining experiences of the tour. A perfect ending to a wonderful day.
Scott AndersonWow, you really did end up high on the hillside! Its sure a good thing you got fed once you were up there. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
