To Serpa

March 27, 2024

The unsettled and generally stormy weather here on the Iberian Peninsula have prompted me to pay much closer attention than usual to weather apps. Today’s perusal came with good and bad news. The cloudy but rain-free skies might persist until early afternoon, but cool winds were predicted to be WSW at 25-30 mph, with gusts up to/north of 40 mph! It was a comfort to note that I will benefit from some nice tailwinds as I headed north to Serpa, but strong crosswinds are not a cyclist’s friend.

Wanting to make hay under dry skies, I was checked out and on my way at a few minutes past 9, sorry that I had not been able to fully appreciate the rich history of Mértola. I crossed the Guadiana River and immediately encountered a short stiff climb into the wind – one that had me pushing rather than pedaling. In response to the chill wind I’d felt at breakfast, I had layered up and even donned my leg warmers. It was overkill, and at the first safe place I pulled over for a much needed wardrobe change. Then I was off, experiencing the thrill of tailwinds and the terror of crosswinds.

The 34 miles to Serpa proved to be quite a wild and wooly ride through a beautiful landscape on a quiet road, albeit one in desperate need of resurfacing. The first ten miles were a delight, heading west with a steady tail wind – I was flying. Although the day had started with a solid gray sky, there were moments of sunshine that illuminated the surrounding landscape. It was when I’d stopped to capture such a sunny moment that I met Marcello, a huge fan of Portuguese soccer (futbol) and all things sports. He was friendly and quite talkative, but I didn’t linger as I wanted to put the miles behind me before the winds got stronger and the rains began.

The real adventure began after turning north at Sao Domingos Mine. Though N265 generally followed a northerly route to Serpa, the actual direction varied from north to northwest to northeast with some twisting curves thrown in for my amusement. I was pushed forward, backwards and sideways, sometimes it seemed all directions at once. Adding to the excitement were the occasional super gusts, which often arrived with accompanying cloudbursts. The rain never persisted for long, but always left me scrambling to don my raincoat and put away the electronics.

Despite the challenges, the route itself was wonderful. The traffic was light (thankfully) and the landscape was varied enough to be interesting. There were dozens of times I wanted to pull over for a picture, but felt I had to keep moving – partially out of concern for my safety. About halfway through the ride I did make a brief stop in the tiny village of Vale do Poço where I bought an orange drink and a small pastry from a charming clerk. I left feeling refreshed and replenished and ready for more wind and rain showers.

The wind lessened a bit after passing through Santa Iria, but the traffic increased the last four miles into Serpa. I found my way Hotel Beatriz, a Cycle Blazer favorite, stowed Vivien George in the courtyard and went off in search of a nice meal.

Cattle grazing and windmills churning on a gray and windy day in the Alentejo

Marcello - he insisted on unzipping his jacket for the photo so I could see the logo of his favorite futbol club

Riding atop ridge lines in crosswinds was tricky - these stretches where the road cut through rock provided a nice but brief respite

Though I passed a number of cattle, sheep and horses between Mertola and Serpa, I only stopped this once for pictures! I tried a close-up of a friendly bovine, but could not hold the camera steady in the wind.

My arrival in Serpa coincided with another round of strong wind gusts and rain showers. I quickly found my way to Pedra de Sal, an inviting place with stone walls and an attentive staff that spoke French and English, as well as their native Portuguese. After a sampling of bread, olives and some amazing fresh goat cheese, I dove into my seafood and rice dish, served with a hearty broth that warmed my soul.

The rain had slowed to a drizzle by the time I left the restaurant, so I hurried back to Hotel Beatriz to retrieve my gear from Vivien George, who I noted was now sharing the courtyard with four other bikes. Perhaps I’d meet their owners at breakfast and we could exchange tales of the day's ride. At the moment though, it was time for a hot shower and settling in for the evening.

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Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 181 miles (291 km)

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