March 25, 2024
To Sanlúcar de Guadiana
By any means necessary
Today’s ride to Sanlúcar de Guadiana promised to be a challenge – a combination of distance, rain, and wind. Rain was predicted to end in Huelva around ten this morning, but to start up in Sanlúcar around four. The good news was that even though the day was long on miles (47), winds from the south could give me a nice boost on my way north. However, a change in both direction and wind speed were predicted as the day progressed. In total, the forecast indicated I should get an early start out of Huelva, no matter what was falling from the sky.
Unfortunately, rain and wind seemed to be part of the weather forecast along my planned route for the next week or so – not something I was happy to learn. I considered my options – ranging from heading back to Paris to continuing as planned. Altering the planned route is complicated by the fact that I am scheduled to meet up with Suzanne and Janos in a week’s time. I made quick call to Suzanne to let them know the upcoming weather forecast, and we agreed to talk more later today. In the meantime, I donned my raincoat and booties and headed north.
I departed the hotel in a steady rain, passing through the center of Huelva dressed up for Semana Santa. There were a couple of minor hiccups finding the correct bike lane across Rio Tinto, but once on tract I sailed across the river as the rain turned to drizzle and then stopped completely. What followed was a near sublime ride along a series of bike lanes that wound through salt marshes, piney woods and into the city of Aljaraque. It was a marked contrast to yesterday’s slog, and was greatly appreciated.
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Once through Aljaraque, I picked up a small rural road and was feeling quite happy, though I did note that RWGPS indicated a short-ish unpaved stretch ahead. Sure enough, I soon found myself on a wide gravel road, one that would be easily navigable in dry conditions but was a bit slippery today. I managed to stay in the saddle, and slowly made my way through a peacefully wooded landscape with nary a sole in sight, save one man who was walking and carrying an umbrella. After a couple of miles, I came to a junction – decision time. A graveled road ran at right angles to my route, whereas my track ahead seemed to deteriorate into a path. The gravel surface would be easier and faster, but would add a few miles to an already long day. I didn’t hesitate long – the gravel road it was. Another three miles wonderful miles of quiet woodland and I was back on pavement, turning north in the direction of Cartaya.
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The decision to detour to Cartaya and thereby increase the days mileage was made with the hope that southerly winds would help propel me on my way north. Unfortunately, the wind direction had shifted to northwesterly, a head and crosswind. Adding to the challenge was the fact that I was now on two-lane highways – with more traffic. Certainly a combination outside my comfort zone. I stopped for a snack at a gas station outside Cartaya, and braced myself for the next 35 miles. I stopped rarely for pictures, snapping just a few when I pulled over for a little rest. For some (many) reason, I was really getting beat down by the ride. My lack of preparedness was one factor, but I think the wind and distance took a very real mental toll. I began to doubt if I could make it to Sanlúcar, and my short-term goal was to just to reach Villanueva de los Castillejos.
I arrived in Villanueva physically and mentally spent. After a brief rest in the center of the round-about, I pulled into a Respol station, bought a coke, and sat against a wall to eat my sandwich, sheltered from the wind. As my mind slowly began to focus, I spotted a somewhat run-down motel across the street. Perhaps I should just spend the night here, I thought, and tack the extra 15 miles to Sanlúcar onto tomorrow’s ride. After all, it was only 23 miles from Sanlúcar to Mertola, where I was booked the following night. But it would not be an easy ride, and I wanted to arrive in Mertola early enough to explore the town a bit. Also, I would have to eat the cost of my AirBnB in Sanlúcar.
Finally, I went back into the gas station and inquired about a taxi to Sanlúcar. The Respol worker, a small wizened man, seemed not to fully understand, but a friendly customer immediately pitched in to help. After much back and forth, they located the name of a taxi company and arranged transport for me and Vivien George to Sanlùcar – all for 30€. By the time the taxi arrived, the sun had begun to poke through the clouds. As we traveled west to El Granado and then south to Sanlùcar, I remembered why I had routed myself through this amazing landscape. I felt some regret at not completing the ride, but also great relief in realizing that I had reached my limit in Villanueva, and had acted on it.
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8 months ago
Sanlúcar de Guadiana lies on The Guadiana River, which forms the border between Spain and Portugal - Sanlúcar sits on the east bank of the river almost directly across from Alcoutim, Portugal. There is no bridge between the two towns, only a small ferry that transports people, pets, and bikes. After getting cleaned up, my top two priorities were to check out the ferry, and buy some groceries. Third on the list was to explore the town. The ferry schedule was posted at the dock, I picked up some granola and yogurt for dinner/breakfast, and then had a nice walk about town. The sun continued to poke through the clouds, illuminating this white washed town in a late afternoon glow. Though disappointed at not completing the days route, I was at peace with myself and very glad to be here. Portugal, here I come!
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Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 123 miles (198 km)
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